Block heater question

[laserjock]

RTV... Yes or no? It has an oring but I don't want leaks.

Thanks!

 

[subway]

The several I have done I sealed with just the oring. I did make sure that the sealing surface was cleaned up well with no nicks. Orings are great at sealing themselves in general if they don't get damaged.

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[MTKirk]

No on the rtv. Lube the o-ring with plumbers silicone grease (or engine coolant), don't use petroleum based lube it can weaken the o-ring.

 

[laserjock]

Follow up question. Does this look like the right block heater?

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I have messed with it for 30 minutes now and I see no possible way to insert this thing. There is not enough movement in the toggle part to let it slip in. It's like the bolt holding the toggle doo dad is too short.

 

[BDCarrillo]

The ears on the bit that tightens to the block look huge compared to the OEM part, which is more like a traditional toggle bolt. Maybe trim them down to diameter of block hole+.3"??

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[laserjock]

Yes. Yes they do. Thanks BD. That one looks much more reasonable.

 

[MTKirk]

Doesn't look right to me, the toggle spreads out as you start tightening it. My zero-start looked just like the ford one posted by BDCarrilo.

 

[laserjock]

Well, given its a 3 year ago eBay purchase, best case is I can make it work. Worst case is I have 2 brand new heaters with new cords or as the case may be 2 brand new heater cords. [emoji849]

 

[MTKirk]

Well, given its a 3 year ago eBay purchase, best case is I can make it work. Worst case is I have 2 brand new heaters with new cords or as the case may be 2 brand new heater cords. [emoji849]

I wouldn't F*ck around with an E-bay heater, go either Zero-start or Ford OEM. Too many major things can go wrong.