Alkyd Enamel - tractor and implement paint

Discussion in 'Paint and Body' started by ReticulateSplines, Sep 24, 2018.

  1. ReticulateSplines

    ReticulateSplines Full Access Member

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    I have never dealt with the stuff - but am I reading this correctly that is not UV stable and will chalk up and fade?

    What were all the old tractors painted with then, as the ones I have used or been around arent chalky. Faded, sure, but 40+ years old is gonna fade that is what happens to all things exposed to the elements and the sun.

    I am after a paint for a flatbed work truck that holds up well to demanding environments and looking to spray it myself. Not looking for fancy, probably black or dark gray. Was considering JD-BB but not if its going to fail in a short couple years!
     
  2. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    The main issue with the cheap implement paints I think is really the pigment. I painted my chassis with it and it sat outside for about a year and it did fade a bit. It’s a cheap paint job for sure and shoots nice and is reasonably tough when you catalyze it but it doesn’t like UV. One thing I’ve considered is applying clear over it. Clear coat is really the UV protection for a standard base/clear urethane paint job. The problem is mixing paint systems. The tractor supply stuff has a lacquer clear that can be applied over it after it thoroughly dries. I don’t know if the urethane clear would bond well or at all to the enamel.

    The tsc hardener seems to work fine with rustoleum enamels. Maybe they would have better pigments? I don’t know.

    Hope that helps.
     
  3. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    For an inexpensive Base/clear in a basic color, check out southernpolyurethanes otherwise known as SPI. The few straight colors they have are pretty reasonable.
     
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  4. Justin B

    Justin B Registered User

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    I've used the JD Blitz Black on my Harley to cover up all the chrome (Air cleaner, forks, shocks, lights, etc). Scotch Brite, some primer, and the Black. I did that about 5 years ago and the bike sat outside in Hawaii (lots of UV) for almost three years of those (no garage). The paint could use touching up from a few Rock chips on the forks, but the color and sheen (very light) has remained pretty much the same. I'm a huge fan of that paint.

    I think I paid $16 or so for a can, so IMO, that falls in the "fancy" category. Is powder coat out of the question?

    As said, there's some guys that use Rust-Oleum with hardeners mixed in.. the guys on Hot Rod forums chasing the perfect Hot Rod Flat Black have allot of info about that and how it works out.
     
  5. ReticulateSplines

    ReticulateSplines Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the input folks!

    @Justin B yes powder coat is out of the question. Not only am I going for coating on the entire cab body and flatbed, I do not like powder coat and refuse to use it. Very few cases I would use powdercoat for anything of my own.

    I am pretty sure I will be using a spray on urethane from U-pol. Toughness, ease of install and price factored over the rugged look - should work out. Thanks again for the input, will post back later with progress/results!
     
  6. laserjock

    laserjock Almost there... Supporting Member

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    If you are talking about raptor liner, you can thin it and shoot it with an hvlp gun if you don’t want so much texture. My cab floor I did the first coat with the texture gun, then the second coat with the hvlp and it’s not quite as aggressive as the Bedliner look.
     
  7. 1dieselman

    1dieselman Full Access Member

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    I used the Ford light gray implement paint from tractor supply with hardener on a car hauler trailer and at first it looked really nice but at this point I wish I would have repainted with the Napa industrial paint I used on it the first time. It chips and scratches off very easily. I even used their recommended primer.
     

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