>>> C.B.ANTENNA MOUNTING <<<

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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What experiences have anyone had with either antenna quick-disconnects or 90* fold-overs ??

Thinking it terms of protecting my brand-new most-expensive-antenna-I ever-owned Wilson 500, in the event I am ever in a low-clearance situation, or down some lazy chain-saw-less farmers tree-limb shrouded lane, I have been sort of considering adding either a quick-dis-connect or a 90* fold-over.

However, considering a quick-dis-connect and me living in the ****-head thieving capitol, I figure if I can easily remove the antenna, then any other old thief or un-trustworthy CBer could do so as well.

Considering a fold-over, of the many brands I looked at, every last review made mention of how the fold-over allowed a bit of loose motion, an eighth-inch or so, at the joint, that telegraphed to quite a bit of flop at the top.

Let alone the annoying flopping around, I figure all this constant wiggling would soon cause something to fatigue and break, letting my nice shiny antenna go clattering down the side of the trailer.

Maybe my best solution is to just use a wrench and remove the mast if and when I am ever faced with an antenna damaging situation. :dunno


What have you guys done to address the situation ??

Thanks. :)
 

riotwarrior

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I use a 102" whip and a big ass spring and do not sweat it....never had a problem....just saying...
 

kc0stp

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Mag mounts and rembering where/roughly how high is all Ive ever done (for the trucks) for stuff like a parking garage I just always lift up the mag mount and lay it down and call it good (so far every truck has had a shell so laid base in gap between shell and cab) not 100% sure what Im going to do for the IDI yet though.

If it matters Ive never had a CB just 2 meter/40CM ham radio antennas (same idea over much longer distances)
 

Fordsandguns

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When I was running my wilson it was on a mustang so I didn't have the worry about the trees like you on a truck. Mine was a magnet mount and worked well on the deck lid.
Mine was about a five foot whip with the coil at the base. Is yours the type with the coil in the middle with a shorter whip?
If yours has the coil at the base I don't see you having much problem unless you hit the trees hard. That whip is flexible enough to handle it unless you are at speed. Or maybe a really low branch catches the coil.
 

Fordsandguns

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This is mine at the base and how it detaches from the mount. It just unscrews to come apart.
 

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The Warden

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I've never tried either setup myself, but my dad has tried both quick-disconnects and 90 degree fold-overs and had endless grounding problems....which is why I've avoided the setups.

I did a 102" antenna with a spring mount, mounted to the lumber rack that used to be on my truck...I think due to it being mounted to the rack and because of the length of my coax cable, my SWR was quite high and I'm not sure what my range was. In addition, the tip was so high that I had to keep it tied down to keep from hitting the undersides of overpasses...

I'm honestly not sure if I'll do a CB antenna again, but if I do, I'll probably do a single 4' whip mounted on a mirror bracket with a spring...
 

88beast

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do not use quick disconnects
ive had a few open up on me and almost drop the antenna
the mag moount shown above is what i have on the civic and thats great for clearence but on my truck if i dont have room i dont go. again parking garage is already out of the question.
if i need to pull into a shop i willl take it off i keep an adjustable with anyway for emergencys
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I also ordered a HD stainless barrel-spring that will be at the bottom of the mast.

I am thinking I will fix a purpose-made length of parachute cord with a couple snaps, such that I can simply tether the antenna down when need arises.



On a different subject, I bought a big box-full of various CB gear at a swap-meet.

>>> I LOVE SWAP MEETS <<<

Among the many goodies that were in the box, I found a signal amplifier; GOLDEN EAGLE 300; BI-LINEAR AMPLIFIER

I googled it and found very little information.

I haven't tried it connected to anything; but, when I very-momentarily powered it up with a test-lead, all the lights lit up.

What have I got and how much extra punch is this thing gonna have ?? :dunno

Thanks. :)
 

gandalf

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On a quick Google... What you have may be a bi-linear amp from Browning. Only a possibility. Take a look at this web page to find more.

Browning Labs


Hope this is the right outfit.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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On a quick Google... What you have may be a bi-linear amp from Browning. Only a possibility. Take a look at this web page to find more.

Browning Labs


Hope this is the right outfit.


Thanks so much.

That is about as likely an origin for the swap-meet find as anything I have found yet.

I plan to join those forums and maybe find some insight.

Many thanks.




Sort of along the same lines, is there a similar device available that will give one's output just a little bit more punch; nothing radical, just something that will provide a few more miles of range ??


Thanks. :)
 

gandalf

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I'm far from being an expert on these things, but it's my understanding that a bi-linear amp will amplify what comes in AND what and goes out. Somebody with more radio experience will come along and clarify this, I'm sure.
 

Fordsandguns

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Yep, that's what it does is amplify your output. The receive side should be able to be turned on or off independently of the transmit side. Being that it says 300 it should be a 300 watt output give or take a few watts.
Normally a radio and amp are tuned together to get the best output, but if it works it will be a huge jump over your stock radio even without the tuning.
I don't know what you gave for it but around here they usually go for around $1 per watt.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I don't know what you gave for it but around here they usually go for around $1 per watt.


I gave five-bucks for the whole box-full of stuff.

I got three working PA-speakers, three working ext.-speakers (one no bigger than a pack of cigarettes), several complete co-ax cables, several HD-aluminum mirror-mounts (complete with studs), dozens of various radio mounting brackets, power cables, mic-holders, a couple of stainless barrel springs (which I have already used on some of the other trucks, hence me having to pay nearly twenty-bucks for another), a complete mag-mount antenna of unknown heritage, the bi-linear amp, other items too numerous to mention, several cigarette butts, numerous candy wrappers, some stringy-headed woman's hair-brush complete with plenty of hair, and a dried-up dead mouse --- tail and all.

Did I get a bargain ??
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Yep, that's what it does is amplify your output. The receive side should be able to be turned on or off independently of the transmit side. Being that it says 300 it should be a 300 watt output give or take a few watts.
Normally a radio and amp are tuned together to get the best output, but if it works it will be a huge jump over your stock radio even without the tuning.


There are three indicator-lights --- RP --- RF --- ON --- :dunno

Two rocker-switches --- RP --- ON --- :dunno

I assume the ON means the unit is ON; what are the other lights and switches ??


If there is an internal defect to this unit, seeing as how the only connection to the radio is the coax, is there any danger of it damaging my radio when I hook it up for a test ??


Once it is hooked up and seems to work, how do I know if it is doing it's job --- send the wife over in the next county and see if she can hear me ?? :dunno


How is this "tuning" done ??


Thanks. :)

 

Fordsandguns

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I haven't seen any marked RP or RF. Usually they have a power switch for the transmitter side and another marked receive for boosting the incoming signals.
You normally won't use the receive side unless you are talking to some one a long distance out.
As long as you hook it up right it shouldn't cause any damage. nothing is guaranteed though.
The tuning is usually done hooked up to a power and modulation meter and the power output of the radio is adjusted to get the most out of the amp. Sometime a radio is turned down and other times turned up to properly drive the amp. Sometimes that leaves you with a radio that needs the amp all the time and it is turned down so far to "match" the amp.
Sometimes it will be almost right at the stock setting too. Just depends on the radio and amp.

As far ans making sure it is working, having her a few miles away and turning it on should work. There should be a notable difference in you volume and how far you move the signal meter on her radio. 300 watts is about the norm that is seen here but is a considerable jump over the stock 4 or 7 watts so if it's working anywhere near that output she will notice. You can also try out the receive while she is talking to you. If it's working you should hear the boost.
Just don't use the receive side while there is a radio real close.
 
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