Champion radiator

6.9idi_sam

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Well my 6.9 has been leaking a tiny puddle of anti-freeze when I plugged it in. It's up front buy the radiator. My bottom hose has some weathering cracks and looks wet. Then I notcied up top there was a small Seam it was leaking out of. Checked my freeze plug looked fine and haven't seen any coolant buy it. Won't be running the truck till the radiator and hoses are changed. I was able to find a 4 row champion radiator to.
 

Hydro-idi

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Wow a 4 row? Send us a link so we can check it out. Here's a link to the one I recently purchased and installed. It has 14-16 cooling fins per inch which is what I was looking for. I am also extremely pleased with how it was built. Even though it was made in China, it has the build quality of something produced in the good ole USA. Just make sure you chuck the radiator cap it comes with and buy a 13psi stant cap or OEM. It's also more than adequate to cool a 6.9/7.3 idi.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1994-3...Parts_Accessories&hash=item23481f343d&vxp=mtr
 

6.9idi_sam

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http://m.ebay.com/itm/161621984507 Yeah I read that the caps they come with our junk. They are a 16lb. I hope my freeze plug is okay it worrys me. my truck has only a 110k and im sure the hoses are the original. The top hose says ford Moto craft still. And the radiator has paint chips all over it. But my coolants very clean looking.
 

Hydro-idi

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http://m.ebay.com/itm/161621984507 Yeah I read that the caps they come with our junk. They are a 16lb. I hope my freeze plug is okay it worrys me. my truck has only a 110k and im sure the hoses are the original. The top hose says ford Moto craft still. And the radiator has paint chips all over it. But my coolants very clean looking.

;Sweet. Nice to know they make a 4 row for our rigs. What's going on with your freeze plugs?
 

6.9idi_sam

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I don't think anything my whole engines covered in oil. Sat for a while so it leaks oil a little. The only antifreeze spot was small and up front under the radiator
 

Hydro-idi

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A good way to help pinpoint a hard to find leak is to purchase that UV antifreeze dye. Your local auto parts store will carry it.
 

icanfixall

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Might want to use an inspection mirror and look under the water pump shaft for a leak at the weep hole. If seen there its a seal gone bad.
 

riotwarrior

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I'd be cautious of a four row as it's called, it could be like most the double or triple core with 4 core cooling capable...I'd like to see core tube size and that it is truly a 4 core!
 

ADV

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I just put a champion 4 core radiator in my truck Saturday. Very nice looking radiator.
 
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I'd be cautious of a four row as it's called, it could be like most the double or triple core with 4 core cooling capable...I'd like to see core tube size and that it is truly a 4 core!

Looks legit.

4-Row: http://www.championradiators.com/product/MC1165

3-Row: http://www.championradiators.com/product/CC1165

Note the only dimensional difference between the two is the core thickness (extra .75"). I'm definitely keeping my eye on this. I have the 3-row, and while it's adequate, I still feel like the truck gets hotter than it should hauling up grades with the fairly minimal loads I run. With just a couple sportbikes and gear, I can get into the 220s no problem running up grades. I have a new Motorcraft pump, new Motorcraft thermostat (lowered idling temp from 205° to 195°), coolant, hoses, etc. I even have a new Motorcraft fan clutch, but it never engages.

I will say this, though. Champion must clearly be listening, because this product didn't exist when I put mine in a few years back. Nice to see someone give our old trucks some attention by having new offerings, as opposed to chasing the last known copies of parts all over the web.

Mike
 
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vegas39

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Looks legit.

4-Row: http://www.championradiators.com/product/MC1165

3-Row: http://www.championradiators.com/product/CC1165

Note the only dimensional different between the two is the core thickness (extra .75"). I'm definitely keeping my eye on this. I have the 3-row, and while it's adequate, I still feel like the truck gets hotter than it should hauling up grades with the fairly minimal loads I run. With just a couple sportbikes and gear, I can get into the 220s no problem running up grades. I have a new Motorcraft pump, new Motorcraft thermostat (lowered idling temp from 205° to 195°), coolant, hoses, etc. I even have a new Motorcraft fan clutch, but it never engages.

I will say this, though. Champion must clearly be listening, because this product didn't exist when I put mine in a few years back. Nice to see someone give our old trucks some attention by having new offerings, as opposed to chasing the last known copies of parts all over the web.

Mike



Timing makes a difference also. I noticed a nice drop in temps after retarding a little. It's nice to open the hood and have people say, "look at that awesome radiator!" I get that a lot with mine.
 

Hydro-idi

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Looks legit.

4-Row: http://www.championradiators.com/product/MC1165

3-Row: http://www.championradiators.com/product/CC1165

Note the only dimensional different between the two is the core thickness (extra .75"). I'm definitely keeping my eye on this. I have the 3-row, and while it's adequate, I still feel like the truck gets hotter than it should hauling up grades with the fairly minimal loads I run. With just a couple sportbikes and gear, I can get into the 220s no problem running up grades. I have a new Motorcraft pump, new Motorcraft thermostat (lowered idling temp from 205° to 195°), coolant, hoses, etc. I even have a new Motorcraft fan clutch, but it never engages.

I will say this, though. Champion must clearly be listening, because this product didn't exist when I put mine in a few years back. Nice to see someone give our old trucks some attention by having new offerings, as opposed to chasing the last known copies of parts all over the web.

Mike

Yes it does seem legit. Wish I saw this before ordering and installing my 3 row. More is always better ;Sweet. However, I still feel that the 3 row champion rad is more than capable of cooling these engines. Many members are running them and towing heavy with them with controlled engine temps. I feel like you have a problem somewhere in your cooling system. Maybe you need to do a proper flush using VC9. This product works extremely well at removing rust/scale from system. I'm also starting to think your fan clutch is the culprit. Do you have the bottom rad hose with the spring in it? Your engine shouldn't heat up hauling light loads like you are describing. But running 220 degrees F won't hurt anything.
 

icanfixall

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Whiteboy... Try removing your Ford motorcraft fan clutch and mdifying the thermal spring. Lots has been discussed about doing this here. I think typ4 is the member that explains best how its done. I recall removing the spring. Straightening the bend out and moving the new bend closer to the end of the spring. Where that spring fits the small slotted shaft coming out of the clutch is the valve stem. As the spring heats up it turns and closes the internal valve so the clutch locks up at a lower temp. Many new factory fan clutches lock up at as high as 420 degrees.:eek: Thats 2 degrees lower than the over temp dash lite comes on and pegs the dash gauge telling you the engine is hot.. Usually too hot to save too.
 
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