Air conditioning upgrades?

[NapaBavarian]

Here is where I stand, if I go ahead and send my truck to have the AC redone with R12 at a shop it'll run $1500+, and I want cold AC for under a grand, I can do the work myself, but I want the coldest air possible with R134, has anyone seen a drop in kit that replaces everything and upgrades anything as needed? I looked through LMC and see many changes over the years, I wonder if upgrading to mid '90s parts would be worthwhile, or if I need to learn to live with what I have... I can't take another scorcher without good AC!

 

[dbarilow]

The word I've heard is that you should replace the compressor to make it work right.... But I did a R134 conversion on 2 of my fords an 881/2 escord and my 250 A/C runs cold. Its just a gamble for when the compressor will give up been 2 years on the 250 no problems. Make sure you ger the system evacuated b-4 you put the 134 in Auto Zone, Walmart and NAPA sell a kit you can even get 134 at Target

 

[Marks Garage]

I have retrofitted over a thousand r12 systems to 134a. As a rule, we only do systems from 1988 and up because of the higher pressures of 134a. Its easy, just by the retro kit, change your high and low side fittings, Open the empty system and add 8 oz of pag oil.Vacuum it down and recharge with 134a. In the kit there should be a chart to tell you how much to put in as it will hold a diff amount of 134a than r12. On the older systems we vacuum and recharge with Freeze 12 and don't need to change anything. My 1990 Centurion C350 IDI has f and r air converted to 134a and is just as cold as it was with r12.

 

[icanfixall]

If you know how to silver soldier or braze you can make your own vacuum pump from a refrigeration pump. Find an old 110 volt refer or a water cooler and just remove the black compressor. Now start it so you will know which side it sucks or blows from. Weld on shrader fittings and you ready to pull vacuum. I used the fittings from inner tubes or you can cut the tire valve stems apart on any car or truck wheel. Sure beats $200.00 plus for a vacuum pump. Mine pulls about 27 inches or vacuum. The $1500.00 price seems really high. R12 is about $20.00 per pound on the internet all day long. You can get a license from IMACA and buy it. They have a site, its www.imaca.org. I downloaded the testing material and paid the $15.00 to take it test. Gee wizz... I passed and have been buying R-12 ever sinse off the net. All you need to do when you buy this stuff is give the seller you certification license number and thats it. What you can't do is share the license with someone or mix freons. R 12 goes in R12 systems and 134a in 134a systems. If you mix Freeze12 and R12 NOBODY will work on your systems. Propane cools way better than anything but. Once its in nobody will work on your system again. Methane gas works fine too but that just cow farts. Any auto refergeration shop will sell all the parts you need.

 

[Joe Mc]

Just what is it they will do for the $1,500?

Just a recharge, or a full system replacement?

 

[NapaBavarian]

$1500 was what I expected to pay for system R&R then reload of R12, if someone sold a retrofit kit with everything I'd take it, as it is I may build my own, I don't want problems later, so I may simply replace everything. I'm debating going serpentine while I am at it, as it is my power steering pump leaks and need a new AC compressor.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Is the $1500 quote for replacing the compressor and rebuilding the entire system? Unless there are damaged components or something that seems high.

I can see money to replace the compressor and the receiver / dryer, then leak testing. Then replacing any leaking O-rings and doing a final fill. But in my head that doesn't add up to $1500 unless I am missing something.

 

[NapaBavarian]

What you are missing is simple...I live in Napa CA, where everything is made from GOLD! I don't dare even get a quote, I went to my dad, both of the cars he had done recently were in the $1500 ballpark, my system has been dead since long before I got the truck a year ago and I'm not interested in fixing it twice, so I want all wear parts replaced.

 

[yARIC008]

Well if you replace everything on it, it'll probably run you about 500-600 dollars.

Compressor 300 bucks
Condensor 100 bucks
Accumulator 30 bucks
orrifice tube 20 bucks
evaporator 150 bucks
R-134a 30 bucks.
New Orings all around 20 bucks

So looking at 650 bucks to replace everything.

That'll make your truck be like brand new...

I'd say if you want it to last for a lonnng time replace everything, if you want to it to run at least a few years, then replace it all except the compressor and just replace that when it goes out.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My truck is an 85 model with factory air.

About twelve years ago, I had it converted over to R-134.

It has the original compressor from 1985.

Since the change-over, I have added maybe one can of refrigerant every three years.

I always use the kind that has oil added.

I know nothing about the particulars of auto A/C.

I paid about $300 for the changeover; that includes gas and everything.

If anything, the 134 cools better than the 12 ever did.

Like all these trucks, I am plagued by an anemic blower-motor and have had no success finding a stronger blower.

Also, for years, I have intended to install a heater-hose bypass to turn the hot water away from the air-box in hot weather; but, it seems to cool good enough as is, at least for a Ford A/C.

Now my father's GMC, it will get bone-cracking cold in seconds; and, our old 73 Chevy will, and always would, freeze your tail off.

 

[RLDSL]

Definately, just replace all the parts and orings yourself, you can usually rent a vacuum pump from large equipment rental places, or if you have a good stout shop air compressor, those $20 harbour freight air powered vac pumps work nicely.
When replacing the orfice tube, get the variable orfice valve ( they sell them at NAPA, if really hot in your area get the 105 deg+ one, makes a world of diference ) also the heater bybass modification really works nice ( just did it on mine, was getting 48 deg out the duct on high recirc in mid '90's temp today , wouldn't do that before)

Before replacing a condensor or evaporator, you might want to run them by a radiator shop and have them tested for leaks, if none, flush out with AC flush , blow dry and put back in.

It wouldn't hurt to replace the hoses, but instead of buying overpriced complete hoses, find a hydralic hose shop and bring your old hoses in and have them put new rubber on your old ends, it will cost a fraction of what you would pay for new hose. If you don't have a place like that around, you can send them to the guy at www.nostalgicairparts.com and he'll make some nice ones up cheap. Even if not on the website, chances are he has a new compressor cheaper than you'll find anywhere else too, along with all the other parts

--------Robert

 

[bikepilot]

R-134 is less efficent at heat transfer and all things equal will not cool as well. The main problem is condensor capacity - 134 systems generally require larger condensors inorder to cool well at idle (where airflow is not so great). I've converted a few systems, but always stuck with the 12 whenever possible. If it were me, I'd either buy a compressor and condensor from a 94+ truck or stick with R-12.

just my 2c