88 CCLB 4x4 C6 to ZF5

[88TurboIDI]

Ok burners, totally new to ford as well as diesels. But I have an 88 CCLB 4x4 that I have swapped from a C6 with a hear vender aux overdrive unit to a ZF5.

My question to you guys is what is the correct length of the front shaft (w/carrier bearing) length, donor truck was an 89 SCLB 4x4 and the front shaft was longer then what it Needs to be. I was going to get my measurement hopefully today and wanted to confirm with y'all about it to make sure it's correct before I get it shortened, or maybe you guys know of a driveline that would work that I could just buy. 6states is going to charge me 150ish to shorten the front shaft.

Also I'm going to be buying and installing a 2.5 shackle flip kit and 35's would I need to drop the carrier bearing any to accommodate the slight lift?

Bought the truck and have been slowly upgrading it

Currently it has a banks sidewinder turbo kit on it, water **** injection kit and flatbed, it is a centurion XLT lariat. Just got the ZF5 in it and have all new shocks to go around, then working on the lift, tires and led upgrade almost all the lights

Any and all help is appreciated!

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(pic is with test fitting my buds 35's on 20's)

 

[Thewespaul]

Nice rig. I can get measurements from a comparable truck, but’s it’s always best to go off of your own truck’s dimensions since there’s a lot of variables to consider

 

[88TurboIDI]

Thanks!
Yup just looking for something to compare mine off of, and as long as the other measurement is off a CCLB 4X4 with a ZF5 it would give me what I need.

 

[frankenwrench]

Better get some resistors or led flasher relay for the LEDs. All my lights minus headlights are led and kept popping fuses till I got the LED flasher relay and burnt up my rheostat. UL know quick when u smell the plastic burn and watch the dash lights go off. Wen we lifted my buddies centurion bronco 4 door we had to "shim" the carrier bearing mount a bit to correct drive line angle wen we went with the 37s and 8 in lift. We home made a shim outta quarter inch flat bar and wasn't enough so we wound up using 3/8 and that did the trick for us. It's may be differant so something u might have to play with till u get it right.

 

[franklin2]

When I swapped from a c6 to a zf, both trans lengths were so close, that I could have used the c6 driveshaft. I have a regular cab 8ft bed, but that would not change the trans comparisons. I think the lower crossmember moved back 1 inch for the zf, and the driveshaft would have been a tight fit but it would have worked. Have you tried the original c6 front shaft on the zf setup?

P.S. I forgot you had a overdrive unit on the c6, so your front shaft is already messed up. But if you could find another truck like yours, even with a c6 it may fit up.

 

[franklin2]

I went to www.car-part.com and picked a 1988 f350, rear driveshaft, and selected 168 inch wheelbase, wide bed manual transmission. I also selected the Northwest region. Here's what came up.

1988
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck F350 7.5L,MT,XLT A GL7983 $125 Taylors Towing and Auto Wrecking USA-OR(Cottage-Grove) Request_Quote 541-942-4356 / 800-533-4356
1988
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck F350 ON SHELF 1750 $200 Marler Auto Supply, Inc. USA-ID(Idaho-Falls) Request_Quote 800-444-9707 / 208-523-4187 Request_Insurance_Quote
1989
Rear Drive Shaft
Ford Truck F350 H041 $125 CBASS USA-ID(Payette) E-mail 208-642-4367

 

[Macrobb]

What sort of rear gearing are you looking at on that truck? If it's anything lower than 3.55, I'd find the correct adapter and use the GVOD on there as well.
I mean... 4.10s + ZF5 + GVOD is awesome for high-speed travel. 4.10s+ZF5 isn't great if you want to go over 65-70 unloaded. It'll do it, but less efficiently.

 

[88TurboIDI]

Thanks for all the replays, yes I was going to get the flasher relay down the road when I started swapping them out.

My rear driveline was already messed with to accommodate the gear vender, donor truck was a super cab long bed and beleive it or not but the front shaft of the rear was longer then a stock one for my truck would have been (slip fully in and carrier was still about two inches off of the mount)

Current gearing is 4.10's, but I couldn't cruise on the highway at 70 before with the aux overdrive. What I was figuring was 4.10 with ZF5 and then 35's should get me slightly closer to what I'm after.

What I got for my measurement from the center of the u-joint (transfercase side, with slip fully in then pulled put an inch) to the center of the carrier mount bolt hole was 24 1/2"

 

[88TurboIDI]

Another quick question for you guys, I've been searching with no luck for a place to buy another inspection plate for my zf5, the parts truck didnt come with one and with having all new clutch components i would like to not expose them to the elements. Called ford and they told me it was discontinued. And good luck finding one in a junk yard close to my place

 

[Thewespaul]

Try EBay and Craigslist

 

[franklin2]

Another quick question for you guys, I've been searching with no luck for a place to buy another inspection plate for my zf5, the parts truck didnt come with one and with having all new clutch components i would like to not expose them to the elements. Called ford and they told me it was discontinued. And good luck finding one in a junk yard close to my place

I don't have the lower flywheel covers on mine, and haven't had them since the swap 6 years ago. While it would be best to have the covers, I haven't had any negative affects from not having them. When you are parked, the area is sheltered from the weather and when you are driving, the rotation slings any water off the clutch.

What you want, zf with 4.10s and 35s is what I am running. I can cruise nice on the interstate, but empty only. I would rather have 33s. I don't have a turbo, so that might make a difference but you are going to need rpms for the turbo to work.

 

[madpogue]

Discontinued? There's actually a replacement plate. There's a TSB for it. The original one had a lip extending forward (toward the front of the truck), the edge of which was EXTREMELY close to the oil pan, at least on the PSDs. In some cases, with enough road/driveline vibration, the edge of that lip would actually "saw" a slot in the oil pan. TSB specifies a new design plate that doesn't have that flange. Oh, here it is - http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/951412.pdf . Sunrise Ford still lists the part, but I'd call to confirm. Prepare for a little sticker shock.

 

[88TurboIDI]

Discontinued? There's actually a replacement plate. There's a TSB for it. The original one had a lip extending forward (toward the front of the truck), the edge of which was EXTREMELY close to the oil pan, at least on the PSDs. In some cases, with enough road/driveline vibration, the edge of that lip would actually "saw" a slot in the oil pan. TSB specifies a new design plate that doesn't have that flange. Oh, here it is - http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/951412.pdf . Sunrise Ford still lists the part, but I'd call to confirm. Prepare for a little sticker shock.

Awesome I'll check it out, maybe I can take it to my stealership and show them what it is.... guy I talked to in the service department didn't sound too sure what I was talking about and said something about it not being listed at all for diesel application, what?! So I told him the 460 one would work then he told me that it was discontinued.

 

[franklin2]

Just a warning. A couple people I have talked to who have converted their clutches over to a single mass system, and bought the oversize clutch, say that the original cover rubs on the new oversized clutch assembly. Don't know what it takes to get around that. Has anyone else had this problem? I think it's the 12 inch clutches. The original was 11 inch? Not sure on that.

 

[Thewespaul]

Yep my 12.25 rubs, I just bent it and added some washers. No more rubbing