ARP head stud torque??

[Michael Fowler]

Stupid me! I have lost, or misplaced the ARP intructions that came with my head stud kit.
I am in the process of re-torquing them, and I need help.
I have the 7/16 studs for the 6.9.
From a chart on the ARP website, I see the torque range for 7/16 studs is 71-89 using oil, or 56 -70 using their moly.
I do not see, nor was there in the origianl instructions, anything about redoing it 5 times like icanfixall states. What he says makes sense, but is that a special instruction for the 1/2 inch studs in the 7.3?
I plan to use 30wt motor oil, unless that is not acceptable.
I want to do this this afternoon, so time is really of the essence.

Thanks

 

[Exekiel69]

Gary should be here soon

 

[Agnem]

Michael, call Rob (69Oiler) maybe he remembers. His contact info is on the Boob site.

 

[icanfixall]

Hello guys... Just woke up and still trying to get my heart started. Give ARP a call and talk to an engineer about this information I have posted or... Try it yourself. Just don't use a new head gasket. I was lucky having a new used set of gaskets and a set of cracked heads. The oil or moly lube used is very important. You really need to follow those torque instructions carefully. Make sure the lube is on the threads and the nut and washer. Just think of where the twisting friction will be. If you can't use your block and heads for this torque like I did try some pipe cut to the length of the head thickness. Its an easy measurement to get. Then thread the studs down into the block and tighten them up and release them. You will see them turn more each time you do this. The studs will lock down into the block threads but you can easily remove it when you need to. Good luck and use plenty of lube on the threads so nothing gauls up on you.

 

[69oiler]

i forget but i want to say 85 ft lbs. but like i say i forget.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Rob,
Your memory is better than you think!
At least according to the tech gut I spoke to today--he said 85. He also reminded me to use a hex key to tighten the stud into the block, after removing the nut. I found that almost all were about 1/6 of a turn loose after removing the nut. Two were looser than that. I tried multiple tightening, and found that the stud loosened during the process. I would bet that the observation that the nut turns a little more upon subsequent tightening is due to the stud moving rather than the stud stretching. Just a guess.

 

[icanfixall]

My studs were set in the block. They didn't loosen up when I released and retorqued them. This I know. I also used a allen wrench in a 3/8 inch socket. Actually I bought the complete set of them. Never know when you may need one in the future. Anyway, thats how and what I did. I was reading about the ARP Molylube. The really recommend it to be used on any of their threaded fasteners. In their finding on the package it states that motor oil will run away from heat and pressure, causing more friction which causes an insufficent clamping load. The ARP Moly attracts to heat and pressure drastically reducing friction. Its able to withstand pressures to 500,000 lbs per square inch. It works from -30*F to +750*F. Everybody will do what they feel is necessary and what I post here is exactly what I have found happens. I'm not one to add something to make for a better read.... Unless its just to get a laugh at something like others have done. So, good luck and there are some out ther that have torqued the ARP studs down only once and they have plenty of miles without a problem. Those that know me know I go to the next level on most everything. I really don't have the time to break out on the road. So I do what makes me feel that I've gone above and beyond the stock standards set down by Navistar or Ford. I want my upgrades to last at the level I feel comfortable running at... Yes Calvin, someday I'll see the governed red line on the tach but just not anytime soon. I'm really enjoying a running motor...... P.S. I just dug up my instructions on my 1/2 inch studs from ARP pertaining to 30 wt oil or their Moly lube... With 30 wt the torque should be 130 lbs and with their moly lube it should be 90 lbs. I went to 100 lbs with their moly lube because I talked with them the day I was at the factory about this. Its really a big differance in torque requirements between oil and moly.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Not to take issue with anyone, but. The ARP literature that came with my head stud kit did not mention anythiong about torquing, and re torquing the nuts 5 times. It did mention the benfits of using their moly. The problem was, I needed to get them installed, and I had no source for their moly. If they had recommended their moly at the time of purchase, I would have ordered it.
I also do not understand why their claim their moly is different, and no other moly should be used. The reason I went with 30 wt Motor oil, is that it is a pretty well known standard, although, I am sure there are some differences.

 

[icanfixall]

Michael, Your not making any issues with me. I enjoy the challanges of what I post. If I can't stand up to what I post then I should get on to somewhere else. ARP has done this fastening business for many years. That in itself has proven what works over the years of testing their products in real life. The moly lube is a propriaty mix or blend if you must. They know it works. When I was working for the electrical generating company we used a special anti-sieze for all our neclear threads. Even that was really done one up from just plain neclear grade material. In the steam generating plants it was called C5 anit sieze and in the neclear side it was NL1000. The C5 was copper colored and the NL1000 was silver. We also had something called Leadplate. It actually had lead mixed into it to reduce the friction between the threaded surfaces. Most didn't use that. I don't use what some company recommends without first reading and asking many questions about it. Another great thread anti-sieze material is called Silver Goop. Its really silver and about $80.00 for a tube about 2 oz. We used it on stainles steel but it worked on everything, just really expensive. I use this on all my exhaust bolts. Like I posted before, there are 2 members I know of that installed the ARP studs by torqueing them down once and they have not seen any problems. One is a 6.9 and the other is a 7.3. You may recall I helped Ken design his 7.3 stud kit. I got the first set and they were the 270,000 psi ones. They were in my motor when it burned down at 5200 miles because the freeze plug poped out. After that I rebuilt it again and installed those same studs. At about 1000 miles I found one laying in the driveway and another one wedged in between the frame and motor mount. I really don't know why this happened but... I moved on to what I knew was going to work. ARP... I did call many aerospace machine shops in my area of So Ca. Non were interseted in helping us out by making up some sets espeically a set with the 270,000 psi H-13 material. My ARP studs are 200,000 psi and the original head bolts new are 153,000 psi.