bud wheels

[bennersaw]

I have an 89 f350 4x4 d60 front end. I have another set of rims that are hub piloted, but the ones on the truck don't appear to be hub piloted. is there such a thing as stud piloted? if so will the hub piloted rims work?

hope this thread is ok in this forum, it is an idi...

 

[Ruger_556]

I have an 89 f350 4x4 d60 front end. I have another set of rims that are hub piloted, but the ones on the truck don't appear to be hub piloted. is there such a thing as stud piloted? if so will the hub piloted rims work?

hope this thread is ok in this forum, it is an idi...

Yeah, most stock wheels are hub piloted and most aftermarket wheels are stud pilot so that you can use a center cap. As long as the bolt holes in the wheels are chamfered for the nuts should be fine. Pics are a must though... Can't be sure without seeing.

My bad, didn't realize it was a dually type front... Umm, those are usually hub pilot with the washer/nut bud set up so I'm not sure what you got going on there.

 

[bennersaw]

well i hope a do a better job with these pics, but this setup just doesn't seem right to me. Aren't these style rims supposed to have tension rings? The truck is new to me so I really dont know whats going on... Any ideas?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Your attachments are invalid. Try and upload the pic's again. Then preview your post to see if they are valid.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Not sure what you are asking. The lug nuts and wheels look like they are meant for hub registered wheels. Tension rings have nothing to do with how the wheels are held. I have not seen any split rims in a long time, even on big rigs.

 

[bennersaw]

well, I am used to hub centered rims, dont know much about other style rims. this rim has tapered holes like it needs tapered lug nuts to be centered. when i took the lug nuts off, there was nothing to hold the rim centered on the hub, and its loose on the studs. I removed the rim on the other side and it had a regular rim with no tapering on the holes. however, it was tight on the studs. i had to tap it to get it off. The front end has a wobble going down the road, and I think its this rim not being centered correctly.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You have the right lugnuts but the wrong wheels. At least one of your wheels is wrong. What you have shown in the last picture is also known as a "coined" wheel - Ford used them till late '70s IIRC, Dodge kept them around till late '80s and possibly early '90s. The clamp rings or whatever they are called are a GM thing, their wheels are flat like Ford's but instead of using washered nuts like Ford did they stuck the rings on top of the wheels and used plain ole cone nuts to hold the whole sandwich in place. You should be using the flat wheels with these washered lugnuts you have pictured.

What concerns me with your setup is that your hubs do not seem to have a lip to provide piloting for the flat-face wheels you should be running... Are those the actual hubs? I mean they're not some adapters or anything, are they? Something ain't quite right here and it ain't just your one coined wheel.

 

[bennersaw]

I suppose it could be some kind of adapters? you are right there is no lip for centering which is what got me confused. the other side has the flat wheel on it. but the holes fit tight on the studs. i have some regular flat rims and tires that fit on the same way, tight around the studs. i put them on and the truck goes nice down the road now. no wobble at any speed... any such thing as wheels that are centered by the studs themselves?

 

[Ruger_556]

I suppose it could be some kind of adapters? you are right there is no lip for centering which is what got me confused. the other side has the flat wheel on it. but the holes fit tight on the studs. i have some regular flat rims and tires that fit on the same way, tight around the studs. i put them on and the truck goes nice down the road now. no wobble at any speed... any such thing as wheels that are centered by the studs themselves?

Yeah, if the nut and hole in the wheel are tapered they are "lug" centered (The studs are what keep the wheel centered).

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I suppose it could be some kind of adapters? you are right there is no lip for centering which is what got me confused. the other side has the flat wheel on it. but the holes fit tight on the studs. i have some regular flat rims and tires that fit on the same way, tight around the studs. i put them on and the truck goes nice down the road now. no wobble at any speed... any such thing as wheels that are centered by the studs themselves?

What you got is a Dodge wheel then, some of them had 5/8" studs so when you install it on a Ford hub with 9/16" studs it will flop all over the place.

And no, to my knowledge there are no Ford truck wheels that are flat and pilot on the studs only - the ones that are flat pilot on the hub, the ones that pilot on studs are not flat.

 

[bennersaw]

hmmm well any ideas what i have here then? the studs are shouldered so if i used tapered lug nuts they would bottom out before they tightened on the rim. i thought maybe somebody ground off the lip, but it sure doesnt look like it. i think the truck is an old centurion, it doesnt say it but it looks like it. would they have done something different?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

hmmm well any ideas what i have here then? the studs are shouldered so if i used tapered lug nuts they would bottom out before they tightened on the rim. i thought maybe somebody ground off the lip, but it sure doesnt look like it. i think the truck is an old centurion, it doesnt say it but it looks like it. would they have done something different?

Why are you trying to use tapered lugnuts? Those are only used on Dodges, and GMs with the clamp ring. The correct Ford wheels cannot use them, you use those washered nuts you show in the first picture you posted. If you wanna use tapered lugnuts on flat Ford wheels you need a GM clamp ring, but IMHO that's more effort than it's worth.

It could very well be an old Centurion, it's some sort of conversion for sure - Ford didn't offer a 4x4 dually with pickup bed in those model years, so each one you see was converted either from 4x4 SRW or 2wd DRW.

 

[bennersaw]

Im not trying to use tapered lug nuts, im just trying to get this setup right. i don't know whether i gotta get new hubs or wheels or whatever. i was just sayin that if the setup was supposed to use tapered lugnuts with tapered wheels, that they would bottom out on the shoulders on the studs before they would tighten the wheel. so i guess im asking what other ways would these wheels be centered if they arent lug or hub centered?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Don't buy new wheels, no wheel will fix the stupidity that went into producing spares with no pilot lip. Use your flat face Ford wheels, and the washered lugnuts. You can center your front wheels the way I center my rear outers, I have spacers between the duallies causing the outers to fall off the pilot lip on the hub and kinda just hang there like your fronts do.

First, put the truck in 4x4 and lock the front axle in, you want to prevent the wheel hubs from turning freely. Then put the wheel on with two lugnuts only, hand-tighten the lugnuts till the wheel is flat on the hub but not tightly forced against it, you want just a tiny bit of slack there allowing the wheel to move a little on the hub. Go get a helper. Now here comes the fun part - grab the wheel with both hands, and try to turn it in one direction, it will move a bit then jam against the studs of the locked wheel hub, as you continue to apply force it will lift slightly then stop moving altogether - hold the beast there and have your helper tighten the two lugnuts.

Then take a step back, and look at how the studs fit thru the holes in the wheel - you want all of them to be firmly against one side of the holes, left or right side will depend on which direction you turned the wheel and quite frankly does not matter, as long as no studs are against the walls in towards the hub or out towards the tire you're good. If some studs are closer to the hub the studs on the opposite side will be closer to the tire, and that shows the wheel has slipped vertically on the hub - if you see that loosen the lugnuts and repeat the exercise. If all studs are equidistant from hub and tire, and only contact the left or right walls of their wheel holes, you're good - install the other 6 lugnuts, tighten everything, repeat with the wheel on the other side, and enjoy your new smooth ride.

Btw I do this without a helper, one hand holding and turning the wheel and the other working the impact wrench - after a few times you get the hang of it

 

[bennersaw]

Thanks for the quick replies i really appreciate it. the flat faced wheels I have actually fit very tight on the shoulders of the studs. if you dont put the wheel on square it will lock up crooked on the studs if you know what i mean. once they are on the shoulders of the studs, you couldnt move them one way or the other anyways...i did put on my set of wheels and the wobble is gone, so i guess i will just run em... any advice on getting that broken stud out?

thanks again,

jim