Any body got propane inj? Biodiesel?

84TD

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I already bought a PS2000 -Flame Thr for my truck but after reading this article.... http://www.mrsharkey.com/lpg.htm ... I am not sure if I want to install it. Looks like I wont get as much benefit out of it with an idi. I dont really tow anything, I bought it for the Power:peelout and Economy.

If youve done it, what kind of results are you getting?

Also I am just curious and :confused: about Alt Diesel Fuel...
 

towcat

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get a hold of zigg. he's done a homebuilt propane system on his NA motor. from what I hear, its a small boost but nothing as spectacular as bolting on a turbo. btw, years ago, propane was very common retrofit into older big-rig diesels due to the hills they had to deal with from norkal to sokal.
 

Agnem

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I disagree with that article in that I don't think that author is fully aware of the precup situation. They way he sees it, the propane is not present until the combustion process or "flame front" as he calls it exits the precup area. That would not be the case in our trucks. Due to the high compression and the fact that these are interference engines, virually all of the gas that was inhaled during the intake stroke is going to be present in the precup when the fuel is injected and the combustion takes place.
 

spencnaz

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I don't have propane on my turboed 6.9 but I do run biodiesel.

I make biodiesel myself using an appleseed-type processor. Depending on how much time I have I can really crank out the fuel.

The first thing I noticed when I started using biodiesel was that the engine was much much quieter and power delivery wasn't as abrupt as with petro diesel. This is due to the higher cetane and somewhat lower BTUs present in biodiesel. Of course there is the awesome smell of fried food coming from the tailpipe:D :thumbsup:

And yeah, talk to Zigg about propane. His system is very simple from the looks of it and it works very well for him. If I can find the time, I'd like to put a small propane system like his on mine.

I'm not in agreement with that article concerning N/A engines. They didn't mention the affect of turbocharging on a propane system in a N/A (perhaps that's because most of the turbo systems are aftermarket). All the fuel is going to be present in the precup when the cylinder is at TDC. If all the propane is in the precup from the intake stroke, then it's full effect is going to be obtained when the diesel fuel is injected into the precup.
 

jauguston

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I just read the linked article - way too much information!

I built a system for my NA 6.9 based on the Ziggster design. It made a noticeable difference in power and was well worth the effort. A $20.00 0-15psi propane regulator works fine to control the pressure.

A EGT gauge is a absolute necessity with propane injection, the EGT can get hot quick.

When I installed the turbo I was able to inject much more propane without things getting too hot and the power gain is more.

Jim
 

Exekiel69

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I have a propane system on My truck, is not like zigster but the basic is the same He's article is really good. I do not use anymore but only bc the turbo has all the power I need :D .
 

jauguston

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Exekiel,

There is no such thing as too much power!!!

The propane gives a much bigger power boost with the turbo than it did NA.

Jim
 

Nickbf2504x4

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I had built a homemade LPG setup for my last truck an 89 Ford f-250. It was a 5 speed with 4.10s and on it's best run, it got 19 mpg hand calculated with the lpg injection regulated at 2 psi, through an acetylene regulator. This was at 70 mph cruise controlled with the lpg constantly flowing, it also used about 1.5 gallons of LPG. The best my truck would get regulary was about 17. It was N/A at the time. Once turboed I put a boost switch inline with my system and turned up the 'pane. Results were awesome:thumbsup: til my motor cativated...:eek:

The power gain was noticeable, but not as much as a turbo obviously.
 

jauguston

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JR,

Propane injection is not about economy. It is used as a power booster only when needed. My system has a micro switch that is closed by the throttle linkage when the throttle is depressed to about 98%. I also have a master switch on the dash that arms the system and a 4 psi pressure switch in the intake hat that makes the connection to the propane solenoid only when the boost is at 4 psi or more.

Jim
 

spencnaz

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Consider Propane to diesel engines is like Nitrous Oxide in gasser engines.

If you have a turbo, you can get a pressure activated switch (such as a Hobbs switch) to open the solenoid valve on the propane tank to open at a prescribe boost pressure.
 

zigg

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The propane will give a noticeable power difference. I'm guessing about 20% by the seat of the pants-o-meter, but too much of a good thing can be disastrous. Definately have to have a pyro in the system if you're going to do this mod.
I've turned back my timing by about 2 degrees to somewhat stop the pre-detonation sounds that happen, and mine is also on a hobbs pressure switch so lpg can only run when the engine is up and running and oilpressure is above 20psi(engine not idling), is activated by a micro switch on the throttle at about 70%of travel, and has a manual override in the cab.
You can blow stuff up if not careful, so safety is important.
..Here's.. the article if you care to read...

This system was not my idea. I got most of the ideas from "Huff". You'll have to scrounge around for parts to put it together...RV places carry some lpg stuff, and places that do lpg conversions on cars/trucks, are a good bet.

If you do one, be careful, good luck!!

Zigg :)
 

84TD

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Thanks for all the replies!! ;Sweet

I am going to do it... After I will let you know how it turns out. :rock:
 

jauguston

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JR,

The hardest thing to find out when I built my system was how to tell when you had too much propane going in. I believe it was Zigg that set me straight. Increase propane flow until you here a rattle in your engine like the sound of a older car engine with poor gas and the timing set too far advanced - Spark Knock. Reduce the flow until the knock is gone and you are good to go.

EGT gauge is a must. Stay below 1250 degrees and it will go forever.

Jim
 

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