Barely running

dbar2000

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I picked up a barely running 99 PSD with 250k miles and could use some troubleshooting help.

Symptoms:

Cold start - Engine runs rough but will slowly rev to 1500 rpm.

Runs smooth from 1500-2500 rpm

Runs smooth but blows a lot of white smoke above 2500 rpm - smells like unburned fuel.

Won't idle - runs real rough and dies

Hot start - if it starts, rough idle at 600-700 rpm with a loud knock and no response to throttle postion.

I changed the fuel filter and checked the IPR o-rings (looked good). I have a CPS to install but from what I have read they are all or nothing.

I'm new to the forum and would appreciate any help or point to an old thread that might address my problem(s).
 

Agnem

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I'm a newbie too, so any comments I'd make would be just guessing, but have you changed the fuel filter? What's the history on the truck? If the injectors are original, maybe they are shot. Low fuel presure maybe? Have you changed the oil?
 

riphip

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Check the oil for diesel smell. O-rings may need replacing. Also check the fuel pressure regulator screen in the filter housing.

Rick
 

geonc

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I picked up a barely running 99 PSD with 250k miles and could use some troubleshooting help.


I'm new to the forum and would appreciate any help or point to an old thread that might address my problem(s).

Welcome to Oilburners :cheers:

Do you have any maint/repair history from the previous owner?

Age and level of oil also play important roles in smooth operation....

What color is the fuel in the filter bowl? Black will indicate bad inj o rings...if clear/amber then inj o rings are fine

here is a pic of what a fried UVC {under valve cover} harness looks like....you really can't see much from the outside---The UVC is actually the valve cover gasket and wiring connection in one unit and are a known trouble spot in the mileage you have on yours. This pic is from my '96 and while yours will have only one connection per cyl head as opposed to the duals on the '94/'97 PSD's.....the end results are the same and will cause a multitude of problems.

Keep us posted!

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dbar2000

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No history on the truck. I bought the truck from this young guy who had bought it as a project truck but never did anything with it.

Fuel in the filter bowl didn't look too bad.

I pulled left side valve cover, UVC harness looks OK. I pulled one injector - visually it looked fine. Nothing obvoiusly wrong with the o-rings.

Replaced the cam position sensor - no change. I'm going to try the MAP sensor next and also check right side UVC harness.
 

tonkadoctor

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1999 F250 Powerstroke
250k miles

Wow, memories...... Remember my 2000 with 325k GEO.
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Couple freebies to check.
  1. Watch oil pressure guage when cranking it should come up withing a few seconds of cranking or if it fires right away withing a second or 2, if it doesn't come up and won't start or dies immediatly you have a lube pump problem..... see #2
  2. Pull the plug on the HPOP oil resevoir and check the level when it dies or won't start. If it's empty theres a good chance you will need to replace the timing cover and oil pump (steel oil pump gearotor rides on aluminum cover and wears it out, common on high mile 7.3 PSD) This means remove the engine to replace the front cover, oil pump can be replaced without removing the engine.
  3. This one takes a little time...... With valve covers off you can remove the solenoids from the injectors without pulling the injectors. Check for scoring like in the picture below. What is shown is an indication the poppet valve in the injector is hitting the solenoid. This is a cold start problem. The other end of the poppet valve being worn (and you can't check it) will cause hot start problems.
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Mine had a combination of both worn timing cover and lube pump, and 4 bad injectors. Was a ***** to diagnose but ran great once found and repaired.
 

tonkadoctor

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I pulled left side valve cover, UVC harness looks OK. I pulled one injector - visually it looked fine. Nothing obvoiusly wrong with the o-rings.

Replaced the cam position sensor - no change. I'm going to try the MAP sensor next and also check right side UVC harness.


Sounds like you are not testing parts but just throwing stuff at it, holing parts to a light saying this looks OK and praying for a miracle.

If you don't have the diagnostic tools or strong diagnostic abilities the best and cheapest thing you can do is have a proper diagnostic computer hooked up to it even if you tow it in, pay for the diagnosis and tow it home. It can save you hundreds to thousands on a Powerstroke vs just tossing parts at it.
 

geonc

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Wow, memories...... Remember my 2000 with 325k GEO.




Couple freebies to check.
  1. Watch oil pressure guage when cranking it should come up withing a few seconds of cranking or if it fires right away withing a second or 2, if it doesn't come up and won't start or dies immediatly you have a lube pump problem..... see #2
  2. Pull the plug on the HPOP oil resevoir and check the level when it dies or won't start. If it's empty theres a good chance you will need to replace the timing cover and oil pump (steel oil pump gearotor rides on aluminum cover and wears it out, common on high mile 7.3 PSD) This means remove the engine to replace the front cover, oil pump can be replaced without removing the engine.
  3. This one takes a little time...... With valve covers off you can remove the solenoids from the injectors without pulling the injectors. Check for scoring like in the picture below. What is shown is an indication the poppet valve in the injector is hitting the solenoid. This is a cold start problem. The other end of the poppet valve being worn (and you can't check it) will cause hot start problems.
You must be registered for see images attach



Mine had a combination of both worn timing cover and lube pump, and 4 bad injectors. Was a ***** to diagnose but ran great once found and repaired.

hehehe Mike...yea and if ya look at my right hand just right {in the dark} you can barely see any scarring ;p LOL :D



Was a ***** to diagnose but ran great once found and repaired.

that is why I have to agree with Tonka...
Sounds like you are not testing parts but just throwing stuff at it, holding parts to a light saying this looks OK
 

dbar2000

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Yeah, I'm guilty of hoping for the quick fix!

I checked the left side injector solenoids from tonkadoctor's suggestion - no evidence of scoring. Still need to check the RHS for a fired UVC harness and solenoid scoring.

My brother's neighbor has a scan tool so I'm going to try to get a diagnostic run on the truck. Short of that, any suggestions for a suitable scan tool? I'm guessing multiple diagnostic runs might be needed to straighten this truck out.
 

sassyrel

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you pulled one injector--if you did--and didnt put new orings on--that one is going to leak before very long---then youll have other problems--
 

JLDickmon

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You're going to need a professional scan tool; the $60. ones at the auto parts store only read global/generic codes, of which they're damn few of on a Ford diesel.

The smoke makes me thing it's sucking air in the fuel system somewhere.. pitted line between the tank and fuel pump, etc.

but without knowing codes...
I'm guessing.
I can guess some expensive shtuff, too.

and you are correct that it may be a multiple problem vehicle...
 

dbar2000

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Well, I got a scan tool and ran the K0EO and Injector Buzz test - Both came back with a P1298 IDM failure. Is there anything to check before I plunk down the money for a new/reman IDM?
 

tonkadoctor

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Well, I got a scan tool and ran the K0EO and Injector Buzz test - Both came back with a P1298 IDM failure. Is there anything to check before I plunk down the money for a new/reman IDM?

Yep, Continuity tests on both UVC harnesses and the glow plugs. Won't cost you anything but a little time, best to make sure that's not the cause of the IDM failure, not doing it could cost you the replacement IDM.

Bad glow plug will fry the UVC harness and when the UVC harness goes bad the IDM will go into self preservation mode and shut down that bank of injectors.
 

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