alternator

[LCAM-01XA]

'92-'94 for the IDI-powered trucks, really if you have a serpentine belt then you also got the 130-amp alternator.

 

[rhkcommander]

I finally whipped out the camera and snapped a pic of the 3g alt. Needs painted but I cant bother with it since it works so good

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Coolness! Shoulda painted it before you install it, but you can spray it while it's on there too.

 

[rhkcommander]

Still planning on painting the housing, wasn't sure how to remove it and what color to paint it. Gloss black maybe? Dirt might show alot on that though. Maybe red

 

[sle2115]

You guys might want to take a look at this. There are some great tech articles in the tech article section.

 

[rhkcommander]

yeah it is one of the articles I read when doing this. Ford taurus has the same alt, at the junk yard they gave me the wires and no core fee for under 30 on a tested alt and I didn't have to pull it either.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Still planning on painting the housing, wasn't sure how to remove it and what color to paint it. Gloss black maybe? Dirt might show alot on that though. Maybe red

Ah darnit, I though I posted that write-up on the 3G disassembly and reclocking, guess I forgot Well I no longer have access to a spare 3G to take pictures of, but overall you wanna remove the VR first from the back of the alternator (four small torx sbolts), then the three long bolts on the perimeter of the alternator need removed and the rear half of the case comes off, then you can just pull the rotor out (remove the belt pulley first, lol), then if you're lucky the stator with the windings and the the rectifier soldered to it will easily come off the front half of the case but in case of corrosion it may need some persuasion before it does so, and what you're left with is the front half of the case with the bearing still in it, three bolts and a retaining plate later the bearing can be removed as well.

 

[rhkcommander]

and rebuild is likewise as easy? I can do that in no time, just helps to have a list of what to do. Who knows, maybe tomorrow I'll do 'er if I get my other work done still not sure if I should go with black paint or what..

Thanks for the tip, I can snag some pictures while I do it if you want help doing a writeup
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?p=451695#post451695
good info but different alt.

 

[Billyisgr8]

Pulleys don't usually slip on the shaft, they get impacted on and they are a mother to remove without an impact too, have yet to see one that got loose on its own. Belt slipping on the pulley you'd have heard by now, bug time loud screamer!

Mine just came loose, but it was still under the 2 year Napa warranty , 1 year old and 11000 kms on it. Got a new replacement no questions asked. It was the 95 amp version.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

and rebuild is likewise as easy? I can do that in no time, just helps to have a list of what to do. Who knows, maybe tomorrow I'll do 'er if I get my other work done still not sure if I should go with black paint or what..

Thanks for the tip, I can snag some pictures while I do it if you want help doing a writeup
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?p=451695#post451695
good info but different alt.

Well the only snag that I sometimes hit with the 3G is the stator being really badly stuck to the front half of the case - I never quite figured out if it's supposed to be that tight of a fit, or it's more of a corrosion issue than anything else, but if you do encounter it do NO try to pry the stator out by the rectifier chassis (the ring-thing that goes between the two halves of the case, it has the charging stud on it) - the rectifier is only held to the stator by four solder joints which purpose is actually only to connect the stator windings to the rectifier diodes, if you pry too ******* the rectifier chassis you will break those solder joints and they are the type that require a big soldering iron to repair. What I've found to work fairly decent on stuck stators is a long but thin punch, you insert that through the cooling openings on the front of the alternator and you position it carefully so it don't rest on the windings but on the stator plates behind them - it's somewhat of a tricky thing, as you don't have much space between the windings and the outer case, but once you shine a light down there you'll see exactly what I'm talking about - a few light taps with the punch (going around the perimeter of the case) should be enough to loosen up the stator to where it will either try to fall off on its own or you can pull it out by hand, but I once had to deal with this one beast that was stuck so badly that I had to heat the case with a torch and then literally pound the darn thing out of it - stator was junk, but I was after the case anyways, so I guess it all worked out.

 

[Agnem]

Split and reclocking....

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Mel, not the same alternator tho, if anything I find the 1G somewhat easier to split and reclock...

 

[rhkcommander]

Thanks Mel, Looks liek the same article I linked to. I'll get some pictures when i get a chanceto get it off but i have a problemo:

Been trying to figure out why my alternator belt keeps jiggling on the lower part (between alternator and motor pulleys, the 2nd(lower) half of belt) when the motor is running idle but tightens up as it revs. I replaced the belt cause I thought it was stretched, i tightened the belt as hard as i could with the help of a giant screw driver (like 2 & 1/2 feet long), and the new one jiggles too. ***?!

 

[rhkcommander]

just put a 175 amp fuse on my alt, gave it proper cabling, swapped battery mounts for new. need to get my volt meter out and see how well the batt's are doing. group 31's, I hope they're as strong as they say

still trying to figure out the slop at idle, is it just because the belts so long? no squeeling like a slipping loose belt either.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

They all flop like that man, it's an IDI thing, it has to do with the firing pulses transmitted to the crank. This is the same thing that makes ZF5 transmissions with a solid-mass flywheel have that somewhat-disturbing gear rollover sound at idle. When the engine picks up speed I guess the frequency of the pulses becomes too high for the belt and the transmission gears to react to it... You can fab up an idler for that section of the belt if you want to, some people have done it and report that it fixes the issue quite nicely, or you can do like me and run a shorter belt that goes between the alternator and the water pump pulley only - either way works.