body lifts and mounts, outside the box!!!

[glowplug]

I have read some posts on this site about 2" body lifts.
I would like to lift my truck 2" for working room and to add a turbo one day.
But i just don't know if i want to go with pucks/nylon lift blocks
and am thinking outside the box so.....
Has anyone ever got extra mount brackets and cut and welded in a 2" section to use OEM body mount? so no pucks are needed.
Is there any OEM mounts that are 2" bigger that could be used? maybe off some other kind truck?
Some rear body mounts (on cross section) cab mounts are bigger why not get a few of them to use?
If anyone has tried any of these ways or any other ways and did it work?

 

[glowplug]

Bump

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

So far as the two forward mount brackets, the one under the radiator support and the one under the floor-board, it is a simple matter to remove them from the frame, add as much length onto the bottom leg as desired, drill new holes accordingly, and remount to the frame.

The mounts under the rear of the cab sit on a cross-member and can be addressed in a number of ways.

A good steel flat can just stay at the level where it already is; otherwise, the bed-mounts can be addressed in the same fashion as the cab-mounts.


However you lift the cab, I strongly recommend a Borgeson or Flaming River steering-shaft, regardless of any claims to the contrary.

 

[glowplug]

thanks... i want a 2 inch lift but i would like to use oem rubber mounts instead of adding 2 inch pucks. i dont mind the extra work as long as it safe, and making all the mount/brackets longer i would have less body sway/roll that alot of people say comes from lifting the body.i'll look into the steering -shaft

 

[riotwarrior]

thanks... i want a 2 inch lift but i would like to use oem rubber mounts instead of adding 2 inch pucks. i dont mind the extra work as long as it safe, and making all the mount/brackets longer i would have less body sway/roll that alot of people say comes from lifting the body.i'll look into the steering -shaft

The 2" blocks rest atop the stock mounts so you just get lift, I'd suggest the blocks myself, and if you don't want plastic have some made of solid aluminum and drill em out. Then add grade 8 1/2" bolts and you should be just ticketyboo fine!


JM2CW

 

[glowplug]

what about dissimilar metals? aluminum and metal corrosion how much of a facture will that have. maybe its all just to much work and i should go with a kit and spend more time on other things on the truck. im just so used to the hard way im going to look at the mounts on my parts truck when its ripped down and look at cutting and welding before i go with a kit or blocks

 

[GOOSE]

I have often though of doing a traditional 2" body lift on the cab and building a 2" box tube sub structure for the bed so you could make it dump.

 

[glowplug]

nice....look at old dump trucks for the parts i love using old stuff. keep as much out of junk yard as u can because when its gone its gone. storage is my only problem lol

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Just an FYI, I put the 2" kit on my old truck and I thought the quality of the blocks and hardware was pretty good. The only exception I made was there are two bed crossmembers that were "hovering" in space, so as Goose suggested, you could certainly build a 2" square tubing structure. I went the easy route and added two stacked hockey pucks at the cross members where they had previously rested on the frame. I have had lots of weight in the back of my old truck, including one ton of wood pellets about 24 hours before I sold it, and I've had more weight in the back and it never gave me any grief.

I like the out of the box idea, but in this case I'd stick to the kit as it even comes with a slick little steering shaft extender that you'll thank yourself for later on too

 

[glowplug]

the kit looks like the way to go then. i do want to add a 5th wheel/goosenech set up in the bed will the pucks or tubing stop me from doing that or is it just add longer bolts to mount it