best N/A pyrometer location??

[6.9poweredscout]

ok on a turbo equipped motor the best location is right before, or right after the turbo for the most accurate readings correct? well on an N/A motor the y pipe seems too far away to get a good reading, could i just put it after the driver side manifold or will it throw things off only reading one bank? i'm DYING to crank up the i/p but i really don't want to hurt anything so i figure a pyro is a first ana a must!

thanks
-Jon

 

[Truck#3]

put it towards the back of the driverside manifold for most accurate reading its the same for n/a and turbo makes no difference.

 

[tractorman86]

put it towards the back of the driverside manifold for most accurate reading its the same for n/a and turbo makes no difference.

+2

 

[6.9poweredscout]

IN the manifold or in the exhaust pipe right after the manifold?

sorry for the confusion...

-Jon

 

[The Warden]

I've heard before that drilling into the cast-iron manifold's not a good idea because it can lead to cracking. OTOH, IIRC the Cummins guys do it regularly, so I'm really not sure.

The closer to the exhaust outlet from the cylinder head you have the thermocouple, the better...so, ideally, you would want it in the manifold. Reading only one side shouldn't be too big of a deal unless you develop a problem on the other side....but, really, a pyro is an indicator of how hard your engine's working, and unless there are mechanical problems, both banks are working equally hard. That said, you CAN install a dual pyro if you have the money...

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Jon, I've put the pyro 3" below the drivers side manifold in the pipe itself for both setups. Used the clamp style pyro from autometer.

Gets pretty accurate and not too much temperature loss from that location.

 

[subway]

i drilled and tapped right into the drivers side manifold toward the back. you want it as close to the cylinder as possible right were the action is. the farther away the probe is the more you have to mentally compesate for heat loss.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

That said, you CAN install a dual pyro if you have the money...

well i'm borrowing a friends welder so i'll weld a bung in the driver side right after the manifold, the whole drilling and tapping doesn't sound too fun under it. and i was just gonna get the autometer kit. i have the Isspro dual gauge for the scout, want everything monitored closley with the twin turbos....

-Jon

 

[OLDBULL8]

Don't take hardly any time to drill and install the pyro between #6 and #8 in the exhaust manifold with the Autometer kit. Put the strap/clamp around 1st and mark the drilling spot, drill 1/4" hole and assemble. Just make sure you can get to the screw to tighten the clamp.
If you want a pic I'll go out and snap one.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

will 4" make that much of a difference??

-Jon

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

IIRC there was a rule of thumb. 100 degrees for every 12".
Somebody correct me if I am wrong.

 

[trackspeeder]

I've heard before that drilling into the cast-iron manifold's not a good idea because it can lead to cracking. OTOH, IIRC the Cummins guys do it regularly, so I'm really not sure.

The closer to the exhaust outlet from the cylinder head you have the thermocouple, the better...so, ideally, you would want it in the manifold. Reading only one side shouldn't be too big of a deal unless you develop a problem on the other side....but, really, a pyro is an indicator of how hard your engine's working, and unless there are mechanical problems, both banks are working equally hard. That said, you CAN install a dual pyro if you have the money...

Us darksiders drill into the manifold too.;p Never had any issues.

 

[npe3484]

Don't take hardly any time to drill and install the pyro between #6 and #8 in the exhaust manifold with the Autometer kit. Put the strap/clamp around 1st and mark the drilling spot, drill 1/4" hole and assemble. Just make sure you can get to the screw to tighten the clamp.
If you want a pic I'll go out and snap one.

Would you mind getting a pic? I'm a newb when it comes to these engines.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

so are you guys drilling from the top? and are you taping them or just putting the pyro in and clamping it? isn't cast EXTREMELY hard to drill too?

-Jon

 

[pacaman]

On my 93 I was able to remove the drivers side tire, move the rubber part of the inerfender and drill and tap the manifold just before the flange. This was nice because I could sit on the tire and not have hot metal chipps falling on me. Just some advice on drilling cast metal, start with a small bit and work your way up in size (I used about 5 sizes) it takes a little longer but less stress with taking smaller bites. Also use plenty of tapping lube while drilling and tapping. Good luck and it's worth it, you will learn alot about how you drive your truck.