Champion Radiators for the IDI

[vegas39]

Well, my new Champion 4 row MC 1165 radiator is already already leaking!
It is leaking at 4 or 5 of the lower core joints at the lower tank on the driver's side. This does not make me happy! Damn Chinese radiators. I am about ready to run down to the parts store and buy a plastic tanked radiator, as it really can't be any worse. Ugh - bad way to start the year, but if this is the worst that happens to me this year, the year will have been a good one. Have to keep things in perspective.

I bought my 4 row in July and it sprung a leak several days ago. I ordered another 4 row and installed it last Friday. Not exactly sure where mine was leaking from, haven't really looked at it closely yet.
Pretty aggrevating but at least they're quick and easy to change out

 

[tbrumm]

I bought my 4 row in July and it sprung a leak several days ago. I ordered another 4 row and installed it last Friday. Not exactly sure where mine was leaking from, haven't really looked at it closely yet.
Pretty aggrevating but at least they're quick and easy to change out

I have contacted the seller and we will see how fast Champion can get new one too me. You are right, as far as radiators go, these are fairly easy to change out. I may put my leaking 3 row back in for now. It is not leaking as bad as this four row is now.

 

[vegas39]

I have contacted the seller and we will see how fast Champion can get new one too me. You are right, as far as radiators go, these are fairly easy to change out. I may put my leaking 3 row back in for now. It is not leaking as bad as this four row is now.

I still have the original radiator, in decent shape. If this new champion goes, I'll have to put the original back in.
I should have invested in one of those Rodney Red units but kinda pricey.

 

[tbrumm]

I have removed the leaking 4 row Champion form the truck, and the warranty replacement is supposed to be here today. Before I took the leaker out, I took a a couple of pics and you can see the pink Fleetcharge coolant seeping out at the core/tank joints. The leak i this bad just from me squeezing the upper hose with my hand.

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[Koch13351]

My 3 row champion radiator is leaking from the same place - tube to header. A friend of mine had a champion in his ‘90 F-350 with a 460 and his also ended up leaking. From what we have gathered from our observations, since the radiator is bolted directly to the core support, we think the core support is flexing more than the radiator can handle. We both have installed polyurethane body mounts and those are significantly more rigid than the stock ones, effectively transferring frame flex through the core support rather than letting it float.
I’m still willing, and planning, to get another Champion radiator here soon. The 4 row, of course. I’m going to take a shot at isolating the radiator from the support by using rubber “vibration” isolator studs. Hopefully they’ll provide enough flex and be the solution to the only real problem these radiators seem to have.


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[Thewespaul]

My 3 row champion radiator is leaking from the same place - tube to header. A friend of mine had a champion in his ‘90 F-350 with a 460 and his also ended up leaking. From what we have gathered from our observations, since the radiator is bolted directly to the core support, we think the core support is flexing more than the radiator can handle. We both have installed polyurethane body mounts and those are significantly more rigid than the stock ones, effectively transferring frame flex through the core support rather than letting it float.
I’m still willing, and planning, to get another Champion radiator here soon. The 4 row, of course. I’m going to take a shot at isolating the radiator from the support by using rubber “vibration” isolator studs. Hopefully they’ll provide enough flex and be the solution to the only real problem these radiators seem to have.


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You know I think you’re on to something there. Mine has lasted over 100k miles and I still have the stock body mounts. Let us know how the isolator idea works for ya

 

[Nick382]

And I thought I had bad luck; I was actually getting ready to purchase one of the Champion radiators. Mainly because the alternative was plastic tanked or $600+ Copper / brass radiator manufactured by Thermal Solutions. CCP seems to offer a copper / brass replacement as well.

I'm hopefully out of the woods with that issue, but was going to order the 4 row MC1165 from Jeg's. They happened to have them in stock, and are about an hour from me.

Edit: correct part number.

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[tbrumm]

From what we have gathered from our observations, since the radiator is bolted directly to the core support, we think the core support is flexing more than the radiator can handle.

This thought had occurred to me as well - these radiators cannot stand much flex. We all have seen core supports with the stress cracks in them. Fortunately, the core support in my CCLB truck does not have any cracks, and I still have the stock rubber body mounts. With the thought of somewhat isolating the radiator from the core support, I purchased some rubber "baler belting" from a local farm supply store. This is the corded rubber belting used on the round balers and is about 4 inches wide by about 3/16" think. I cut 1-1/2" wide strips of this and doubled them up and place them between the radiator mounting flanges and flanges on the core support. I am not sure it will help much, as the radiator is still bolted to the flanges, and still sits on those pins, but it was all I could come up with quickly. The replacement radiator is back in the truck so we will see if this one lasts longer.

 

[StBernardnot]

I have used that radiator shop in Richland Center, Wi. with no regrets. I've since moved to Iowa so I'm not even sure it's open anymore.

 

[Koch13351]

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These are the type of isolators I’m intending on using. Vulcanized stud plate on either side so they will truly isolate the radiator from the core support. Just need to figure what width and length will work out the best as far as flexibility and keeping the radiator a safe distance from the fan. And I’m thinking 5/16”-18 studs will be good and stout.


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[Nick382]

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These are the type of isolators I’m intending on using. Vulcanized stud plate on either side so they will truly isolate the radiator from the core support. Just need to figure what width and length will work out the best as far as flexibility and keeping the radiator a safe distance from the fan. And I’m thinking 5/16”-18 studs will be good and stout.


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I saw those while I was googling for vibration resistant fasteners. I can see why several manufacturers use bushings to mount these components versus rigid mounting with hardware.

At 2 dollars a piece, I think it's worth a shot!
https://www.mcmaster.com/#vibration-isolators/=1b2gbgf

I just wonder if reinforcement of the core support is the problem, while this is a symptom. Haven't looked deeply into it, just speculating.




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[79jasper]

What would happen if everyone started switching to the 95+ PSD degas system. Lol
Better mounting. It's not solid, but uses isolators.
Btw, a few have.
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[tbrumm]

What would happen if everyone started switching to the 95+ PSD degas system. Lol
Better mounting. It's not solid, but uses isolators.
Btw, a few have.
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That thought has also crossed my mind. I am actually considering going with one of the aluminum radiators with plastic tanks if this new radiator leaks. The ones I have seen are all two row cores though, and I just don't think that will cut it. How many rows do the PSD radiator cores have?

 

[pelky350]

How long did you have it??

 

[79jasper]

Well mine is the IDI radiator. Lol
But many use this one. https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-7-3l-powerstroke-aluminum-radiator-95-97.html

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