Attachments don't work. You have to Go Advanced and scroll down use Manage Attachments.
7.3 IDI charging problems
- Thread starter Dr. Magnus
- Start date
Dr. Magnus
Registered User
:/ everyone is saying that the G3 alt is the way to go, problem is, I just don't have the cash or the time right now to make that swap. I might in the future if i can't solve this problem. Plus, I KNOW that this alternator can supply enough power. It seems to me that the stock voltage regulator is just junk. I don't know if thats the case, on not. Are there any modifications I could do to band-aid the problem until I have the time to do the G3? I remember reading around online before making this post, and I vaugely remember something about mechanical vs. solid state voltage regulators? Is that the problem? Did these trucks originally come with mechanical voltage regulators? or maybe the autozone part is just crap. If that would be the case where could I go to buy a more quality part?
Ain't got time to make the change from 1G to 3G or time to search for solid state VR. Were always helpfull for those that don't have time.
Here it is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reg...m3605fe3dd1:m:mOgyl3Wd_SGl23XwVqDmArA&vxp=mtr
Here it is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Reg...m3605fe3dd1:m:mOgyl3Wd_SGl23XwVqDmArA&vxp=mtr
Dr. Magnus
Registered User
I already have a solid state voltage regulator, I was wondering if the mechanical ones provide better performance. But seeing as this ebay listing is so cheap, I'll go ahead and pick this one up. Maybe the ones at autozone are just crap.
catodd
Registered User
Here are the pics.
Attachments
Ok, so the best way to do this is probably to explain everything from the beginning. I bought my truck about 3 1/2 years ago now, and since then It has haunted me with the same problem. It started about a month after I bought the truck, I had replaced the alternator with a new one as the old one (likely factory original) was completely dead after a month of driving. I replaced it with a new unit as well as the voltage regulator, and not just a couple days later it tested bad as well. I had that alternator replaced and the new one seemed to serve me well for the next several months. It should be noted that the battery dummy light only came on when these first 2 alts went bad. After I moved from Florida (where I bought the truck) to Missouri (where I currently live,) I noticed my batteries were going dead as the temprature dropped. the dummy light wasn't coming on, but the voltage on the dash-mounted voltmeter wasn't climbing above 12 volts when at idle with ANY accessory on (ie: headlights, A/C). I didn't realize that the alt was bad, assuming bad batteries because i lacked the knowledge. 1 set of new batteries later, and they were dead in a week. After finally figuring out it was the alternator, i decided to buy my new alternator from somewhere else. I had been buying them from advance auto parts, and decided I would try autozone (caus they have a lifetime warranty on these things) and I was very please with the performance. I replaced both the voltage regulator and alt again, and this time even when idling the voltage never dropped below 14 volts. Until a couple months ago, this was working fine, but then the old problems came back, except this time when i had the alternator bench tested, it tested fine, the handheld tester however said the voltage regulator was bad so away it went. The man at the autozone warranty'd my alternator anyway despite it testing ok (i tested the new unit as well before installation) and the problem still exists. ive thrown 3 more voltage regulators at the problem and it still won't go away. Ive had grounded the voltage regulater casing to the negative battery terminal and testing the alt wiring harness for resistance didn't reveal anything. Please helpI need this truck to work and hooking it up to a battery charger every morning is getting frustrating.
1. Make sure the regulator body is well grounded. The inner fender is plastic, so it should have a ground wire under one of the mounting bolts.
2. With the truck off, take a meter and measure the "A" terminal on the voltage regulator. It's usually yellow and should have 12v or battery voltage at all times.
Check the plug in the alternator that has the small wires. They like to get loose and give you a bad connection.
Something to ebsure is complete cleanliness of connections and utilizing dielectric grease on most every connector.
rustygold
Full Access Member
Need to test voltage drop between b+ on the alt and the battery to see if your losing some there.
But I'm thinking it's on the plug side the system dropping the voltage so it doesn't charge. For me and thing below 13.5 it's a bad system when everything is on
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
But I'm thinking it's on the plug side the system dropping the voltage so it doesn't charge. For me and thing below 13.5 it's a bad system when everything is on
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Broken wire inside 2 prong plug on alt....just had this issue...intermittent charge
Dr. Magnus
Registered User
hm, something I just noticed. if I take a voltage reading from the battery, it reads lower than if I take it directly from the alt. I think i'm going to explore the wiring again tomorrow. another question though. my batteries are not that old, but is it possible that a bad battery could be causing this?
also, another observation: today the temprature was lower outside than it has been for the past few months, and the charging system was working alot better. I was getting 14+ volts at idle like it is supposed to do, and it was staying above 13 volts with the AC on, but the headlights still kill it.
also, another observation: today the temprature was lower outside than it has been for the past few months, and the charging system was working alot better. I was getting 14+ volts at idle like it is supposed to do, and it was staying above 13 volts with the AC on, but the headlights still kill it.
rustygold
Full Access Member
There should be no more the .02 voltage drop in your system going to the fuse box. I would go and check you hots coming in to the system start with alt and go back to the fuse box.
Example
Check the voltage drop from B+ on battery to B+ on the alternator sure no more then .02 voltage drop.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Example
Check the voltage drop from B+ on battery to B+ on the alternator sure no more then .02 voltage drop.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Dr. Magnus
Registered User
well, thanks for all the ideas guys. and the discussions. I have no idea what the problem was, but it fixed itself after buying yet another voltage regulator on ebay. I guess the autozone and advance auto parts voltage regulators are crap.
Buffetkiller
Full Access Member
Hey guys i am having the same problem as the op and need help i have the VR grounded good(brand new) and have ran a wire strait from the b+ post on the alt strait to the battery. Nothing changed. The A terminal reads 12.6 on the VR. Im stuck brand new batterys. Fresh VR. newer alternator. And i have cleaned most of the connections....
The expensive one oriley sells is junk too. The cheap one has been working for me 2 years now. Should probably go to picapart and pick up a couple original ones. Ford used that regulator for decades.
