79jasper
Chickenhawk
The rear axle should be a 10.25".
At least that's what everyone calls them.
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At least that's what everyone calls them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
'93 F-250 Won't Move Forward or Reverse
- Thread starter tonyj54
- Start date
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Well for any manual swap you'll need the manual pedals for a '92-'96 truck (gas or diesel doesn't matter), then a master cylinder, a hydraulic clutch line (preferred choice is the stainless line for a '95-'96 Powerstroke diesel truck), and whatever slave cylinder your new transmission calls for. Possibly a crossmember for the transmission mount. Definitely driveshaft, the E4OD is silly-long while the manuals are much shorter. Most people go for the ZF5 manual transmission, that one I'd estimate around $1000 for a used transmission and new clutch and flywheel alone, all the aforementioned parts add on top of this. If you don't care much for overdrive gear, or you're on a tight budget, there are the older 4-speed transmission, those tend to be much cheaper than the ZF5. You have your choice of T19 (with three different gear ratios to choose from), NP 435 (has creeper 1st gear), and T18 (also creeper 1st gear). Only the close-ratio T19 was standard behind IDI engines and IMHO it works quite well and is pleasant to drive, but really as long as you have an IDI bellhousing in your possession you can run any of these transmissions with the same clutch setup, basically mix and match till you get what works best for you. The main issue with any of these 4-speeds is the relatively high engine speed they need to keep up with interstate traffic, even with 3.55 axle gears the truck will top out at around 80mph (slower with 4.10 gears), and that's with the engine screaming at 3200 rpms chugging fuel at like 10mpg. At 55-60mph she should pull 15mpg consistently tho.
On the automatic side you have the 3-speed C6, situation there is similar to that with the 4-speed manuals in that she slows your truck down and makes it thirsty at high speeds. But again like the 4-speeds she's very tough and reliable, and fairly cheap as well. There is also the option for Allison automatic, that one will have to come from a school bus or a medium-duty truck, it's a 4-speed automatic but no OD gear like the E4OD, so think of it as a heavier-duty C6 with an extra lower gear. Neither of these transmissions is a very suitable choice for something that goes on the interstate a lot, but for hard work on back country roads both will work well.
Regarding your E4OD question, even if all connectors came unplugged completely an E4OD will still have reverse and be able to move forward in 2nd and 4th (OD) gears. This is a hydro-mechanical backup built into the transmissions, so truck can still be operated if needed in case of emergency. The fact that you got no motion forward or rearward tells me it's not an electrical issue, something important broke inside the transmission. Trackspeeder says forward clutch, he knows these transmissions very well so he's likely correct.
If wheels and tires have unknown history, this is all the more reason to have them checked out.
As for the hub seals, that Timken will work on both 2wd and 4x4 trucks as long as the rear axle is of the Sterling variety. The 10.25 number Jasper mentioned refers to the size of the ring gear (big gear bolted to the differential) inside said axle, it's 10.25" in diameter. Later Sterling axles go ta slightly bigger ring gear, 10.5" in diameter. But your truck will have the 10.25" Sterling rear axle, it's simple to work on and can take a lot of abuse without complaining (as long as there is enough oil inside). Another good seal for it is the Scotseal XL, it's quite similar to the Timken seal in design (and price I think), just different manufacturer.
On the automatic side you have the 3-speed C6, situation there is similar to that with the 4-speed manuals in that she slows your truck down and makes it thirsty at high speeds. But again like the 4-speeds she's very tough and reliable, and fairly cheap as well. There is also the option for Allison automatic, that one will have to come from a school bus or a medium-duty truck, it's a 4-speed automatic but no OD gear like the E4OD, so think of it as a heavier-duty C6 with an extra lower gear. Neither of these transmissions is a very suitable choice for something that goes on the interstate a lot, but for hard work on back country roads both will work well.
Regarding your E4OD question, even if all connectors came unplugged completely an E4OD will still have reverse and be able to move forward in 2nd and 4th (OD) gears. This is a hydro-mechanical backup built into the transmissions, so truck can still be operated if needed in case of emergency. The fact that you got no motion forward or rearward tells me it's not an electrical issue, something important broke inside the transmission. Trackspeeder says forward clutch, he knows these transmissions very well so he's likely correct.
If wheels and tires have unknown history, this is all the more reason to have them checked out.
As for the hub seals, that Timken will work on both 2wd and 4x4 trucks as long as the rear axle is of the Sterling variety. The 10.25 number Jasper mentioned refers to the size of the ring gear (big gear bolted to the differential) inside said axle, it's 10.25" in diameter. Later Sterling axles go ta slightly bigger ring gear, 10.5" in diameter. But your truck will have the 10.25" Sterling rear axle, it's simple to work on and can take a lot of abuse without complaining (as long as there is enough oil inside). Another good seal for it is the Scotseal XL, it's quite similar to the Timken seal in design (and price I think), just different manufacturer.
tonyj54
Registered User
Okay, cool. Thanks, guys, for the explanations.
Speed doesn't really concern me with this rig, because it's either going to be hauling farm stuff (like hay, small to medium livestock, small to medium implements, fencing, poles, etc), whether in the bed or on a trailer; or, it will have the camper aboard. Either way, we're usually in no big hurry. If so , we'll take the Mustang.
At the moment, it looks like we'll end up rebuilding the E4OD, unless something literally falls into our laps.
I'm definitely gonna pull wheels and tires. I've been encouraged to go to 8-lug, 19.5's, load range G, anyhow, due to the camper. So, I'll be looking at that as a probability , too.
My druthers would be a 98-ish 7.3 IDI dually, with manual transmission and 4WD. I'd love to have the granny first gear option. Makes it easier to creep into the boondocks, or down to hard-to-access campsites. But, my lottery luck appears non-existent, so I LOVE my beastie.
Speed doesn't really concern me with this rig, because it's either going to be hauling farm stuff (like hay, small to medium livestock, small to medium implements, fencing, poles, etc), whether in the bed or on a trailer; or, it will have the camper aboard. Either way, we're usually in no big hurry. If so , we'll take the Mustang.
At the moment, it looks like we'll end up rebuilding the E4OD, unless something literally falls into our laps.
I'm definitely gonna pull wheels and tires. I've been encouraged to go to 8-lug, 19.5's, load range G, anyhow, due to the camper. So, I'll be looking at that as a probability , too.
My druthers would be a 98-ish 7.3 IDI dually, with manual transmission and 4WD. I'd love to have the granny first gear option. Makes it easier to creep into the boondocks, or down to hard-to-access campsites. But, my lottery luck appears non-existent, so I LOVE my beastie.
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
You'll have as much in those 19.5s as you spent on buying the truck. Is the camper 2500lbs empty or fully loaded ready to go camping with full water tanks and what not? 2500 empty can easily mean 3500 full, depending on how much stuff you take with you. Still I don't thing you'll need 19.5s for it, a pair of 265-75-16s in range E will have capacity of 3400lbs each for combined of 6800. Figure around 2000-2300 lbs empty truck, that's 5500-5800 loaded, which is still 1000 lbs below your tires capacity. Rough estimates obviously, but you get the idea. And keep in mind the camper doesn't load just the rear axle, part of its weight usually transfers to the front also, so that's a bit easier on the rear axle.
If the stars are aligned properly all that's required for a manual swap can be acquired in a weekend without too much running around. But there is definitely the convenience of just having a shop pick up the truck on a rollback truck and carry it away and do all the work for you. Plus while many of us here do our own wrenching, I realize not everyone is physically capable of doing so in every situation, flywheel in particular is quite heavy - we can give you all the info and advice you want, but that does you little good if physical help is what you need most due to, say, joints pain or damage... Obviously you can still have a shop do the swap for you to alleviate that, but there is still the downtime for collecting parts - stars are rarely aligned for a successful weekend assault I mentioned earlier. And if you need your truck now... Plus rebuilding the E4OD gets you a WARRANTY, not so much with used 4-speeds and such. Which is why I have 3 of them, looking for #4 now
By the way a factory IDI stickshift with a creeper doesn't exist, as far as I know they all got the close-ratio (non-creeper 1st gear) 4-speeds and 5-speeds. So pretty much have to make your own, unless you luck out and find one that's already been done by someone.
If the stars are aligned properly all that's required for a manual swap can be acquired in a weekend without too much running around. But there is definitely the convenience of just having a shop pick up the truck on a rollback truck and carry it away and do all the work for you. Plus while many of us here do our own wrenching, I realize not everyone is physically capable of doing so in every situation, flywheel in particular is quite heavy - we can give you all the info and advice you want, but that does you little good if physical help is what you need most due to, say, joints pain or damage... Obviously you can still have a shop do the swap for you to alleviate that, but there is still the downtime for collecting parts - stars are rarely aligned for a successful weekend assault I mentioned earlier. And if you need your truck now... Plus rebuilding the E4OD gets you a WARRANTY, not so much with used 4-speeds and such. Which is why I have 3 of them, looking for #4 now
By the way a factory IDI stickshift with a creeper doesn't exist, as far as I know they all got the close-ratio (non-creeper 1st gear) 4-speeds and 5-speeds. So pretty much have to make your own, unless you luck out and find one that's already been done by someone.
tonyj54
Registered User
So, here is my Beastie.
Here is the tag on the transmission. Any info on this?
And, here is the elusive electronics connector.
Okay, let's try this.
Ah, much better.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is the tag on the transmission. Any info on this?
You must be registered for see images attach
And, here is the elusive electronics connector.
You must be registered for see images attach
Okay, let's try this.
Ah, much better.
Last edited:
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Says "invalid attachments" for me, not sure what that means or how it happens but it's not uncommon situation here. Any chance you can upload the pictures to a hosting site like photobucket or imageshack, then post here links to them?
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The vital info from your tag is gone.
Could be original or a later Ford rebuild. Later rebuilds use a bar code tag.
Could be original or a later Ford rebuild. Later rebuilds use a bar code tag.
tonyj54
Registered User
Yeah, I was just wondering about the EA that's still visible. Did Ford build a transmission with an EA designator? If so, could this have been a switch-out?
77f250diesel
Full Access Member
Tony, There's a forum member here by the name of gonecrazyi (Billy) who has a recent rebuild e4od he was looking to sell.
He also had 4 spds and zf-5.
Not sure where your located down here but he's over around Deltona.
He's a busy guy so it might take a few days for him to get back to you.
PM him or scroll through the marketplace for his add (back a few months), PM me I might have his phone #.
Found it !......http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?64708-Clearing-out-some-of-the-hoard
Dennis
He also had 4 spds and zf-5.
Not sure where your located down here but he's over around Deltona.
He's a busy guy so it might take a few days for him to get back to you.
PM him or scroll through the marketplace for his add (back a few months), PM me I might have his phone #.
Found it !......http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?64708-Clearing-out-some-of-the-hoard
Dennis
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trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
"EA" is part of Ford's coding. Its followed by a couple more letters and numbers. This is the model and year info.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
FWIW, my E4OD crapped out on me at a left turn light back in December. Was about to pull the engine anyway, due to a bad valve job and chuffing.
So, I took the trans to a competent local rebuilder. Yes, it was worn; yes, the converter was putting metal in the system; no, the fluid level was fine. Sure, the previous rebuilder (& previous owner) didn't replace some parts he should have.
Out of the vehicle, they weren't able to tell what caused it to fail. $X,*** later, at least it's warranted to produce forward motion now.
(Of course, engine's just starting to go back together, so my trans is still on the jack.)
Wishing you MUCH better luck, tonyj54.
So, I took the trans to a competent local rebuilder. Yes, it was worn; yes, the converter was putting metal in the system; no, the fluid level was fine. Sure, the previous rebuilder (& previous owner) didn't replace some parts he should have.
Out of the vehicle, they weren't able to tell what caused it to fail. $X,*** later, at least it's warranted to produce forward motion now.
(Of course, engine's just starting to go back together, so my trans is still on the jack.)
Wishing you MUCH better luck, tonyj54.
tonyj54
Registered User
Can you buy just the o-ring for the transmission filter?
Don't ask.
Don't ask.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I'm sure you could get one to match, if you have a old one to compare to.
But it may not be for a filter oring per say.
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But it may not be for a filter oring per say.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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