7.3 IDI Rocker Arms removal and instillation

Spun4Fun

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I had to take the rockers arm out drivers side to clean them from major rust that i discovered covering the rockers arm , Any special way to install them back in place after i clean them . Accidentally the rockers got mixed together , I hope that doesn't matter

What's the Torque for the rocker bolt Is it 20ft or 24 ?


rerouted my turbo drain line from the VP to VC , What is the best way to plug the big O hole where the drain tube use to connect to ..
 

IDIoit

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inspect your puhrods carefully for any deformitys.
does not matter the location of the rockers.
install rockers while both pushrods are at the bottom most position.
which means you gotta rotate it, do not do it by starter
24 ft lbs on the rocker nuts.
 

Spun4Fun

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inspect your puhrods carefully for any deformitys.
does not matter the location of the rockers.
install rockers while both pushrods are at the bottom most position.
which means you gotta rotate it, do not do it by starter
24 ft lbs on the rocker nuts.

Doesn't the push roads just go in place at the bottom most position then Rockers on top followed by 24Ftlb . Just curious why to rotate it by hand not the starter and how much rotation . WHat's the purpose of doing that ..

When you say no starter you mean crank by hand at the main crank ..right

Thanks
 

icanfixall

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Not using the starter is so you do not force a valve into a piston and bend it. Sometimes lifters fill with oil. Its called pumps up. Then they wont collapse enough to clear the piston hanging the valve open. Pushrods DO have a top and a bottom ball end. Mix that up and you will ruin the rockers when the pushrod wears thru them. Most times the top end ball is copper colored. Sometimes you might see and special center punch looking mark near one end. I think but do not recall if that was the top end or not. I might add if you can't tell the top from the bottom get a new set just to me safe.
 

IDIoit

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you must tighten the rocker when the cam is on the base lobe of that particular cylinder.
I and E valves must be closed.
failure to do so can and will, strip threads in the rocker arm bolt, bust bolt.
because youre trying to tighten a 5/16 bolts with a **** ton of spring pressure on just a few threads.

you always turn it by hand because things can go crazy, from misalignment of things, to bent valves.
trust me, just do it.
yes by the crank bolt.
15/16 socket.
1/2" breaker bar
 

jaluhn83

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I would try to put them back in the same place w/ same pushrod in the same way. IMHO not a big deal if you don't, but always a wise thing to do if you can.

None of the pushrods I've personally seen had a copper ball or any end mark, however the IH manual does say copper end up due to the use of idfferent materials at each end. I also have not observed any abnormal wear on mine and they've been well and truly mixed up several times. IMHO it's a good idea, but not critical is they get messed up. I think the only really critical wear spot is if you have flat tappet on the cam (ie SBC) - the push rods/rockers on these engines don't have enough movement to really wear that much IMHO.

Also tighten the rocker bolts evenly and carefully. IH manual has 20 ft/lb, not sure where you're getting 24.

IH manual says to put the notch on the dampener (timing mark) at the 11 o'clock position and then tighten all rockers at once - this puts all pistons below TDC so there's no interference. IH manual doesn't give any time requirement for lifters to bleed down, but I'd wait a few minutes to be safe.
 

TahoeTom

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The manual says to rotate the damper until the timing mark is at 11:00 (20* from vertical). At that position, none of the pistons are at the top, and all the rockers can be installed. 20ft/lb is listed as torque for rocker bolts.
Edit: Beat me to it.
 

Spun4Fun

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The manual says to rotate the damper until the timing mark is at 11:00 (20* from vertical). At that position, none of the pistons are at the top, and all the rockers can be installed. 20ft/lb is listed as torque for rocker bolts.
Edit: Beat me to it.

Will that apply since I am only working with the driver side ..
 
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Spun4Fun

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Not using the starter is so you do not force a valve into a piston and bend it. Sometimes lifters fill with oil. Its called pumps up. Then they wont collapse enough to clear the piston hanging the valve open. Pushrods DO have a top and a bottom ball end. Mix that up and you will ruin the rockers when the pushrod wears thru them. Most times the top end ball is copper colored. Sometimes you might see and special center punch looking mark near one end. I think but do not recall if that was the top end or not. I might add if you can't tell the top from the bottom get a new set just to me safe.


I have total of 8 pushroads with cooper colored so that mean that is it top end of it which will go to the rocker ..Right


How many times should i manually rotate the crank .. What should i be looking for . In the motorcycle world when building eng's, service ..etc i listen to binding , clinking , grinding .

thanks in advance
 

TahoeTom

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Just set the damper so the mark is at 11:00 and you don't move it again until all the rockers are installed. The copper end goes up, to the rocker.
 

Spun4Fun

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Just set the damper so the mark is at 11:00 and you don't move it again until all the rockers are installed. The copper end goes up, to the rocker.


Am confused on why it's refereed to it as the damper mark . Unless i am thinking of something totally difference . I was going to locate or try to find the timing mark marked on the the crank then use it's bolt by placing a 15/16 socket w 1/2" breaker bar and manually rotate until i get the mark close to 11 like you said .Maybe there is much easier way am guessing the ( damper ..:dunno) . My apologies as i am learning as i go with this IDi V8 . All my hand on experience is with the Inline 4 Tdi Vw's
 
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TahoeTom

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You are on the right track. The disk on the end of the crank with the 15/16 bolt is the damper. If it is covered in grime you may not see the mark, but it is a groove front to rear. Sorry I don't have a photo handy. Just above the damper is a timing plate with two tubes on it. For future reference, the TDC mark is there aligned with the left tube and marked with a line and "0". When the damper groove is aligned with the "0", #1 and 4 pistons are at top dead center, one on compression stroke and one on exhaust. The TDC line is used with a timing light to dynamic time the injection pump. Clean the damper and rotate it clockwise with the socket and breaker bar.
 

IDIoit

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tis why i tighten rockers with both pushrods in the down position..
much easier to look at.
unless the engine is out of the rig

11oclock would actually be the timing mark through the sight hole.
does this not indicate #1 at TDC?
 

TahoeTom

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11:00 or 20* from vertical looks like it would be rotated past the timing plate. It does seem like a wild ass guess to some degree to get exactly 11:00 without a protractor, and def more difficult with the engine in the truck.

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