7.3 idi build

dieseldave93

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im building a 93 7.3 idi. im looking for some info. i need the rod length center to center and crank end bore size all i can find are psd specs. also looking for some cam options, valve spring. injectors and pump. maybe heads if anybody knows where i could get some that had stronger springs and valves maybe ported. im swaping pistons to lower my compression, head studs, main studs, turbo (25+ psi depends) maybe rods if specs are correct. im looking to push the limits of the motor to see what i can get out of it. any suggestions
 

riotwarrior

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Welcome the Oilburners and glad to see ya here.

Take a look in the FAQ and TECH sections, as what you seek is likely there! There is so much information here and the search function works well. Also take a look at the Hall of Shame so you don't spend money foolishly.

Now for cams Russ known here as Typ4 has a cam that is a good torque cam and R&D performance has a different one that bleeds off some compression for higher boost.

Valve springs people usually go with comp cams IIRC 910 is the #'s

As for heads port your own or have them professionally done. There are pistons with the pin 0.010 higher in the piston to lower compression and you could in theory mill a small amount off the tops. Studs try Justin at R&D performance again as he has good prices on ARP studs.

There are lots of build threads here to search out and learn from so no reinventing the wheel needed.

Heck apparently there is now roller rockers from harland sharp too.

IP's well for a performance IP there is Conestoga Diesel, Mel is the owner and his name here is Agnem he has the Moose pump series and they are well known. He also has some modified injectors, which may be what your looking for.

R&D also does provide IP's as well so there are options out there.

The factory Turbo 7.3 engine uses different rods with a 33mm not 28mm wrist pin so that could be something to consider, however that affects balance and requires the matching turbo harmonic balancer and flywheel if you are going manual.

Turbo's well there are the three main players, ATS Banks and Hypermax, and different ones from each brand. Or you can custom build one of your own liking.

remember use the search function as there is so much here and read lots and learn as you go.

Again Welcome to OB

Al
 

icanfixall

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Welcome to the forum. The crank end bore of the rod bearing is 2.498 to 2.499. The center to center length of the rod is 7.128 to 7.132. The pin end bore size is 1.235 to 1.236. the top of the block deck to the center line of the crank is 11.137 to 11.141. Thats a very tuf dimension to take. A shaft must be made and placed in the crank webs without bearings and torqued down. Then a depth gauge is used to find the measurement to that shaft. Then you divide the shaft diameter in half and add that amount to the depth measurement you took. Lost of work to find something like that. Really no other way to get that dimension either.
 

dieseldave93

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Thanks for the info. I've sent type4 a message on his cam. Also looking at the r&d to see which one is more what I want. I found a set of .020 de stroked pistons ordering them tonight. I'm working on rods at this point. Im lookin in to the moose pump. With any luck it'll be running by new years. Depending on machine work for the block.
 

icanfixall

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The non turbo rods aka na rods will handle plenty of hp. don't be afraid using them with 20 lbs of boost. The only differance between them and the turbo rods is the pin diameter. The na is 28mm where the turbo is 33mm. I could run 15 lbs off boost on my oem engine hauling heavy and never had any issues. Even went well over 300,000 miles on the passenger side head gasket on stock head bolts. I was lucky I know but they are built ford tuff.All the rods in our idi engines are forged too. BTW the psd rods are exactly the same rod demensionally except the width of the big end. Its 130 thousands wider. Shame too because they have bigger rod bolts in them. Nope.. We can't run thrm thru a Blanchard grinder to take off the extra material. Wont be enough material left to hold the bolts in place. And we don't need any better rods. The few that have broken must be some kind of manufacturing defect...
 

racer30

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NA rods have done in excess of 450 Crank HP with no problems....You will not have enough fuel to break them unless you spend a lot of money on a custom IP....Use the Rods and spend the savings on something like a custom intake and Intercooler that will give you more performance and lower your EGT's....
 

dieseldave93

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Good info on the rods. I'm planning on 25-30 psi. looking into turbos right now like Mel's moose boost. All ready looking into intakes. May get a flange cut to match the heads use some pipe making it like a header. Undecided at the moment.
 

icanfixall

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Really nice pictures posted. Interesting oil pan too. I like how the manifolds can be revered to work for this design too. What year is the block. I see 2 extra coolant passages plugged in that block per side compared to my block. What engine did you remove from the motorhome. Really an interesting build too.
 

racer30

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Its a 94 Turbo block with a stock bore. I removed a Detroit 8.2 turbocharged 4 cycle medium Duty engine. It was rated at 235hp 425torque. I estimate my 7.3 to be around 300 600 at the crank. I'm running a 90cc Turbo calibrated Pump and a HX40w Turbo. I just today got my air servo throttle modified to work and was able to put the Motor Home into gear and hold the brake I can get 10psi into the torque converter easy. I will finish up a few things tomorrow and if its not to bad of weather I will take it for a spin.
 

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