boost question

[FLA RAM]

I have a 2001 with aautomatic trans. I am running 20# of boost is there any way to increase that?

 

[holtzer1]

get a box, dont try to plug the wastegate without adding fuel with a chip...youll just run it lean and defeat the purpose and more likely damage your engine. is there any reason you want more boost? besides power?

 

[holtzer1]

oh...and keep the power adders to a minimum with that automatic, the edge e-z is the best way to go and still stay safe.

 

[FLA RAM]

I have a edge chip. Iwas planning to take my trans in to have the valve body done next week.What is a box? How much can i do before I start hurting the trans?Thanks for the help.

 

[haz-mat19]

The edge ez is a box that plugs into the engine in two places. With a good valvebody you can hold pretty good power I would quess around 300 or so. I have one and it shifts good, but a t/c will be down the road soon. When you add power remember to get gauges, you need to keep an eye on the temps. The valvebody will raise the temp alittle in the trans due to the increased line pressure. Also get a f/p gauge to keep an eye on the liftpump. Good luck, see ya

 

[MLR]

With just the box (chip) you should be fine. I think you are on the right track here. Get that valve body in and then start saving for a converter. My trans held an EZ and 275 RV injectors just fine. Then I upgraded to an HX35 turbo and the converter started to shudder. So, with the chip and injectors I was right on the edge. I added a shift kit and a converter and it has been working great. The upgrades also allowed me to step up to the Edge Comp without a problem. I will second what haz-mat 19 said about getting those gauges, especially the fuel pressure.

HTH
Max

 

[holtzer1]

not to tell you your wrong, but working with these trucks all day, i've seen t/c's go to the ******* with just a tst chip....turned up to level 4-5. if you want it to hold up for the long haul, get a valve body, t/c and some gauges. but honestly, the trans temp gauge is mostly useless, once you get it that hot, its usually too late.

 

[holtzer1]

oh...and get a FASS fuel system and forget the f/p gauge too. youll thank yourself when you do.

 

[dieselminded]

23 PSI is the effciency range for the HY35 ....and for a warning with the waste gate plugged and a Comp 5x5 I was running close to 50# of boost @ WOT ..

The 9 CM EXT Housing is very small but when exhaust enters the housing chamber it quickly spools the Compressor fins and creates boost very fast with minimal exhaust .

The set back is the Small exhaust housing cannot get rid of the exhaust fast enough and often is over worked ...... and Spools past 25 PSI where the compressor fins are past there efficiency range and create heat ... HEAT IS BAD.... also great boost numbers create DRIVE PRESSURE which will take out your head Gasket . With my mods I was running my HY to 50 PSI which is bad.

Now with the 12 CM housing that's on the HX WHICH IS STOCK ON THE MAnual transmission truck of your year its a bit larger which Builds boost slower but can get rid of the exhaust more efficiently ... how ever the Efficiency range of the HX is the same for the HY .... but to achieve 25 plus # of boost you will have to have enough exhaust in the exhaust housing to spool up the exhaust fins to a point where the compressor fins are really cranking.... this basically means you will need more exhaust to reach the limit of the HX.

Bad is the fact that with out bombs on an Auto you will be worst off to have the HX because you wont be able to build enough exhaust to spool the turbo up to Have Power to go

Now with bombs then You will have more up top ....and cooler temps because the exhaust is being dissipated quickly ....

So 20 PSI is where you want to be with no bomb's....

You bomb your truck and j-hook that turbo and its going to gernade on ya'

DM

 

[Hohn]

get a box, dont try to plug the wastegate without adding fuel with a chip...youll just run it lean and defeat the purpose and more likely damage your engine. is there any reason you want more boost? besides power?

You can't run a diesel too lean, and certainly won't damage the engine from doing so.

Besides, a blocked WG with stock fueling will still only take you to 27 psi or so-- just not enough fuel to hurt anything.

 

[Hohn]

oh...and keep the power adders to a minimum with that automatic, the edge e-z is the best way to go and still stay safe.

Maybe, but for a given HP level, injectors will be less stressful on an auto trans. They don't give the big torque spike that kills trannies.

 

[Hohn]

oh...and get a FASS fuel system and forget the f/p gauge too. youll thank yourself when you do.

Why? If fp is good, there's no need to fix what isn't broken.

I can maintain 10psi with 150hp injectors and a stock LP. All i've done is remove the restrictive OEM fuel lines.

Factory LP still going strong. Spent $120, not $500.

And the Fass hasn't proven to be any more reliable on a cost basis. I can replace a factory LP 3-4 times for the cost of a FASS and 6-7 times for the cost of an AirDog.

There are plenty of reports of FASS reliability issues, enough to where we can safely say that the FASS is not the be-all, end-all fuel pump setup for our trucks!

The only "bulletproof" electric system I've seen that's PROVEN (almost 4 years on it) used an Aeromotive pump.

In the price range of a FASS, the RASP seems to be a better value-- and it's MECHANICAL-- failure will be rarer than hen's teeth.

 

[Whit]

I can vouch fer that.............edge ez, 275 nozzles, j hooked wastegate and k-boob the OEM turbo **** itself at 32 psi

 

[haz-mat19]

Good to know, I quess that I will not block my turbo . I don't want a new one yet . See ya

 

[dieselminded]

Pick up an Hx35 for $150 from this guy .....

A world of diffrence !

http://www.dodgedieseldatabase.com/ken_mccabe.htm

DM