Batteries drained overnight

[TronDD]

The truck has finally been starting consistently enough to get an inspection and drive it to work yesterday. No issues on the way, but when I got to work, I turned the key off but nothing shut off. I killed the motor at the FSS but realized with all the accessories still on, I'd have a dead truck by the time I got out of work. Had no tools to unhook the batteries so I jumped in to drive it home where I had tools. I started it back up, then tried shutting it off again and it worked. So I went into work. Drove it home and it shut off there without any apparent issue. Next morning batteries are dead.

Either it wasn't shut off all the way, or in the night it made a connection. I'm not sure which is more probable.

Is the ignition switch out of adjustment or is the actuator totally hosed? How do I make sure the truck is completely off without disconnecting the batteries?

Tim.

 

[Oog]

Check your voltage regulator on the fender.

 

[79jasper]

I actuator rod can get bent over time. Also you can adjust the ignition switch. (Not the key cylinder)
I would start with these, since you said it wouldn't shut off.
Then move to the voltage regulator. (Which may be built into your alternator, if you have the 3g. Not exactly sure what year they started)

 

[TronDD]

According to my manuals, it's externally regulated.

The PO said he replaced the ignition switch, I assume he meant the electric part at the base of the column since the key is original. I wouldn't be surprised if the mechanics are worn out.

Tim.

 

[79jasper]

You can unplug the regulator over night for the battery drainage part. Generally if it stops it, it's a bad regulator.

 

[TronDD]

Jumped the truck, let the batteries charged, couldn't shut it off again. Seems *some* of the stuff turns off and some doesn't. Like the radio and the gauges turn off but the engine still runs and the ABS light stays on faintly.

I can see the actuator rod move with the key in the column. I would think that if the ignition needed to be adjusted, I could shut if off, or otherwise change things if I turned the key all the way to accessory. As I turn the key, I can turn the radio on and off, and make the ABS light happy and shut off (in the ON position), but can't kill everything. Accessory doesn't turn the radio back on, so I'm not getting there on the switch.

I'd have said it was the rod or the gear at the lock, but I see the rod moving fine in the column. What can break at the ignition end?

Tim.

 

[79jasper]

A few things. Could be something metal loose down in the ignition switch.
I've opened them up and repaired them before. But that's what it sounds like now.

 

[TronDD]

Well I unplugged and removed the ignition switch, the electrical part, and I still get power to stuff under the hood. That does not seem like it should be the case.

Burned and crossed wires? Bad solenoid?

Tim.

 

[79jasper]

Sounds like some bad wires.
Take fuses and relays out one by one til it quits.

 

[smokin150]

Check the voltage regulator, I had an old dodge motor home that did this. The regulator shorted internally which allowed for back feed of current, just enough to keep things running

 

[TronDD]

Unplugged the regulator, still get power. Gotta be a short somewhere.

The regulator connector is in rough shape. Lots of corrosion, one of the pins had been replaced with a female spade connector spliced onto the wire, the regulator pins are all rusted. While looking at the condition of the fusible links, a wire pulled out of a butt connector. Looks like a couple of links have been replaced with wire that is mostly exposed. Not sure if that is where my short is or not.

Going to try to find a regulator harness.

EDIT: Nope, those exposed wires where the fusible links are weren't it. I left them apart and away from each other, still had power. So I tried fuses. Pulled 3 "always on" type circuits, power locks, GPC, and speed control something or other. Power was off! Sweet, it's on of those circuits, said I. I put them back in one by one and...still no power. So now it's off like it's supposed to be (regulator and ignition are still out) and I have no idea why.

Tim.

 

[TronDD]

And it's back on... Pulled more fuses, power shut off again, put all the fuses back, power is still off. I hate inconsistent problems. I can't tack this down. I know it's going to kill my batteries when I'm parked in the middle of nowhere.

Tim.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Check the alternator if it's warm after setting awhile, it may have a shorted diode in it, that can run your batteries down.

 

[TronDD]

Can bad alternator not just drain the batteries, but power pretty much the whole system when it's not supposed to?

If I unplug the alt while things are acting up, if it's a crossed wire, I would still have power and rule out the alt. Right?

Tim.

 

[TronDD]

Ok, back from a long weekend of racing so I can put some attention on the truck.

Still getting power from somewhere, just not consistently. Sometimes, no power, sometimes, relays click on and off rapidly, sometimes they just stay on.

I checked my starter relay on the fender. I have continuity between the positive terminal and the starter terminal with the ignition wire disconnected. With the batteries connected, I get a wavering amount of voltage across those terminals. This doesn't seem right. As far as I can tell, the starter isn't trying to start the motor, though. And I'm not sure how this would cause power to get to other accessories, either.

I am so lost.

Tim.