Any help identifying this tick?

[Hydro-idi]

Kink the cDr hose it pressurizes the crankcase more and gives the pistons back pressure. If it's piston slop it will quite down because they won't be rattling on the way down. Ask me how I know that...it's hard to diagnose sounds from a video but my firsther idi sounded similar and would crank right up and ran like a champion but it had noise I couldn't figure out....until I tore the heads off and saw that there was .01 wear in each cylinder. Any blow by? Compression check?

Don’t do this unless you want every seal and gasket to start leaking. This is not a good idea and don’t know why someone would even recommend doing this. These engines have a free flowing CDR for a reason, and kinking the line does nothing good for your engine, nor does it solve any problems .

 

[Thewespaul]

And don’t expect to see instant results with the mmo. It took two oil change cycles (10,000 miles and nearly 20 gallons of oil) to get it fixed in the dt466.

 

[troy_caleb]

Don’t do this unless you want every seal and gasket to start leaking. This is not a good idea and don’t know why someone would even recommend doing this. These engines have a free flowing CDR for a reason, and kinking the line does nothing good for your engine, nor does it solve any problems .

Possibly I guess I meant for a couple of second just bend the hose. Not totally block of or plug and go drive around.

 

[MtnHaul]

Well I had a similar tick that sounded horrible when listening from under the oil pan, but it turned out to be my starter. The bendix had failed and the gear was bouncing off the flywheel. I was sooo happy it wasn't engine internals. Maybe you had the freak confluence of new old engine and weird starter failure. Best of luck.

 

[Skii]

Ok I've been here. Kinda. So mine was sputtering real bad, kinda sounded like a pitter-patter kinda sound once it warmed up, just overall ran kinda random. I was burning 1 qt of oil every 100 miles.

Tore engine down for rebuild to find 2 broken piston rings, like completely missing a 3/4 inch chunk broken. Both cylinder heads were cracked in different places between valve seats, causing intake/exhaust gasses to mix. My turbo inlet seal was also leaking, the main cause of my oil problem. Food for thought

 

[Macrobb]

Ok I've been here. Kinda. So mine was sputtering real bad, kinda sounded like a pitter-patter kinda sound once it warmed up, just overall ran kinda random. I was burning 1 qt of oil every 100 miles.

Tore engine down for rebuild to find 2 broken piston rings, like completely missing a 3/4 inch chunk broken. Both cylinder heads were cracked in different places between valve seats, causing intake/exhaust gasses to mix. My turbo inlet seal was also leaking, the main cause of my oil problem. Food for thought

I'd bet you the rings had more to do with the oil than the turbo seal; remember that the CDR pours oily gasses into the intake of the turbo, which is more than likely where your 'leaky seal' oil was coming from?

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I just drove it another hundred miles yesterday(some of it at 75MPH) - it made it there and back, and actually quieted down a little. At higher RPMs it's signifigantly better; at idle it's... better, slightly.
Still not fixed by any means, but certainly no worse.
It's obvious it's running on all cylinders, fires right up with only a bit of smoke, and doesn't seem to be using oil(at least, below the full mark - added an extra quart of MMO vs draining some to add it, and it burned/used/leaked it right down to the full mark within a couple of days. Hasn't gone below that, though...)

I'm still optimistic, and just running it every chance I get. I'll change the oil at around 500 miles or so; another couple weeks or long trips.

 

[Skii]

I'd bet you the rings had more to do with the oil than the turbo seal; remember that the CDR pours oily gasses into the intake of the turbo, which is more than likely where your 'leaky seal' oil was coming from?

---------------
I just drove it another hundred miles yesterday(some of it at 75MPH) - it made it there and back, and actually quieted down a little. At higher RPMs it's signifigantly better; at idle it's... better, slightly.
Still not fixed by any means, but certainly no worse.
It's obvious it's running on all cylinders, fires right up with only a bit of smoke, and doesn't seem to be using oil(at least, below the full mark - added an extra quart of MMO vs draining some to add it, and it burned/used/leaked it right down to the full mark within a couple of days. Hasn't gone below that, though...)

I'm still optimistic, and just running it every chance I get. I'll change the oil at around 500 miles or so; another couple weeks or long trips.

Well I wish I could say so, but I could visibly see the oil inside the compressor housing.... lining the intake manifold, ect. Not sure why that turbo seal failed....

 

[Skii]

Actually, possibly. I forgot the cdr valve was right in front of that compressor housing. Might actually have been it. Well ****, now that I've rebuilt the turbo....

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

And don’t expect to see instant results with the mmo. It took two oil change cycles (10,000 miles and nearly 20 gallons of oil) to get it fixed in the dt466.

Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff, but you should consider a dose of AutoRX too. Expensive but really cleans well.

 

[Macrobb]

Actually, possibly. I forgot the cdr valve was right in front of that compressor housing. Might actually have been it. Well ****, now that I've rebuilt the turbo....

Before I had my '88 motor rebuilt, I was using around the same amount of oil. I built a catch-can for the cdr tube(a can with baffles and some fish-tank filter stuff); I pulled a good 8 ounces of oil out of it within 50 miles. This was after replacing the CDR with a brand new one(I didn't know at the time that it's basically always open).
After rebuild, it was still oily in the intake, etc... but didn't lose a noticable amount in 2500 miles.

 

[Macrobb]

So... Weekly update. Still running, still noticable tick.
Used it to haul 3 1/2 tons of hay(probably 9K load, so 15.5K CGVWR. Crested a 6% grade in 4th(but losing it slowly) at around 50MPH. Pushing 10-ish PSI of boost.
Water temps got to 230F, then dropped once I got on the downhill. Still need a new thermostat - it seems to run about 10F hotter than normal(like 205 vs 195) under no load.

At higher RPM it quiets down, something it didn't originally do... but it doesn't change or go away from accelerating to decelerating, so I'm pretty darn sure that's not a bearing. Still think it's lifters.

I've lost a glow plug; it still starts decently on 7, but smokes from that 8th until it picks up a good 30+ seconds later.

Eh, works well enough. Needs more boost. WW2 time!