Brake Job Done

icanfixall

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Finally finished my rear brake job because I bought that spring tool finally. the tool needs some modifications made to it. A bend needs to be made so it works better but its ok for now. I had lots of issues trying to remove the shoe anchor spring behind the parking brake lever. Just could not get behind it. finally figured it out. That lever has a bolt thru it and its a 7/16 hex on the back side of the backing plate. Then it must be pried out of the plate. Care needs to be taken if you try to drive the bolt out to use anti sieze on the cams and lever rubbing places. It has a special way it all goes together. Make a mistake and you have no parking brake. I found the shoes were only half worn down. Compared to the other side that was metal to metal. Plenty of material left before the rivets got into the drum. Also the drum was fine too. I adjusted the shoes till they dragged but that was not enough. I have a very low peddle now and its soft with no parking brake. Will check into more manual adjusting.. Just felt another quake after shock and hear the neighbors dogs barking. Thats about 200 aftershocks and quakes of 2.0 or better since Friday...
 

pickupman

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I need to do my rear brakes also. The parking brake doesn't hold and it don't feel like the rear brakes are that effective in general. Several years ago after I bought my truck, I took it to Pepboys to get the rear brakes done. Bad mistake. After they did the brakes, the parking brake never held well. I took it back and they tried to charge me to fix it. I insisted that they fix it, so they reluctantly "fixed" it. The problem is they never really fixed it and I realized afterwards they probably didn't know what they heck they were doing. It's hard not to go on a rant about that, but my point is that I wanted to say thanks for posting this info on the doing a rear brake job, because I would much rather take the time to learn how to do something on my own than pay people to "fix" something that they are not going to do right.
 

icanfixall

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This may help you understand the rear brake job.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=6B46EDA79438280467A56B46EDA79438280467A5
Pep Boys really suck like many other shops when it comes to our rigs. I know of a great family owned wheel and frame shop that has done brake work for me many times. I have had them do my fronts and rear brakes on my f350 and they do great work. They are located in the City of Industry. Not all that far from you. They close early on Sat and closed Sunday and Monday. Its called Bear Wheel and Frame on Amar st.
 

typ4

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Gary, make sure the ends of the shoe at the top anchor are very close or touching the park brake cam, my new shoes needed some welding and grinding to be correct and till I did that I had a VERY low park brake. I will do a video in a month when I do the dually rear brakes.
One side wore out because Gary is always powerbraking to do burnouts.LOL
 

icanfixall

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Al the hand is getting very bad. Its painful doing almost anything. Not going blind yet either...:angel: I think my days of being a worker are ending. Getting old sucks. I will try some therapy for my back and shoulder thats freezing up more and more. I have been wanting to finish up my psd fuel filter modification to work on our engines but thats a back seat item for some time later. I also want to increase the Bb code pop pressure to 2200 or 2300 lbs but thats a later on thing too. I believe I can go to 2500 lbs pop pressure but it will kill the injection pump. Don't know how long what I have will last but am about to find out.
Have no idea why the drivers side shoes went thru to metal on me. I sure wont let that happen again. the damn adjuster was way past the adjusting slot. I could not reach it to back off the brakes. Had to use my die grinder and a round burr to open up the slot to reach the wheel. I was not the person that did the last brake job. I just continued adjusting them when the parking brake peddle was down close to the floor when it set. Russ, thanks for the information. I probably will open up both sides and have a look see. I had great parking brake till I just did the passenger side. I did remove the parking brake lever from the backing plate too. I did not do that on the other side. I had no idea I could remove it and it was a hellish job working around that lever too. I did lube this recent side lever actuator very well so maybe that has something to do with the poor parking brake. I checked the cables and they are clean and moving freely. They look almost new. I see where they work and the internal cable is clean and still has the nice plastic on it. I can hear both sides working when I pull each sides cable.
 

gandalf

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Gary, make sure the ends of the shoe at the top anchor are very close or touching the park brake cam, my new shoes needed some welding and grinding to be correct and till I did that I had a VERY low park brake. I will do a video in a month when I do the dually rear brakes.
One side wore out because Gary is always powerbraking to do burnouts.LOL

Could you explain that a bit more, Russ? Are you saying that the shoes may not fit as they should? Is there really that much slop and leeway on the fit? I'm looking forward to your video on the read dually brakes. Of course, I hope to have mine done by then.

Gary powerbraking to do burnouts?? Yep, that's our Gary.:rotflmao
 

typ4

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Yes they are that sloppy, not all of them but it bears inspection. The offshore shoes are the worst and you have no way of knowing till you fit them,
 

chris142

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Im guessing that the side that still had lining left has a rusted wheel cylinder thats not pushing the shoes out.
 

icanfixall

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Im guessing that the side that still had lining left has a rusted wheel cylinder thats not pushing the shoes out.

Now theres a scarey thought.. I did "test" the brakes by hitting them hard enough to lock up both side rears. I saw 2 nice black marks behind me. Rusted wheel cylinders is a possibility but not likely. Only one real way to check that out too. Replace or open them up. Either way your bleeding the brakes..
 

towcat

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Finally finished my rear brake job because I bought that spring tool finally. the tool needs some modifications made to it. A bend needs to be made so it works better but its ok for now.

gary-
i attempted to modify my snap-on tool and wound up breaking it.
the Matco one works much better due to the "bendy" feature to clear the hub flange.
 

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typ4

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Hmmm, a tool I dont have, I have a big flat screwdriver I notched to catch the spring and push it in, made it 30 years ago, works good. Guy I did work for had 10 or so ford ,dodge and IH trucks ,I was always doing brakes.
Made it for them.
 
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