All of a sudden - Real hard start

Flagship

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Posts
80
Reaction score
0
Location
Hardin, MT
Hi all! First post here. I did a search, as best I could and, although I came up with something close (FlexNeck), it's not quite my problem. I'm hoping to get some help with starting my 89 7.3.

History: Until about half way through this winter, it started and ran just fine. Down to 9 F with no block heater. Didn't like starting real well, but start it did. I took it to dealership to have block heater installed. (That's another bad story).

Now: It *seems* like since it came back from the dealership, it won't start well at all (I hesitate to blame the dealer though). It turns over fast enough, thin white smoke comes from the tail pipe although it doesn't smell as strong as I think it should.

I ran a meter on 7 of the glow plugs (couldn't get to the last one). They checked good. Checked that the wire was hot while preheat was working. It was (is). I pushed in the schreader(sp) valve while cranking and fuel comes out. I did notice that I could not get any drain from the filter unless engine was running.

If I keep at it, wind it for 30 seconds, let it sit, wind it, so on, eventually it starts turning over quite fast and almost starts. If I stay at it, it will start and run very, very ragged until I speed it up. It then smooths out and runs like it should. If I park it for a couple of hours, it starts like it should. Overnight however, the process repeats.

That *has* to mean the fuel filter in not clogged. It *has* to mean the injectors are OK. It *has* to mean the IP is ok. Doesn't it?

I read about drain back and admit it feels like the system is filling with air. But how? Where? There are no fuel leaks anywhere that I can see.

Sure would appreciate help with this one.

Bart
 

Ironman03R

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Posts
2,193
Reaction score
128
Location
Risingsun, OH (NW OH)
Check your last GP. 1 will make a difference. After that, check all your injector return caps for leaks. You say it runs bad untill you speed it up, are you setting the fast idle before you start it? To do that, while your GP's are cycleing tap the accelerator once. That will set it.
 

hahn_rossman

Hahn Rossman
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Posts
137
Reaction score
0
Location
Seattle,WA
The real drag of leaking return lines is that they frequently leak air in, rather than diesel out! If they are old I'd replace them. The kit is cheap. Good luck!
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
Howlong do they stay on for? Glow plugs gotta stay on at least 8-10 seconds to start reliably in colder weather.
 

Flagship

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Posts
80
Reaction score
0
Location
Hardin, MT
Check your last GP. 1 will make a difference. After that, check all your injector return caps for leaks. You say it runs bad untill you speed it up, are you setting the fast idle before you start it? To do that, while your GP's are cycleing tap the accelerator once. That will set it.

Thanks for the responses!

Ironman, yes I am. By speed it up, I mean if it's cold, I have to really speed it up. I do wait for the oil pressure gauge to show full pressure then bring it up to around 1500 RPM. It clears up pretty quick then. Today, it was almost 70 degrees put. I still had quite a job getting it to start although it smoothed out fairly quickly.

Hahn_rossman, What is considered old? I have owned the truck for about a year and a half. The guy I bought it from had it for a year. 2 1/2 years considered old? I would guess that I remove all the highpressure lines and then the plastic caps? Does the kit contain new rubber lines to go between the injectors? Is there anything tricky about the job?

Diesel JD, the wait to start light stays on for about 10 seconds and the relay keeps clicking for oh, I'd guess 45 seconds or so.

Bart
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,292
Posts
1,129,831
Members
24,106
Latest member
lewisstevey7

Members online

Top