Any tips on 6.5 rebuild

[mahatma171]

This will be my first attempt at building a 6.5 turbo. Here is what I got. I have a blown 6.5 turbo in a 95 Sub K1500. Mains got cooked due to an oil pressure fluctuation, probably a bad or plugged oil pump. I believe that the top end has been worked on extensively, I see new gaskets and such on the upper intake manifolds and everything. IP looks to be pretty recent, already has new PMD kit remounted at the firewall. Turbo checked, bearings look good on it. I also have a 6.5 non-turbo engine out of my 86 K5 Blazer, running w/ about 115,000 on it, I think my injectors may have just started to get tired on it but otherwise very reliable running and great steady oil pressure at about 40 psi, didn't use oil, never overheated, always started right up even in cold single digit weather. My thought was to do the following before using this engine:
-replace rod and main crank bearings
-new piston rings
-new oil pump
-new timing chain and gears
-take heads to shop for cleaning, pressure test and milling if needed
I wasn't going to replace the cam, cam bearings, or lifters, don't really see a need for that. I also understand that these engines were prone to overheat, so I intend to do the 97-99 cooling upgrade with the 130 gpm water pump and the dual thermostats. I will be using the injectors out of the Sub, like I said I think the top end and fuel was worked on pretty extensively not too long ago.

Just a note, I haven't tore down either engine yet. I don't know what the non turbo looks like inside just yet, I will update as soon as I am able to take a peep.

Tell me whether I am doing the right thing. I want to drop this baby in and not have any issues with it down the road as I intend to keep the Sub as long or longer than I kept the K5 (10+ years). Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.

 

[mahatma171]

Oh...before I forget I better mention that the non-turbo was a GM crate engine when new. Also, I wanted some info about the oil cooler lines on a 6.5TD, I have noticed a few cooked from a rubbed through or rusty line. Should I just get some braided lines and put on there? Thanks.

 

[towcat]

1) make sure the heads are rebuildable before starting work on the bottom end.
2)the oil cooler lines are obsolete, any hydraulic shop can crimp on new hoses for you.
other than that, the reuild on a 6.5 is the same as any other motor.
good luck!

 

[mahatma171]

towcat, thanks for the advice.

I just got my heads back from the shop, they got cleaned up and found to have no cracks, also they did not need resurfaced.

Also, during this time, I have cracked the engine open to have a look-see. First of all, the engine is clean enough inside to eat off of, . I don't think that I'll be re-ringing it at this time. I have also decided to leave the cam and timing components alone. I don't remember the last time I saw an engine this nice inside. Maybe because most of the engines I open up are chewed up?

I intend to change the crank bearings, I also have ordered a high-volume, high-flow oil pump for the longevity of my bottom end. I am getting a sweet deal on some ARP head bolts, just in case I decide to get a little adventurous with power. I am gonna be more interested in fuel economy though more than anything.

Now here's a question- perhaps I should look around on here, but... I was shopping the cooling kits. SSDiesel Supply has the 130 gpm pump and dual thermostat setup, while Heath Diesel makes one kit that retrofits the stock single thermostat system (which they said works better than the dual therm.) Okay.. so who's right? Which one is the best one?

 

[nitrohogg]

depending on what your gonna use the truck for, upgrading to stock 97 and newer cooling system is pretty much what these kits will do, the SS is the best price for the buck but I would check flea bay for used stuff, cheap. cept the water pump, prolly want a new one! unless your not feeling the economy like most of us are!!

 

[mahatma171]

depending on what your gonna use the truck for, upgrading to stock 97 and newer cooling system is pretty much what these kits will do, the SS is the best price for the buck but I would check flea bay for used stuff, cheap. cept the water pump, prolly want a new one! unless your not feeling the economy like most of us are!!

Oh yeah, I def. feel it!! ....Its getting tight now, just trying to get everything that I need for this build.

I need this truck for people hauling with gear, and some towing too. Got a 21 foot boat to pull and a small utility trailer which ain't too bad. I'll look around on Ebay to see it I can find any used stuff, but yeah I'll get a new water pump for sure.

 

[nitrohogg]

some thing to keep in mind during your build, three of the best things you can do to a 6.5 diesel is make sure your radiator is clean and working properly, open up that exhaust and let it breath the coolest air it can.

 

[Fatback]

Now here's a question- perhaps I should look around on here, but... I was shopping the cooling kits. SSDiesel Supply has the 130 gpm pump and dual thermostat setup, while Heath Diesel makes one kit that retrofits the stock single thermostat system (which they said works better than the dual therm.) Okay.. so who's right? Which one is the best one?

Heath is right. He has done all the testing. SS is just copying Bill Heath. While you are at it you should move the PMD out side behind the front bumper.

 

[mahatma171]

Heath is right. He has done all the testing. SS is just copying Bill Heath. While you are at it you should move the PMD out side behind the front bumper.

This is exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks, I will go for the 130gpm pump and stay with the single therm setup. The previous owner already relocated the PMD for me with its own little heatsink, although I would like to devise a way for it to catch a little more fresh air (he has it mounted firewall- drivers side). Maybe I'll move it to the bumper like you suggested.

nitrohogg... I have been dreaming up ways in my mind to do a nice cold air intake on this truck. DPF has already been deleted for starters, and I am gonna go for a bigger crossover pipe. And I did notice debris in the radiator (or maybe I should say "on" it) when I took it out. So that will definitely get a good power wash before going back in the truck.

 

[mahatma171]

Okay... my update....

Got my HO oil pump (finally!) Checked all my oil clearances and the bottom end has been put back together. Did the timing cover, oil pan, heads with new ARP studs, and rocker arms today. I took pics, I'll post them when I have some extra time.

Oh...I purchased a 130 gpm water pump, I will leave the therm setup as is. I got more parts to scrape and paint so I can get this baby together. Oh, and a few broken exhaust manifold bolts to contend with...

 

[gatorman21218]

A coolant filter probably couldnt hurt to keep that radiator clean inside.

 

[nodd89]

aftermarket coolant filter? does sound like a good idea can u add an aftermarket system to a 6.5 that would be suffecient for the appplication? when i was doing heavy duty the only water filters i saw had pebbles in it to lube the system (mostly dt 477 if i remember correctly)

 

[mahatma171]

A coolant filter probably couldnt hurt to keep that radiator clean inside.

Interesting idea, one that I will have to look into.

Okay... Update... My progress has been kinda slow. I do auto repair on the side, and people have been coming in regularly with some time-consuming problems. I managed to get all my exhaust manifolds freed of all broken bolts, and I ordered some new Bosch injectors (ordering info about in another post of mine) and a nice 2.5" WarpSpeed crossover pipe (that should make her sing a little better!). The downpipe on the Sub is already a 3" and the cat has been deleted. I don't like a noisy truck so I will have to run the muffler. I am also running out of money so I am thinking about modding the intake myself. I'll snatch the snorkle out of the fender and open up the upper intake plenum until I can figure out what I will use for a nice cold air intake.

 

[gatorman21218]

http://www.oilburners.net/articles/coolfilter1.html

This article was written for the IDI but it can be used on any diesel (or gasser for that matter) Napa will have everything you need except the angle iron/ flat stock to make a mount. or buy it here for cheap http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-filter-bases/24019.html

you might need some creativity as to where/how to mount the filter head. just plumb it into the heater lines and your good to go. I have one and i think its cheap insurence in keeping my brand new 500 dollar radiator clean. Oh and you can buy filters with SCAs in them (i also think all diesels should have SCAs in them, even though 6.5s arent really known to cavitate like the 7.3s are)

 

[mahatma171]

http://www.oilburners.net/articles/coolfilter1.html

This article was written for the IDI but it can be used on any diesel (or gasser for that matter) Napa will have everything you need except the angle iron/ flat stock to make a mount. or buy it here for cheap http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-filter-bases/24019.html

you might need some creativity as to where/how to mount the filter head. just plumb it into the heater lines and your good to go. I have one and i think its cheap insurence in keeping my brand new 500 dollar radiator clean. Oh and you can buy filters with SCAs in them (i also think all diesels should have SCAs in them, even though 6.5s arent really known to cavitate like the 7.3s are)

Very nice. When any one of us is putting an engine together, we need to make sure we got everything we need and also make sure we've covered all the ground that we can to avoid any mishappenings that could occur. Thank you gatorman21218 for the links and info.