7.3 idi running like an old tractor PLEASE HELP!!!!

[Wyreth]

Remove at least the grill rad and radiator mount. That will give you a WHOLE lot of room to get it out the front. There is also a few who will argue to also remove the fenders and fender skirts, I dunno if it's worth the time, but that is up to you not me.

other than that, it's pretty strait forward and simple.

 

[79jasper]

Remove at least the grill rad and radiator mount. That will give you a WHOLE lot of room to get it out the front. There is also a few who will argue to also remove the fenders and fender skirts, I dunno if it's worth the time, but that is up to you not me.

other than that, it's pretty strait forward and simple.

Right on. IMO, fenders and skirts wont actually gain you much.

 

[icanfixall]

Sorry you ruined the engine.... The engine can be saved. Any metal on top of the pistons is just that. Its also aluminum and that wont harm the cylinders. Now that the heads are off you may as well rebuild or replace the engine. Getting it out is simple but its very heavy. Only a 2 ton hoist and a 2 ton engine stand will handle the 1000 lb engine. Some have tried to use a 1 ton stand but its not safe. It will bend the stand. I saw my engine pulled without even the hood being removed. So when it was time for me to do this I left the hood on and it came up and over the core support. When I installed the engine I removed the hood springs and let the hood go back as far as it could. Then I cut a 2x4 to fit in the battery tray to hold open the hood. Then I installed the engine... Next day I could not rotate the crank so I pulled the engine. Found no problems so I installed it again.. Same thing happened. Had to hand tighten the bellhousing bolts to close up the gap... Stuck crank... That day I pulled and installled that engine 5 friggen times. Finally found the problem. Converter pilot shaft was size on size to the crank spacer. I opened it up with a sanding roll on my majita grinder 1.5 thousands.. Fit it easily the last time too... Removing the core support makes the lift much lower and seaier...

 

[93_idi_Turbo]

ok good to know hopefully doing the swap soon its has been sitting in the shop since pulling the heads and i cant wait to drive it again and also good to know that the cylinders might now be wrecked because i want to rebuild the motor to put in my dads 52 international thanks for all the input and ideas everyone

 

[icanfixall]

I just reread my post. A 2 ton hoist is a requirement to pull the engine but... A 2 ton engine stand is not. A 2000 lb stand or a 1 ton stand is a requirement. Thats for the safelt factor. There is a lot og weight hanging on the stand. Getting it placed correctly so its easy to flip over is usually a tuf thing too. Use lots of grease on the tube that the rotating part spins in. Some members have a gear drive so they can trun the engines over easy to work on the bottom ends. Its so much easier to install the oil pan when your looking down instead or up at it. Remember to never use a gasket on the oil pan. The factory used RTV and it works great. Just because you get a pan gasket does not mean you should use it. Almost ever person thats used a gasket ends up with a leaker. That tells it all. I have 7 years on my oil pan RTV and not one drip from it.