Anyone here ~ACTUALLY sleeve a 7.3L to a 6.9L bore?

[hce]

If the sleeve does not sit on the bottom lip then it can and will silp down in the bore ruining the fire ring seal at the top.

And this means the sleeve was not installed with the proper interference fit and the block would be junk. Its nice if it is flush at both ends but a properly fit sleeve is not going anywhere. Breaking the interference fit is going to take more force then the step in the sleeve or block could withstand.
Think about valve seats and what holds them in.

 

[icanfixall]

What broke loose my sleeves was the overheating of my engine when the freeze plug let go 5200 miles after a complete rebuild. Shop used brass after market plugs and did not have the special installer tool. Just used a drift pin and hammer.. Not a good way to do it as I have explained. Well my pistons heated up so bad they stuck to the cylinders. My oil temp was passing 330 degrees but my after market isspro mechanical gauge was showing 210 degrees because of no coolant near the sender. No coolant then you have no temp indicator. Talk about ruined engine... Sadly that was the SECOND time I lost a plug from the same shop job. The first time they told me to call them if it happened again and they would tow it and repair it free. Well they stiffed me but good on that promise. Been there and done that too.

 

[hce]

Had to take a flywheel to be turned so I brought this up to the machinest. When he rebuilds a 7.3 he talks the customer into sleeving all 8 cylinders no cavitation worries. Bores them out to 4.250". Install non step sleeves with a .004" interference fit flush with step at bottom of block. Cold sleeves forced into a block, no come backs. If one wanted to sleeve down a block with out a hesitation he said to use sleeves for a 300 six.

 

[bbjordan]

Cylinder SLeeves

Sleeves:

3/32" thickness Melling part # CSL136HP

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...0&Ne=1+2+3+13+1147708&searchTerm=689-csl136hp

1/8" thickness Melling part # CSL236HP

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...ge=60&Ne=1+2+3+13+1147708&searchTerm=csl236hp

There is also a flanged sleeve that is about 3 times the price: Melling part # 590236

Or look it up yourself.

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[Ford F834]

Since I want to finish at .040" over, I basically need a 1/4" wall thickness sleeve. Mill the block to 4.250", get a 4.00" semi-finished bore, and have .040" to clean it up. According to that Melling catalog they allow .030" between the inside sleeve diameter and the desired finished bore... so if I can find 1/4" wall sleeves it should work...

 

[rhkcommander]

Theres only two sizes i know of - 1/8 wall and 3/32... Maybe sleeve the sleeve just kidding. The wall thickness doesn't matter, just the bore/diameter measures, find one closer to what you need instead of going thicker...

Pages 12 and 13 have all of the many 4" bore sleeves... our stroke is 4.18 so the shortest would be CSL293 from what i could see. outer diameter is 4.253, bore 4, length 5 1/6 ( machining the rest off?)

 

[Ford F834]

Yesterday was one of those days when graveyard "shift-lag" and talking in circles with too many machinists apparently rendered me unable to perform 3rd grade math. Of course the Melling sleeves will work. The 1/8 inch ones anyway... I am thinking the high performance series CSL-236HP is the ticket.
　
4.11" bore opened up to 4.25" = .140" difference, .070" step
4.253" OD gives .003" interference fit
4.040" finished bore gives .105" finished sleeve thickness
(Still thicker than the .095" finished thickness of 3/32" sleeves at std bore)
　
I pitched this to my machinist, he says he wants to verify the technical specifications from Melling but he thinks it will work. It would be more "worth it" to sleeve to a std bore and have a rebuild or two left in the block, but there is about $1300 invested in the rotating assembly (plus the custom work to bush out the turbo rods) and the whole thing has only ~3,500 miles on it. They do offer a sleeve that finishes at a 4.040" bore, but not in high performance grade.