Alternator help

[8gitmusik1]

DB Electrical may not be the highest quality, but their products seem to be pretty good. Several people recommend then and Power Master for starters. My self, I've bought a handful of three wheeler starters from them and the only time I had an issue with them was when I didn't realize that I had ordered for the wrong year. That's all the experience that I have with them, but i wouldn't hesitate to buy an IDI product from them.

IDIBRONCO,

Thanks for the input, diesel brother. Especially when it comes to suppliers and parts we ALL use. This first hand experience and advice, helps the whole forum and its users. Two Opposable, is that a word (?) , , THUMBS UP!

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[YJMike92]

YJMike92, Do us all a favor. Keep us ALL updated if ya use (sounds like your a Diesel Mechanic?) them so we ALL can save some money and still get some manufacturer direct parts at wholesale or, if they S*ck Eggs, let us know too. I'll post my findings over time as well.

I'm a car mechanic, (I just like my diesel's) Car parts or diesel parts I have been around long enough to know what works and what doesn't. There is just less and less good quality out in the market place. All these manufacturers or remanufacturers are out there trying to make a better profit by sacrificing quality. I'm always willing to try something on my rig to see if I can recommend it to my customers.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Yes, they are from Autozone....so the quality can be questionable.

I would eat worms before I bought anything electrical that came in a DuraCrap box. The warranty is great if you don't value your time and/or the value of starter/alternator/etc crapping out at the most in-opportune time (pulling a trailer, picking up wife/children, needing your truck in a snowstorm, etc). My last and final episode was the second starter on a gasser that started very easy. The factory one lasted twenty years, two Duralasts didn't make it 9 months combined. Four cylinder Rangers aren't exactly in my book (or anybody elses) for being ******* starters.

A-zone is ok for some stuff, but I've had my fill of bad electrical junk from them. If you can find a competent local shop to rebuild a factory unit, that's the best route, but it does seem those places are getting fewer and far beweener.

Your van deserves only the best stuff as unless you have a trio of garden gnomes at your disposal, they are tough to work on.

Good luck!

 

[DrCharles]

I have noticed in the last couple of years that Autozone has more defective parts right out-of-the box. Much less trouble at O'Reilly although their prices are slightly higher. You get what you pay for (sometimes)

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Short belt PN

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No issues. Just goes from WP to Alt. No crank pulley.

Wow that is short, thanks for the tip! I bet it vibrates a lot less at idle too, eh?

 

[IDI_Journeyman]

Just out of curiosity, I recently did a 3G alt swap on my 85 and Iv been running into an issue.

At night when I’m driving my clapped out ford home from school I notice the headlights and dash lights get real dim when I take off from a stop, then light up out real bright when the engine is spinning faster. Gets pretty annoying when I have to shift 4 times every time I get a red light. Anyone else run into this issue?

I feel like there is a part I can splice into the wiring harness that stores power to compensate for the amperage spike, but I can’t remember what it’s called. Any input is appreciated as always

 

[YJMike92]

A good set of batteries should be able to have the reserve to take care of that issue. Test your batteries and see if they are good. If the batteries are good and the problem started with the alternator swap I would be suspicious of the alternator.

 

[laserjock]

Just out of curiosity, I recently did a 3G alt swap on my 85 and Iv been running into an issue.

At night when I’m driving my clapped out ford home from school I notice the headlights and dash lights get real dim when I take off from a stop, then light up out real bright when the engine is spinning faster. Gets pretty annoying when I have to shift 4 times every time I get a red light. Anyone else run into this issue?

I feel like there is a part I can splice into the wiring harness that stores power to compensate for the amperage spike, but I can’t remember what it’s called. Any input is appreciated as always

Check all your cables and your headlight switch. Do the relay mod if you have not done so yet. The switch is probably the issue.

 

[laserjock]

Wow that is short, thanks for the tip! I bet it vibrates a lot less at idle too, eh?

Yup.