86' non-turbo intake???

[LCAM-01XA]

Hey, so it was late last night when I was typing. I actually used about 18 gallons. my bad. 13 would have been nice.
Thanks for the info on the lighting. I will have to look into that. My headlights actually work great! But all the other lights seem to be dim. Then, my biggest thing is the dash. it has a cover, but i can see cracks and such and it drives me nuts. is there anywhere to buy them new? i've looked on this site and haven't seen anything about them.

Yes 13 gallons would have been nice, but even 18 is reasonable as it amounts to around 14mpg. Do you have an automatic transmission? If yes there's at least 1mpg loss there when compared to a stick shift...

What I said about adding relays to the headlights applies to the running lights as well. Actually the single most common reason for headlight switch malfunctions seems to be not the headlights wiring, but rather that for the running lights. So how you fix that is you take your dash apart till you get to the switch, then unplug its connector and locate the brown wire in said connector. Cut that wire, but not right next to the connector as you'll need to extend both of its ends. Now locate a good place under the dash to install a standard Bosh-style ("ice cube") relay, and then install said relay. Go back to the brown wire you cut, and extend both ends of the cut till they reach the relay. Connect the end that comes from the switch to terminal #85 of the relay, and the end that goes into the big harness behind the dash goes on terminal #87 (not #87a, if present, #87a should be left empty/unused). Find an unused constant-power slot in your fuse box, and run a wire from that to terminal #30 on the relay, fuse this relay power feed as needed (10 amps should be sufficient for factory lighting). Alternatively you can tap into the wires that provide battery power to the headlight switch itself, should be tan in color with a white tracer, however keep in mind that the whole switch is fused for 15 amps so personally I would only use the tan/white wire as a running lights relay power source if the headlights have their own relays up front in the engine bay. Then the last terminal on the relay is #86, this one needs to be grounded, my standard practice is to use the same screw that holds the relay to the dash as a grounding screw also. And that's all there is to it!

Regarding the dash, there are plastic caps, you basically glue it on top of your dash and now you have a plastic-surface dash instead of the cracked vinyl mess. Take a look here, they have the velour covers at the bottom of the page:
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=61

 

[adill]

I have the 4 speed tranny. I am getting killer mileage around town though, right around 20. Everyone keeps saying to update my sig. what is that and how do I do it? I posted a picture of the truck a few posts ago, there should be a link there. Also, is there one manual better than the other? I have used Haynes before, but wasn't very pleased with it. What would give me the most information?
thanks

 

[LCAM-01XA]

4-speed, cool, I mean the C6 is very reliable but the 4-speeds are darn near bombproof. I'd kill for 20mpg, the only way we can touch those numbers would be pretty much idling in 4th, which is around 30-35 mph IIRC. How do you find 1st gear in that transmission, is it a bit too high or just right for you?

For the signature, clicky here: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/profile.php?do=editsignature

Regarding the manuals, best you can get are the factory shop repair manuals. If those are unavailable as a complete set, at least get the Ford EVTM (electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual). When it comes to aftermarket manuals some seem to prefer Chiltons and some Haynes, I have neither so I can't comment on which is better in what areas.

 

[PwrSmoke]

I concur about the factory manuals. Best way to go, bar none. It's all there, not abridged or homogenized as with the Chiltons and Motors. Haynes is a little better because it's a little more focused... but they still abridge and homogenize. The three manual (four if you can get Light Truck Specifications book) have every correct detail from major to minor. Well worth the money IMO.

 

[adill]

I don't mind 1st gear too much, I don't use it too often though. Can factory manuals be found on ebay or something? The truck has doors from a different truck and the power windows don't work. I looked around last night and found the connections are there, but nothing works. I'm not sure how to approach that. I hate electrical on anything. Also, my reverse lights don't work (tail/brake lights work fine), so I was wondering if that could somehow be tied into the windows? Probably not, but like I said, I hate electrical.

 

[PwrSmoke]

After my original set (bought at the dealer when I bought the truck in '87), walked off with a "buddy" (may his genitalia turn black and fall off), I went on eBay and found a set. They are out there. You can also contact some of the major sellers of manuals and literature on eBay about a set they may not have listed.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

My first IDI rig had power windows that didn't work. It turned out that the switch on the driver's side was bad. I replaced that and both sides worked. It was an 85 so the wiring should be the same. LMC Truck has the correct new switches. As for axle tags, I have found out that they aren't always right. My current 85 has axle tags and the door sticker that all three say 4.10 gears. The speedometer didn't work when I bought it, but I didn't care since I had only planned to use it for parts. After I decided to keep it, I bought a cheap, universal, GPS speedometer on ebay. It reads 2mph fast. one time I decided to see how fast it would go since it didn't feel like 4.10 gears. With the four speed trans and 285/75R16 tires, I got it up to 78mph and still had pedal left. Someone had to have put higher ratio gears in both ends, but put the original tags back on the axles.