a sollar oil heater for filtering WMO

Boston

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I'm working on an idea and thought that maybe if I think aloud I might nip some potential errors in the butt before they get the better of me

Ok so I want to heat oil as a kind of preconditioning for the filters in my WMO system

I've got a number of filter mediums all of which would benefit from higher viscosity oil ( warm oil ) say ~ 130 to maybe 200 deg.

There are a number of ways I could go about it. One might be to shunt coolant off the radiator to an inline heater for the oil, that one is dependent on engine temp and it would take a while to come up to temp. So I'd need to be on a road trip to filter out for the 8 to 10 hours it would take to work through 200 gallons/2. seems like its not very practical. Might disrupt optimal operating temp as well

I could take heat off the exhaust pipe either wrapping a coil of oil line around a section of pipe or by using some form of transfer medium that does the same. the transfer medium plan would require an additional pump

I could also use engine oil off a bypass from the filter but then again I'm playing with optimal operating temp.

To my one of the most intriguing methods is to use a solar system to passively heat the oil even when the truck isn't running. Going on the data it takes about 0.5 BTU to heat 1 pound of oil 1 degree F. If 200g or 1500lbs of oil starts out at a temp of 70°F and I want to get it up to say 130°F minimum for filtering then I will need 750 BTU's pr degree or 45,000 total.

I"ve got a converter on the way that generates a fair bit of heat but how many exact BTU's is a little of a mystery. In 1/2 hour of operation the Orion 12/24/10 increases over ambient temp 85°F and weighs about a pound. Hardly worth trying to take advantage of but just for fun its about 40 or so BTU's pr half hour. I'll bolt it to the tank somewhere but its not making much progress on that 45,000 I need to see.

much of the following data is from these links
and thanks Gary for the info ( other forum )

The SRCC publishes the output in BTU for each certified panel for sunny, mildly sunny, and cloudy conditions.


You can get all the test results here:

http://www.solar-rating.org/ratings/ratings.htm

Download the "Directory of SRCC Certified Collectors"


Here is a page with my thoughts on how to read/use the data:

http://www.builditsolar.com/References/Ratings/SRCCRating.htm

In Colorado on a sunny day I might roughly be able to expect 2000BTU's/sqft of solar collector at 100% efficiency. If my system comprised 3 sq/ft and was 50% efficient it would take about a day and a half to heat the oil to 130°F from 70°F. In my book that is totally acceptable cause this truck is pretty much living outdoors and is in the sun constantly. If I insulate the shaded portion of the tank and assume losses and inefficiencies of an additional say 25% I would be looking at about three days before I could begin filtering fluid at its optimal temp.

( OOPS I forgot a zero or something, gotta go to work but I'll go back through it later and correct it soonest )

So the next question is how fast can I heat fluid through the passive heating element and is it sufficient to feed the filters directly. The centrifuge is rated at 55G/hr or 1/4 of the tank capacity so no way a 3sq/ft passive heating element is going to do the trick. I could filter through the physical elements and bypass the centrifuge on the first pass while running the filter speed at a slower rate, say whatever the 3sq/ft could provide at minimum optimal temperature.

Ok so 3000 BTU's a day or ( calculating for 8 hrs full sun a day ) 375 BTU's/hr less losses cause I'm not storing the heat, but instead sending it through the filters immediately. 375 at 0.5 BTU's pr lb is 750 lbs of oil raised 1°F or raising 12.5 lbs of oil/hr (1.6 gallons/hr ) 60°F which is not enough. I'd need more sq/ft of collector to be able to heat oil fast enough to filter fast enough to run the truck continuously. but it does work fine for the majority of my needs, and it doesn't require that the truck be running which is great.

so works great unless I"m on a road trip in which case I'm pretty much going to have to use an inline heater of some kind and steal heat off the engine.

what all that means is that I'm going to take a radiator off a junker paint it black and convection loop it into the system for a few days before I begin filtering. I'll mount it on the ex steel cage going over the filter stuff. Should look kinda cool.

Oh almost forgot
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in line heat exchanger would go just under the DC motor and pump head suspended on a couple of bolts through the motor base or it would also fit just between the two lower filter units.
 
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Boston

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Ok lets see if I can find my error

2000 BTU's per day per sq/ft

6000 over 3 sq/ft per day

50% efficiency on a passive solar system is pretty darn low but I'm sticking with it.

3000 BTU's per day and I need 45,000 BTU's total

takes 15 sunny days to heat the oil sufficiently

not good

I either need a larger passive system or an inline heater able to heat one gallon a minute.

one gallon = 7.5 lbs and it takes 0.5 BTU's to heat one lb one degree F so 235 BTU's to heat one gallon of oil to 130°F from 70°F pr/min
so 13,500 BTU's pr/hr

one watt is 3.41 BTU's pr/hr so 13,500 BTU's = ~4000 watt heater if I used an electric

Yikes
OK so has anyone actually measured the temp of there oil trying to heat it off the engine, cause thats a lot of heat to be stealing and not have it cause some abnormally low temps.

I'm thinking that using the heat off the exhaust is the only source of energy sufficient to heat a gallon of oil a minute
 

93cc7.3

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you could warp a copper coil around a large section of your exhaust and then wrap over that with header insulation wrap that would keep way more heat in the exhaust and coil
 

Boston

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ya I was thinking something like that but my concern is that when the system isn't filtering then oil is sitting in there heating till something gives. I think I'd have to shunt exhaust gas up into a heat exchanger or something, although I prefer the simplicity of the tail pipe wrap.

I could just give up on it being independent system and plug it in to the house from time to time. Even if I was out on the road I could just go to a camp site and tell em I need one with a 110 handy.

I appreciate the ideas tho cause I'd rather keep the thing self sufficient.
 

towtruckdave

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Why dont you just use an inline heater with a glow plug and a thermostat? Or maybe you want a heater that is easy to spot from an airplane like the rest of your setup? :rotflmao:rotflmaoLOL;Really
 

Boston

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oh hahaha ;-)
The glow-plug heaters kinda ***** me. Something about a 1000+ degree element and a 900 degree flash point. I'll look up some designs but most of the ones I'm familiar with look really dangerous.
 

George_7.3IDI

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I've got a number of filter mediums all of which would benefit from higher viscosity oil ( warm oil ) say ~ 130 to maybe 200 deg.

Not a big issue but your terminology is backwards. Higher Viscosity = Thicker Fluid. Lower Viscosity = Thinner Fluid. Looks like everyone understood what you meant but you might confuse some people when you start saying high viscosity as in easier flowing and easier filtered.

George
 

Boston

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thanks for the tip
B

now if only I had an English teacher handy ;-)
 

BioFarmer93

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Boston,
Couple of things.. If you coil some copper pipe around the exhaust pipe like 93cc7.3 said, even if the pump was off the oil would still thermosiphon on through. If you did this anywhere other than immediately behind the Y-pipe there would be very little danger of bad things happening due to heat loss from the exhaust pipe between headers and your coil, which one would assume to be placed as close as possible to the tank to minimize heat loss between those two. (Like under the front of the bed.) About glow plug heaters; in an engine they're getting that hot because there is nothing but air around them, when submersed in oil they don't get anywhere near that hot because of the oil constantly wicking away that heat at a tremendous rate, not acting as an insulator like the air does. A 4 glowplug heater using our 6 volt zd9's would work well if you electrically isolated each of the units with fuel hose and series-paralelled the plugs so they each only saw 6 volts. I run straight 12 volts on my single ZD9 plug heater with no problems at all, and had an interesting conversation with a fellow outside of the auto parts store about his GP heater (also homemade) that he accidentally left on all night to no ill effect except a run down set of batteries.
 
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