Another no start question

[Boltgun]

Hey guys first post here.
Anyway, I just got a new-to-me 89 F-250. I love the truck, but it refuses to start below 70F out. I hit all the glow plugs with a test light, they all checked out ok, replaced the GP solenoid (old one was cracked). Now the WTS light only lights up for about a second, and theres about 6-8 clicks coming from under the hood, but still no start.
If I plug the truck in it fires right up everytime, I'm guessing the GP controler?
thanks in advance,
-Ryan

 

[adam g]

I always check my glow plugs with an ohm meter. They should have between .5 and 1.5 ohms. or so. I have used a test light but one with high or low resistance will be hard to find.

 

[Full Monte]

What brand of glow plug are you using? It probably doesn't matter if they work, but Motorcraft/Beru glowplugs are deemed to be much superior to others.
I put a GM controller on my 85 and haven't had any trouble since.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

GM controller? Do tell more, how is it different form our solid-state controller (the 7.3 one), and why is it better?

 

[Alex S]

GM controller? Do tell more, how is it different form our solid-state controller (the 7.3 one), and why is it better?

lol well they do the same job, umm my brother has a 6.2 and a friend does also and they never have given them problems, the *seem* more reliable. wiring seems just as complicated but the thing that i prefer is that the glow plug light runs off the same power as the glow plus so its a bit easer to diagnose that the GP controller is screwed

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

 

[Agnem]

Is the GM system designed for 12 or 6 volt plugs? I don't think our 7.3 system is unreliable, but the reality is once the contactor wears out, it's going to fault as was indicated. When the wait to start light stays on only briefly, it indicates that there is too much resistance in the circuit. That resistance is often in the contactor (solenoid) itself. And while many may look the same on the outside, only the quality Motorcraft ones have the guts that actually work.

Looks like it should.....

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images

But when you get it all apart....

You must be registered for see images

It's toast due to poor design. This is an aftermarket one that does not contain the disc that prolongs the service life.

You must be registered for see images

 

[Boltgun]

Thanks for all the input guys, the plugs are Motorcraft, but I may change them out just for the piece of mind. I'll hook em to the ohm meter tonight and check the contoller ground while I'm at it.

 

[Alex S]

Is the GM system designed for 12 or 6 volt plugs?

6 volt

in fact 6.9/7.3 GP are interchangeable between the GM 6.2/6.5 there basicly the same. GM has some good self regulating plus that will not swell, i been thinking of getting them when the times comes but there a lil $$ and GM plus have a diferent plug as well, ford uses the bullet type and gm uses the flat spade type

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ford uses the spade on 6.9 engines so all you need is either harness from a 6.9 or a whole bunch of spade connectors to crimp/solder on your current harness.

 

[h2odrx]

Thanks for all the input guys, the plugs are Motorcraft, but I may change them out just for the piece of mind. I'll hook em to the ohm meter tonight and check the contoller ground while I'm at it.

So what did you find out?

PS welcome to OB!

Where in NC you at?

 

[Boltgun]

So what did you find out?

PS welcome to OB!

Where in NC you at?

Thanks for the welcome, the plugs checked out fine and the solenoids working like it should, so I guess its narrowed down to the controller. Honestly I'm just putting it on a momentary switch until next spring.

Oh yea, I'm in Huntersville, just north of Charlotte.

 

[h2odrx]

cool! I'm near morehead city!