94 7.3 non turbo wont start cold.

[turbobrick563]

so i just picked up a 1994 f350 with the non turbo 7.3idi. 3rd owner. got it from a friend who got it from his brother the original owner. the problem that it has is that it wont start if its been sitting for a day or more. everything works on it, glowplugs, the starter is still good. the only way it will start is if you spray a tiny bit of starting fluid in it. ( yes i know its bad for it but im not here for you to tell me how bad and what it can do. i already know.) once its running it runs fine. you can shut it off and as long as it doesnt sit off all day it will start right up with no starting fluid. now my friend who i got the truck from thinks it could be the fuel heater, would a bad fuel heater make it not start when the engine is cold? it has 141,000 on the odometer.


let me know what you guys think it could be.

 

[hesutton]

It's not the fuel heater.

Does it start, then die and then won't start again? Or........ it won't hit a lick at all when cold?

How old are the injectors and injection pump?

How long does the wait to start light stay on? Sure the glow plugs are functional?

Stop the "nose spray".......... it should not need it....... only emergency need to start kind of deal.


Report back.


Heath

 

[swervyjoe]

I don't have a fuel heater on either of my pickups and they start fine. Probably a return line issue.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. The fuel heater has nothing to do with a cold start. Mostly the heaters are a do nothing item. Look at the top of the filter head. Is there any wetness. If so its usually the o-ring to the heater. An easy fix. Also look at the injecters for any wetness too. If any look wet then you need an return line kit. Also easy to fix. Any wet areas will be a fuel leak and allow the fuel to run out or drain down so its hard to prime and start.

 

[turbobrick563]

It's not the fuel heater.

Does it start, then die and then won't start again? Or........ it won't hit a lick at all when cold?

How old are the injectors and injection pump?

How long does the wait to start light stay on? Sure the glow plugs are functional?

Stop the "nose spray".......... it should not need it....... only emergency need to start kind of deal.


Report back.


Heath

im not sure how long but i will go out and check in a few minutes. and when the engines cold it will just crank and not fire at all. as far as i know the injectors and pump have not been changed. but i wouldnt think that is the problem because when it runs it runs great.

 

[hesutton]

If those are original to the truck, they are way overdue for replacement. The timing is likely very retarded secondary to the age, wear, mileage in the IP and that will certainly hurt the starting. But, I'd bet something else is playing a part in the starting issue.

Do you smell diesel fuel at all under the hood? Like said above....... any wet spots on the injector caps or return lines?


Let us know about the glow plugs too.


Heath

 

[Hardy41]

I had the same problem when I bought my 86 diesel. I bet you have a few or all of the glow plugs that aren't good. Or like stated above, a return fuel line issue.

 

[icanfixall]

So when your cranking to start do you see any white smoke from the tail pipe. If so your glow plugs are not working. Any engine that cranks cold and no fire is no plugs or no fuel or both. Finding out why is the next thing to do. Now thinking the plugs are good figureing out if they work is another issue these engines have. The power to the glow plug controller is fed by two connected yellow wires in the main engine wire harness. On my truck the main wire harness to engine engine is on the passenger side. check that big harness plug. If its corroded or melted thats from the glow plug power draw. Many bypass that plug and run a 6 gauge wire from the solenoid on the fender directly to the controller. Some even install a breaker. Please be careful working on that wire or solenoid. Its always got full battery power to it just like the alternater has. Find this hard to believe just follow the cables to the battery. Several other places that are always hot wires too.

 

[riotwarrior]

im not sure how long but i will go out and check in a few minutes. and when the engines cold it will just crank and not fire at all. as far as i know the injectors and pump have not been changed. but i wouldnt think that is the problem because when it runs it runs great.

Welcome to OB, hopefully we can get you well on your way.

Take some time, READ the FAQ's as they are important for new members, it helps cover lots of things and gives you answers to questions and helps you ask informed questions. Also look at the TECH section as it does the same, lastly peruse the Hall of Shame so you keep yer hard earned dollars in yer pocket and not that of some unscrupulous vendor.

Now it goes something like this..

Just cause it runs great to you, does not mean it runs great, compared to a great running truck!

Lets look at this logically shall we.

Truck runs and starts when warmed up time and again no issue, Correct?

Truck doesn't start when cold less you feed it crack in a can.

Thus you have to me a symptom of bad glow plugs, or low compression, or air intrusion.

Pull and check the glow plugs, USE ONLY MOTORCRAFT BERU ZD9's any other ones tend to burn up more than Beru. Check glow plug relay as well and the wiring to it. There should be a large plug on the passengers inner fender with two yellow wires that tend to melt. There is an option of running a single 4gua wire in place of those silly yellow wires. Check the TECH section for info it may be there!

Get a return line kit from Mel at Conestoga Diesel or from Russ, Typ4 here both sell fantastic kits, and redo all your return lines and perhaps just to make sure your golden replace all your injector O rings and caps and new hose!

As for a Pump and Injectors, if they are original then new ones would not hurt. Again, Mel or Russ depending on which side of the continent your on!

Timing is an issue as the pump wears and injectors wear this retards timing, check out the many threads on timing, or contact Gary (Icanfixall) about his timing meter rental program to rent a meter and time your truck. I know my truck which had under 200K on it was 2 degrees off and it made a big difference when I timed it.

Please understand most here have heard or seen or personally dealt with most any issue you could come with, and collectively there isn't a better place for info on these trucks.

Again Welcome to OB

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Well said Al. Its posting like this that seperates us from the rest. I know its easy to just say take it to a mechanic cause you have no idea what your doing. But thats not what this forum is about. All of us were in this same place and we understand that feeling. Helping others to understand and learn so they can pass it along later is history. We make history every day here. I also learn something here all the time too. Its amazing what I don't know sometimes. 16,600 posts really means nothing when I can learn something new just by reading whats posted here.

 

[riotwarrior]

Well said Al. Its posting like this that seperates us from the rest. I know its easy to just say take it to a mechanic cause you have no idea what your doing. But thats not what this forum is about. All of us were in this same place and we understand that feeling. Helping others to understand and learn so they can pass it along later is history. We make history every day here. I also learn something here all the time too. Its amazing what I don't know sometimes. 16,600 posts really means nothing when I can learn something new just by reading whats posted here.

Thanks Gary!

Been a tad busy as you can tell on the Muscateer. This has made me not so active in this section, though I be keeping an eye on it

Totally ready for some super cleaning and then paint and such next week. I'm gone this weekend doing some camping and SAR practice, GPS/Compass training for members and maybe throw a few curve balls in there too!

I'm still leaning hard and heavy to a combination of lower compression/gp issues for the OP and when I say GP issues could be the plugs themselves or controller or combination of the system parts as a whole.

I'd say lower comp is playing somewhat of havoc here too, in as much as if it was good it should fire even without GP's

Honestly I'd strongly encourage OP to pull all GP"s and do a comp test, and once those results are in you can then procede with repairs/replacement to GP's as needed.

JM2CW

Al