Backfiring?

[seawalkersee]

Thats right. Its backfiring. I do not have fuel going to it. When I crank it, there is a loud popping noise coming from the intake. I can feel it a bit and it sounds like 2 cyls are down on compression. At first I thought it was coming from the HG or the exhaust on the drivers side. I looked and saw what appears to be the corner of a head gasket sticking out of the block (not where it should be but it was not leaking when it got pulled). So I pulled the air cleaner off and it is puffing through the intake. What gives? How do I continue to get this lucky?

SWS

 

[Andylad13]

maybe your intake valves arnt seating??

 

[towcat]

intake valves aren't seating properly.
in short...impending doom.

 

[typ4]

Or you have a broken exhaust pushrod, or rocker. It will hold pressure in the cylinder until the intake opens, then ,POP.

 

[seawalkersee]

I cranked it over a few more times tonight. It started to smooth out a bit. Its funny, I am only running one battery and it is cranking fine. I think it is just pumping its self up so it will/should clear up. I cranked it for a few seconds but like I said, it was popping. It sounds like a drum but with my hand a few inches above it, I can feel the precussion other than feel it pushing air. I hope it works....Hope.

Does anyone have a good pic of the cable (the big one) from the starter? I have asked on several different threads with nothin'

SWS

 

[seawalkersee]

Does anyone have a good pic of the cable (the big one) from the starter? I have asked on several different threads with nothin'

SWS

No one? I see from some of the other pictures of engine bays that the postive cabel is the one closest to the frame. Where does the short lead go to and does the large cable meet it there? I assume it goes to another selonoid/relay so when you turn the key back, the alt spinning does not continue to energize the fuel selonoid. Any help would be appriciated.

SWS

 

[tractorman86]

sounds like an intake valve open, could be as mensioned broken push rod or valve spring. i can get pics of mine but they are not factory i built them myself so it will probably help vety little

 

[seawalkersee]

Actually, it is WAYYYYY better today. There was only a small difference in the way it sounded while it was cranking. I am pretty sure it is past that and wil be okay as soon as I get things running. Now...Where does the short pig tail off of the "+" cable go. I have no diagram for this and do not know if it goes directly to some sort of post or what.

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

No one? I see from some of the other pictures of engine bays that the postive cabel is the one closest to the frame. Where does the short lead go to and does the large cable meet it there? I assume it goes to another selonoid/relay so when you turn the key back, the alt spinning does not continue to energize the fuel selonoid. Any help would be appriciated.

Now...Where does the short pig tail off of the "+" cable go. I have no diagram for this and do not know if it goes directly to some sort of post or what.

SWS

Aight, without knowing for sure which short pigtail you're talking about, here's how I have my cable set up:

a) fat cable from battery down to starter (like you said, connected to the terminal closer to the frame),
b) 6-awg cable from battery back to starter relay on fenderwell,
c) 6-awg cable from starter relay on fenderwell down to starter solenoid (uses the small post obviously),
d) 6-awg high-current cable from alternator right to the battery.

The FSS is energized by a key-on power source, likely the same circuit that powers the solid-state glowplugs controller. My buddy Jake's '86 F250 has the push-button glowplugs control, but his FSS is still on key-on power. You are using a solid-state controller as well, no? If so, just tap off the key-on wire that powers it and feed that to the FSS, since this is a key-on power once you turn the ignition back current flow through it is interrupted and both the glowplugs control and the FSS should turn off. Or you can always run another key-on wire, it ain't like the FSS is gonna draw lotsa current and stuff...

 

[seawalkersee]

Ok...for "a", what terminal? Is there another relay/selonoid there? The short pigtail I am talking about is the one from the "=" side of the battery. The other end goes from one side of the rad to the other side of the rad along the core support.

SWS

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ok...for "a", what terminal? Is there another relay/selonoid there? The short pigtail I am talking about is the one from the "=" side of the battery. The other end goes from one side of the rad to the other side of the rad along the core support.

SWS

For a) I was talking about the big 1" thick cable, there's only one post on the starter that will take something that big, it's like a 5/8" socket for that nut. And what you're really connecting the cable to down there ain't the starter motor itself, but the starter solenoid, essentially you trigger the fender relay which triggers the massive starter relay (that solenoid) which then triggers the motor.

For the (-) cable, does the pigtail have a ring-terminal? If so, it goes to the body somewhere, usually the radiator support but you can use the fender too.

 

[macman85602]

I built my battery cables out of 0/1 welding cables they go from the starter to the positive side of the passenger battery then on to the positive side of the driver side battery. I used 2 4Ga cables, 1 from the passenger side positive to the starter relay and one to the Glow plug relay. I know its over kill. I used battery terminals with the wing nut on top to hook everything together. I also used 0/1 welding cable for the negative lines too.

 

[Andylad13]

I built my battery cables out of 0/1 welding cables they go from the starter to the positive side of the passenger battery then on to the positive side of the driver side battery. I used 2 4Ga cables, 1 from the passenger side positive to the starter relay and one to the Glow plug relay. I know its over kill. I used battery terminals with the wing nut on top to hook everything together. I also used 0/1 welding cable for the negative lines too.

There is a fine line between quality, and over kill. you my friend have a quality set up!!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Lol, 0/1 is big, but 0/3 is big, and that's just what Jake has - freakin 0/3 for all positive and negative battery cables, don't ask how easy those were to bend...

 

[seawalkersee]

No no no...I need to know where the OTHER end of the starter cable goes. I have the part already attached to the starter, but where does the other end go?

SWS