Calling all WVO users, your feedback is appreciated.

mjs2011

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Hey everyone,

As some of you may remember from a few of my previous posts, I've been working on WVO fuel controller for the past year using a touch screen and an arduino. I'm still in the prototyping stage, but am getting ready to move forward and develop a few test units. For those of you who currently use WVO or think you may in the near future, I'd really appreciate your feedback.

Take a look at the following video and let me know what you think of the different features I have on the controller. Theres also a link to a survey in the video description if you are really feeling ambitious.

https://youtu.be/MaTyD5ssNyc

Thanks for your time.
 

laserjock

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Neat! I admire your ingenuity. Just a few suggestions that you can take or leave. If you are prone to forgetting the purge, I think it's not too hard to add a gps module to purge when you get close to home. If you drive a regular route it would be almost seamless. If you are running e pumps, you could always have it switch and run the pumps with the engine (key) off. It would purge everything up to the fuel filter I think. Not sure what it would do for purging ip. Another option is tying the fss to the controller so it can't shut down until it purges. Yes, it's maybe a safety issue unless you use a couple other switches for either a hard kill or tie into something that would indicate an emergency condition (no brakes, stuck throttle etc.). Hard kill on the dash would be simplest way around it though.
 

mjs2011

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Neat! I admire your ingenuity. Just a few suggestions that you can take or leave. If you are prone to forgetting the purge, I think it's not too hard to add a gps module to purge when you get close to home. If you drive a regular route it would be almost seamless. If you are running e pumps, you could always have it switch and run the pumps with the engine (key) off. It would purge everything up to the fuel filter I think. Not sure what it would do for purging ip. Another option is tying the fss to the controller so it can't shut down until it purges. Yes, it's maybe a safety issue unless you use a couple other switches for either a hard kill or tie into something that would indicate an emergency condition (no brakes, stuck throttle etc.). Hard kill on the dash would be simplest way around it though.
I like the idea of thing into the FSS, that would be pretty simple to do. Gps might be sorta iffy since the routes I take on oil are generally different every time.

I'm trying to keep the controller as "universal" as possible, so I try not to design too much around the IDI in particular. I hope to build a few more controllers for my dad's various vehicles, a Mercedes 300D and a Chevy luv. Keeping things universal simplifies the install into each of those vehicle.

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riotwarrior

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This is great as I am slowly moving to WMO and may e WVO too.

The question I ha e is what is max duration for purge? How did you come up with 30 seconds as long enough to actually purge?

Whats the cost of the unit.

Can it be made to shut down w truck?
 

mjs2011

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This is great as I am slowly moving to WMO and may e WVO too.

The question I ha e is what is max duration for purge? How did you come up with 30 seconds as long enough to actually purge?

Whats the cost of the unit.

Can it be made to shut down w truck?
Max duration of purge is as high as you want to set it, within the limits of the timer variable on the controller (something way longer than you'd ever need to go.)

For my system, I use a 30 second purge as I've determined 30 seconds is the time needed at able to flush all the wvo out of my fuel system and revert back to diesel safely. Depending on fuel plumbing, you may need a longer purge, which can be changed in settings.

I don't know a cost that I have in mind yet, I've still gotta source some components.

As for wiring it in to control shutdown of the vehicle, I could do that, and it wouldn't be super difficult. Just drive the FSS for a set duration, but I'd like to keep my controller as universal as possible so it will be compatible with the vehicles my father has converted as well.

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MTKirk

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Hey everyone,

As some of you may remember from a few of my previous posts, I've been working on WVO fuel controller for the past year using a touch screen and an arduino. I'm still in the prototyping stage, but am getting ready to move forward and develop a few test units. For those of you who currently use WVO or think you may in the near future, I'd really appreciate your feedback.

Take a look at the following video and let me know what you think of the different features I have on the controller. Theres also a link to a survey in the video description if you are really feeling ambitious.

https://youtu.be/MaTyD5ssNyc

Thanks for your time.

My biggest problem with it is the same problem I have with the greasecar controller in my Benz, I CAN"T READ IT WITHOUT MY GLASSES! With standard needle gauges I can at least infer what is going on.

I have rigged a auto-on veg system with a bi-metal disc that runs a relay when post IP pump temps hit 140 (status indicated by led). I control electric heater (and auxiliary water pump) function with an adjustable electric fan controller (status indicated by led). I have an adjustable purge time controlled with one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-LED-...Switch-Relay-Module-For-Arduino-/151739545825 (status indicated by led).

I don't like auto function on my IDI, if the veg comes on at the wrong time you will destroy your injection pump, so normally don't use the auto on function. I do use the auto purge every time though. If you are prone to forgetting, you could use a turbo timer that will keep your truck running until the purge time is complete. On the rare occasion I forget, I just sit in the vehicle and let it idle until the countdown is done (as shown by an led indicator light).
 

mjs2011

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My biggest problem with it is the same problem I have with the greasecar controller in my Benz, I CAN"T READ IT WITHOUT MY GLASSES! With standard needle gauges I can at least infer what is going on.

I have rigged a auto-on veg system with a bi-metal disc that runs a relay when post IP pump temps hit 140 (status indicated by led). I control electric heater (and auxiliary water pump) function with an adjustable electric fan controller (status indicated by led). I have an adjustable purge time controlled with one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-LED-...Switch-Relay-Module-For-Arduino-/151739545825 (status indicated by led).

I don't like auto function on my IDI, if the veg comes on at the wrong time you will destroy your injection pump, so normally don't use the auto on function. I do use the auto purge every time though. If you are prone to forgetting, you could use a turbo timer that will keep your truck running until the purge time is complete. On the rare occasion I forget, I just sit in the vehicle and let it idle until the countdown is done (as shown by an led indicator light).
Yeah I've heard that before with regards to my EGT and it being digital and not a dial. I could add an option to view sensor data as either digital or as dials.

What else do you think about your copilot? My dad has one in his 300D as well. He likes it just fine, but I wanted to improve upon it.

As far as the auto switch goes, I only use it in a select few summer months when I know my fuel is warm. It can be very dangerous in the winter.

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laserjock

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You can do dials or bar charts but color is a good option for seeing impaired. Use several colors not just green yellow red kinda thing. Have it change shades every 50 degrees maybe after you get over 700? Just a thought.
 

MTKirk

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Yeah I've heard that before with regards to my EGT and it being digital and not a dial. I could add an option to view sensor data as either digital or as dials.

What else do you think about your copilot? My dad has one in his 300D as well. He likes it just fine, but I wanted to improve upon it.

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Honestly I don't like the co-pilot, or anything else from Greasecar. It all works- but, the custom setup I put on my truck has more functionality, using higher quality components, at a significantly lower cost. The worst part of the co-pilot is the weak display, also the electric heater control is limited to when the system is on veg (meaning you can't pre-heat your veg system while on diesel). MB diesels with inline Bosch injection pumps work fine with greasecar kits because they will work with damn near anything, that Injection pump could pump butter and bacon grease. The Stanadyne rotary is a completely different and far more delicate piece of engineering.
 
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mjs2011

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Honestly I don't like the co-pilot, or anything else from Greasecar. It all works- but, the custom setup I put on my truck has more functionality, using higher quality components, at a significantly lower cost. The worst part of the co-pilot is the weak display, also the electric heater control is limited to when the system is on veg (meaning you can't pre-heat your veg system while on diesel. MB diesels with inline Bosch injection pumps work fine with greasecar kits because they will work with damn near anything, that Injection pump could pump butter and bacon grease. The Stanadyne rotary is a completely different and far more delicate piece of engineering.

That's exactly why I started my project. I wanted more customization, and the arduino is an empty slate. I can make it do anything I so choose...

Sounds like I should put some thought into the electric heater control too. I could make it thermostatic so it starts heating at a temp lower than when I switch to vegetable oil. This way I could preheat my fuel filter for a set time.

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MTKirk

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That's exactly why I started my project. I wanted more customization, and the arduino is an empty slate. I can make it do anything I so choose...

Sounds like I should put some thought into the electric heater control too. I could make it thermostatic so it starts heating at a temp lower than when I switch to vegetable oil. This way I could preheat my fuel filter for a set time.

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Exactly, I have mine setup with a probe type fan controller so it is on until fuel temps reach 185, then turns off until fuel temp lowers to 160. This is on diesel or veg. I don't worry about getting my diesel too hot because it is always at least B3, and if I want to make an extended run on diesel I have a manual override to switch all the heaters off.
 

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Max duration of purge is as high as you want to set it, within the limits of the timer variable on the controller (something way longer than you'd ever need to go.)

For my system, I use a 30 second purge as I've determined 30 seconds is the time needed at able to flush all the wvo out of my fuel system and revert back to diesel safely. Depending on fuel plumbing, you may need a longer purge, which can be changed in settings.

I don't know a cost that I have in mind yet, I've still gotta source some components.

As for wiring it in to control shutdown of the vehicle, I could do that, and it wouldn't be super difficult. Just drive the FSS for a set duration, but I'd like to keep my controller as universal as possible so it will be compatible with the vehicles my father has converted as well.

Sent from my LG-VS985 using Tapatalk

I meant that wheb turn off truck controler shuts off...directly opposite to your current setup
 

mjs2011

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I meant that wheb turn off truck controler shuts off...directly opposite to your current setup
Oh yeah, it does shut down with the truck. I have it on a timer so it stays on for about 30 seconds after I shut off the truck. This way, I can still see my sensors after I power off, and I can hear my pump running if I forgot to purge.

After about 30 seconds of the truck being off, the controller shuts off on its own. The next time you turn the key, it comes back on again.

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AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Could you make it with a remote display so you could mount the controller up under the dash and the display elsewhere?

Looks really slick and would work well for any alternative fuel (although wmo isnt nearly as picky... its wise to have the engine at temp before switching).
 

mjs2011

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Could you make it with a remote display so you could mount the controller up under the dash and the display elsewhere?

Looks really slick and would work well for any alternative fuel (although wmo isnt nearly as picky... its wise to have the engine at temp before switching).
I do intend to move the "guts" of the system, like the mosfets, voltage dividers, thermocouple amplifiers, etc. To a separate enclosure that can be mounted under the dash. The difficult part about that is it requires either several wires to run between the screen and the control box, or serial communication and two arduinos, which would only require 4 wires between the two, so standard USB would work, but the code would become much more complex.

I'm still weighing my options there on how to best separate the guts from the screen.

Just out of curiosity, what about it makes you think they should be separated? Is it just aesthetics of the big box? Or the multiple wires that are running between the two? Personally, I dislike both the bulk and the mess of wires, but I'm curious to hear what others think.

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