89 7.3 idi wont start

[beaverthehut]

Ok I'm new to diesels but pretty much understand the working of fuel being compressed instead of blown up by spark...I have an 89 idi it died on me like someone turned the key off I have checked the fuel shut off it is good replaced all fuel lines in case of leaks and bled everything down I have fuel going to everything except none coming out of the fuel return line from the top of the injector pump I need help I've tried everything I know and have searched the forums but found nothing that has helped with my problem if someone could help I would appreciate it very much

 

[pwjackson]

Bad check valve in the injection pump maybe?

 

[icanfixall]

Well sometimes I was not getting fuel out the retun off the top of the pump too. I removed the check valve and tested it but found it was clean and working fine. Its simple to do . Just remove the fitting. Then remove the dark colored check vlave from the top of the pump. It has an o-ring seal to the pump top. The bottom of the valve has a pin that when pressed by the solenoid in the pump top opens the valve. Its easy to test. Just add some diesel to the top side of the valve. then press the pin and watch it drain out. Caution must be made when replacing the top cover to the injection pump. If its down wrong the next engine start will be a run awy and noting can turn off the engine because its getting fuel with no governer restriction. Its like pouring diesel into the intake. It can rev up unlimited and sometimes it breaks rods and cranks because its rpm is so high. Many run from the sound of a diesel runaway. Go to utube and ask for diesel runaway.. Some of the guys are funnay as hell to watch. If and when you might remove the top of the injection pump make sure you have a small piece of wood wide and thick enough to cover the open intake. Thats the only sure way to shut down a runaway diesel engine. Never put your hand over the intake. It will suck it in because of the air flow. If you have a turbo be careful there too. The inlet blades are turning over 120,000 rpm and probably twice that rpm in a runaway. Thats a meat grinder on your hands and fingers. At 120,000 rpm that 2000 rpm per second... Wow that fast ...

 

[beaverthehut]

Thanks for the info...but would this keep it from starting?

 

[icanfixall]

If the fuel can't flow out of the return off the top on the injection pump the engine can't and wont start. Thats exactly what the check valve and solenoid does. It shuts off the return flow from the injection pump causing the engine to die. Now how that happens exactly in the pump I don't know. I just know it works like that.. What some owners have found is the ignition switch sometimes needs an adjustment. They do wear the contacts in them and it wont run. The switch is found very low on the steering colume under the dash. You will ned to remove some lower dash parts to reach it. Sometimes dropping the steering colume down from the dash mount helps with more working room. The switch has several operation locations. Turning it back will operate only the acessarys. Turning it forwards is the run location. Turning it all the way forwards till the starter runs is the start location. At that location only the starter and the injection pump fuel shutoff solenoid is getting power. To check if that location is not working right run a jumper wire from the battery positive directly to the large spade connecter wire on the injection pump top. Its the wire connection closest to the radiater or the fuel return check valve. Just pull off the wire ans connect a wire to the hot side of any battery. See if the ignition switch now starts the engine. If it does you need to adjust the switch or replace it. With the jumper wire connected to the battery and the pump you can't shut down the engine unless you lift the jumper wire because the pump is now getting a direct feed from a battery. Even a 9 volt battery has enough poer to open the solenoid in the pump. Actually the solenoid only needs 7 volts to open it. Thats just extra information for everyone. Mell supplied that info to me. Thanks Mel.. I pass it along to others ...

 

[Ugly Moosling]

If the fuel can't flow out of the return off the top on the injection pump the engine can't and wont start. Thats exactly what the check valve and solenoid does. It shuts off the return flow from the injection pump causing the engine to die. Now how that happens exactly in the pump I don't know. I just know it works like that..

This is only partially correct. If for any reason the check valve gets plugged to the point where return fuel cannot pass, it will stop the engine from running. The solenoid that lifts the check ball has nothing to do with that. That particular solenoid is the cold advance solenoid and is lifting the check ball off of its seat, this lowers case pressure and allows the internal advance to gain a few degrees of advance and help the engine warm up. The shut off solenoid is the larger solenoid with two terminals. It actually moves the rack linkage and pushes it into the shut off position. This is the one that can get installed improperly causing a runaway.

To the op: did you have air in the system when you first started bleeding it out? Have you tried jumping the shut off solenoid from the battery like icanfixall suggested? When you say you have fuel everywhere but the return, did you check at the injection lines? Do you have smoke while cranking? What's the history of the truck, is it new to you, has it been sitting for any period of time, how's the fuel condition? A few questions to help us help you

 

[beaverthehut]

I trade a nice 200x three wheeler for the truck and when I got it from the guy I drove five miles to fuel it up and it wouldn't start and he had to come pull it to get it started he told me it was tough to start but then once it pop started right away I drove it two and a half hrs home without a problem as long as the truck was warm it would start right up but if cold u had to use ether...it has always been hard to start every since I got it...it has an electric helper fuel pump between the lift pump and filter...so to answer your ? S. The truck is somewhat new to me it has fresh fuel in it and I bled all the lines starting from just the feed line then the filter line the the pump feed line then the injector lines and then at the injectors there is white smoke while cranking but not a lot and as far as the shut off I checked it by turning the key on and taking the connector off and listening for a click when connecting and disconnecting as suggested in another post and yes there was air in the lines when I bled th because I replaced all the fuel lines

 

[Bashby]

These things need to crank over pretty fast to start. You say it started right up when you pulled it... maybe it is a bad starter or cable or something.

 

[beaverthehut]

I bought two new 1075 cca batteries and it cranks over at about 1600 rpm but the starter is a lifetime warranty starter from O'Reilly I haven't tried pulling it since it died on me but I did roll back down the big hill I live on and tried it but it wouldn't hit a lick

 

[beaverthehut]

O and it has all new double 0 power cable to both batteries and the starter

 

[beaverthehut]

Here is an update I now have fuel through the return line with no air no air leaks in any fuel lines bit still no start I'm on the verge of just giving up and selling it

 

[Bashby]

White smoke from the tailpipe while cranking is fuel mist, are you getting that? If not it is not getting fuel. With the key on unhook the wire to the fss on the inj pump. You should hear it click as you unhook and hook it back up. It is the single wire connecter towards the front of the IP.

 

[TronDD]

How are the glow plugs working?

My truck didn't make it out of the guy's driveway when I bought it. Fought it for a month to get it to start for me after I did get it home. Finicky glow plugs. It won't start without them.

Tim.

 

[icanfixall]

I feel your glow plugs are shot or not getting power. So disconnect the two joined together yellow wires from the fender mounted solenoid. The use ether to start. also tell us how many miles are on the injection pump and injecters. Replacing the glow plugs is a good idea anytime you can't start the engine. Especially if you see white puffs of smoke out the tail pipe during cranking.

 

[beaverthehut]

Well we pulled it and it started once again took a while but it is now running and smoking lots of white smoke but still won't start while cold with a key...I put a new glow plug controller on it but it still clicks as warm as it is it shouldn't need glow plugs to start right it is 91 degrees

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