Ok so today I finally finished doing headgaskets and fired my truck up, within a few minutes all the hoses felt stiff so I popped the radiator cap slowly and it shot out coolant, after putting it back on I let it idle a while longer and then coolant pushed out of the top of the lower radiator hose. I then shut the truck off and bleed it through the top hose and a lot of air came out, I then started the truck again with the cap off, no bubbles where vid able so I put it the cap on And everything was fine for about 10 minutes and then the hoses seemed pressurized again, so I bled it again but this time no air came out just water. Any ideas?
6.9 radiator pressurized
- Thread starter S-west
- Start date
There is a ball check in the t'stat neck, that's an air bleeder. If you have the correct t'stat, the bypass on the block should be open and the coolant circulating within the heads and cab heater until the t'stat opens, then the coolant will enter the radiator. If you have the radiator to full, as the heads warm up the warm/hot coolant will backup thru the lower hose and cause overpressure. The radiator level should be an inch below full on initial fill. The bottom hose probably blew off because the clamp was not tight enough, some pressure should have been relieved thru the hose to the reservoir. Take the hose off from the heater at the heater going to the block, any air should come out there.
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Ok so I pulled the top hose and no air came out... Just water and I'm pretty sure that it blew my heater core somehow because now my heater core steams whenever I start the truck and drips slightly... My thermostat still never opened but I shut the truck off because of the heater core... Once it cools down I'm going to bypass the heater core and start over. Of course everything else would go wrong after fixing head gaskets.. My electronic lift pump was dead too when I tried to start it the first time
I think you have something more wrong than air. After you get the heater bypassed, get a glass jar full of water, put the small hose from the rad cap to the overflow reservior in the jar, start the engine and look for bubbles, if you have bubbles, you have a head gasket problem more than likely. Report back. Edit leave the rad cap on. It will have to be hot enough to open the t'stat before the bubbles will appear.
Glad to hear it's OK now after all that work. If you need a heater core I tthink I have some that will fit your truck for $30 shipped. Check local for one and the price, then let me know, I'll post a pic if you need one.
Got back from the test drive and everything went well.. I'll probably get a heater core at the local parts store if available but thanks for the offer, and again thanks for the help. I was worried it was headgaskets again at first.
I haven't had the problem yet, but there have been a few threads lately with the parts store heater cores not lasting. You should probably go to the dealership for a good one. Search the forum and see.
yARIC008
Drives really slow
http://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-...=1387749319&sr=8-14&keywords=coolant+test+kit
You can get this to test for exhaust gases in the coolant. I hear it works pretty well. But i guess you got it figured out now.
You can get this to test for exhaust gases in the coolant. I hear it works pretty well. But i guess you got it figured out now.
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