94 7.3 turbo runs rich under load need enlightenment

[J.P.]

Pyros run up going up a grade so I have to back my foot out of the pedal to keep it under 1150deg. I understand what you are saying about lean and rich I should have said unburned fuel but thanks I will call Dragrag later back to work

 

[1994IDI]

OK OK the pics of the engine are posted, among other things I'm running a r/t and when I can get a CDR I will try it put back together. I believe ECVPaul purchased the engine from Dragrag to whom I sent a message. so for now on to other things, like I ordered a boost gauge now I need to know where to hook it up the Turbo is ATS as seen in the pics and as far as the running rich under load I'm think, 1 to have the timing checked again so I know where it is and have the pump pressure checked to see where it is, so I have a good starting point, also can some one direct me on where to get info on the turbo, does it have a waste gate? is it adjustable etc? Oh and FYI the rig is a 1985 Ford Jayco Mini 25 E-350 with this 1994 IDI 7.3 with ATS turbo Thanks again for your help

Welcome to OB.

As far as where to install the boost gauge: Plumb it into the intake snail. This is the round metal cap that is mounted between your turbo and the top of your intake manifold. If it is an ATS, there should be a small cap right in the middle of it. Just remove the cap, and plumb in you boost hose. My Autometer boost gauge came with the fitting I needed.
Get your timing checked again, but ask them what method of timing they are using, then post back here and explain to us what procedure they did so we can verify. There is "pulse" method, and the "luminosity" method. Folks will argue to the end of time on this forum about which one's better, but the fact is they are just different, both with their own discrepencies. "Pulse" clamps a fuel line and reads the pulses in conjuction with the piston position, while "luminosity" removes a glowplug, and inserts a meter in there. Those aren't perfect explainations obviously, but it hopefully give you a general idea. 8.5* advanced is factory setting under "pulse", if I remember correctly. Most guys (myself included) like it around 9.5*. I am not sure of the numbers w/ "luminosity".
If you post us a pic of the turbo, it will be the easiest way for us to point out if and where you will find the wastegate. If it does have one, it is adjustable.
Good luck, we'll look to hear back from you, and we really like pictures around here.

 

[J.P.]

OK where to start, there are pics of the Turbo in my gallery it is a Non- waste-gate model I have p/n's etc if anyone is interested, I had a Great Conversation with Dragrag today, lets just say small world, this was one of his engines out of an Ambulance and the turbo came off the 6.9 that it replaced. He is thinking that the timing may be OK but I will get it checked anyway but believe turning down the pump may do the trick. I will look for the cap for the gauge if there is not one, I can just Drill and tap right? yes I would remove or do the old grease trick, since its tight it will be easer to remove anyway. I have to say this is one *****'in (dating myself) website with a great bunch of helpful people Thanks

 

[DragRag]

Yup small world, make sure and ask your buddy if he knows my mom Verna, or anyone with the last name of Canada or Grabeel.

 

[J.P.]

you got it

 

[icanfixall]

I believe there is a pick a part up near you. They might have any parts you need in the future. If not try the pick a parts on Milliken in Ontario just down the 15 from you.. They are about 1 mile north of the milliken exit off the 60 freeway.... I'm out there several times a month... Just shopping for goodies.....

 

[J.P.]

OK back to one of my original questions I forgot about now that we know what engine I have are BB injector the correct one Thanks

 

[towcat]

OK back to one of my original questions I forgot about now that we know what engine I have are BB injector the correct one Thanks

to be brutally honest...it doesn't matter what injectors they are as long as they all are the same. all they are is a poppet valve that can tolerate a fair amount of heat and pressure.

 

[J.P.]

OK I finally have some time to play, I removed the Cap from the intake and there next to the inlet is a 1/8 allen plug starring right at me, problem is its froze in and yes I am using a quality MAC 3/8 drive allen I was thinking of using heat or what is the best product to soak it in or ???

 

[OLDBULL8]

Just use any good penetrating oil, WD40 is not to good for that. Always try to tighten any screw,nut,bolt or whatever thats froze, just enough to hear it crack or move, then back it out, that normally works.

 

[J.P.]

OK its been awhile so here's an update: I found some time (like all day) Sunday to install the boost gauge and pyro up on the dash where I can see them, I also turned the pump down 2 "flats" and went for a test drive now it smokes more like a Diesel should (no Smokescreen) and the EGT's are down while the boost tops out around 7 lbs and averages between 3 to 5 on slight grades, my opinion is that I could turn the pump back up 1/2 flat and see a little more boost, at this point I am going to make a run to Quartzite AZ in a couple of weeks so before I adjust I will see how it does, I still don't know where the timing is set for sure but after a discussion with Dragrag we think it is OK. Just an FYI This set up is in a 1985 Jayco 25' Motor home with an approx. weight of 11,000# I want to Thank everybody for their help, while I consider myself a fair shade-tree the world of diesel is new to me and I always enjoy learning something new this is just the greatest website

 

[J.P.]

Ok this is where I am now, I made the trip to Quartzsite AZ going up towards Desert Center I pulled the worst part of the grade at around 48 mph 6# boost and 1000 Egt with my foot buried in the carpet, so when I came home I went ahead and turned the pump up 1 Flat, todays test drive up the closest grade it held speed between 45 and 50 but felt stronger Egt of 1100 and as I came over the top the boost topped out at 8# before I had o slow down or run somebody over on both occasions smoke was what I would call normal ( in other words I could see the car directly behind me) so at this point I think its dialed in, unless anybody has some other suggestions or comments, until I can get the timing checked just cause I want to know what it is. I will post some pics of the motor home when I get a chance. thanks for your help everybody

 

[J.P.]

Ok I thought that it was time for an update, been busy etc. Motorhome has been on several trips since my last posts, and several adjustments later. My frist suggestion to anybody, as I am sure that those of you that have been doing this awhile will agree, is to have your timing checked before you do anything else. Had I done this to begin with I could have saved a lot of time. As it stands now the IP is turned up all the way and the timing is around the 8 degree mark. The mileage is not as good as I thought it could be but it is an 11000# vehicle shaped like a box. 10 to 11.5 on the hwy at 65+ and 8 to 9 towing a trailer loaded with quads, gas, water, and firewood etc. Gets a little better cruising slower. I am getting 12# boost out of the turbo and can pull most grades under 1100 egts normal cruising egts are between 600 and 900, less on level ground. At this point I think I am done messing with it and just drive and enjoy. I do want to thank everybody for all their helpful input I could not done it without you. Thanks J.P.

 

[typ4]

Is it intercooled?

 

[OLDBULL8]

You say the timing is around 8*, you would be much better if it was around 9.5* to 10*.
Center punch a mark between the IP mounting flange and mount, then move the IP to pass side about 1/32", see if that doesn't make the engine run better, maybe a little more power, and less white smoke if your still getting some.