That is a old shot at 98% together, its missing a cople wires and a coolant neck in that shot
3 temp sensors have I . . .
- Thread starter Noiseydiesel
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That is a old shot at 98% together, its missing a cople wires and a coolant neck in that shot
Noiseydiesel
Full Access Member
Mine is a whole lot more in pieces than that. A whole ton of pieces that will get put together before I take it apart again. Next time should be the hidden hitch and that, with God's grace, will be the end of the major components.
My other truck is the storage bin of more in pieces.
For this 7.3 that will replace it, so that 6.9 is only a place holder currently since runs.
This core helped add pieces to the bin and how I got heads for the 7.3, this all got scraped,
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For this 7.3 that will replace it, so that 6.9 is only a place holder currently since runs.
You must be registered for see images attach
This core helped add pieces to the bin and how I got heads for the 7.3, this all got scraped,
You must be registered for see images attach
Noiseydiesel
Full Access Member
Some of those parts might bring a buck or two. However, it is easier just to pitch them and not deal with it.
I have a set of front hubs of the Ford front axle Dana 60 (SRW) that a "craigslist flake" has been leading me on with purchasing them now for about a month. They might get gone tomorrow.
This larger project has kept me entertained and not overly worried about them going away.
I have a set of front hubs of the Ford front axle Dana 60 (SRW) that a "craigslist flake" has been leading me on with purchasing them now for about a month. They might get gone tomorrow.
This larger project has kept me entertained and not overly worried about them going away.
At the time was not intending to get a core engine to get some heads but was the only option I had after about a month hunting, so had to run a bit far to get it. What got for scrap cover the fuel for the run to get it, did not have time to try and sell any it. That core was on craigslist for four months and there is another about as far the other direction that has been on for more than year, so doubting would be able to sell much. Saved what part would be needed to get the 7.3 running without cannibalizing the 6.9.
Noiseydiesel
Full Access Member
I have given thought to picking up a 7.3 core engine. then again, this engine should last some time and if I did pick up a core, I would also need a barrel of oil to store it in.
Noiseydiesel
Full Access Member
I believe my 7.3 is a lot more accessible than that is.
6.9 . . . I have a 6.9 in my '87 F250. It has the port in the back of the manifold for the 6.9 glow plug temp sensor. The upgrade to the 7.3 relay (I Believe) eliminates the need for that temp sensor in the back of the manifold. Most people unscrew and toss then plug it with a 1/2" (?) Pipe plug.
Do you have that option?
The problem with the water pump is making sure the probe does not hit the internal blades which would make it necessary to add a spacer and you don't have the space for that.
6.9 . . . I have a 6.9 in my '87 F250. It has the port in the back of the manifold for the 6.9 glow plug temp sensor. The upgrade to the 7.3 relay (I Believe) eliminates the need for that temp sensor in the back of the manifold. Most people unscrew and toss then plug it with a 1/2" (?) Pipe plug.
Do you have that option?
The problem with the water pump is making sure the probe does not hit the internal blades which would make it necessary to add a spacer and you don't have the space for that.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
All of these engines have that option. If that head is flipped around and put on the other side, that is the hole for the fast (high) idle temp sensor. The heads weren't built for driver's side or passenger's side (the plugs and senders were all added later, probably after initial engine assembly) so they all have the same ports.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I believe that the one in the block is 3/8" NPT while the ones in the heads and water pump are 1/2" NPT.
The plug in the water pump is water from the bottom of the radiator and it's not an accurate reading of cylinder head temps AKA it's after the thermostat.
Noiseydiesel
Full Access Member
So if your running an EGT and the temps go up, it would follow that the cyl head temp has also gone up. My preference is to not have a dead gauge on the dash. If I had another port to plug into other than the water pump, I would tend to go that direction.
Another possibility is to "T" the fitting at the cyl head and run a temp sensor at that location.
Another possibility is to "T" the fitting at the cyl head and run a temp sensor at that location.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You still have another plugged port beneath the valve cover, behind the overtemp light sender, toward the back of the head that you can use. I can perfectly understand the no dead gauge thing. I'm the same way. It doesn't have to be accurate as long as it works.
Noiseydiesel
Full Access Member
Yep! Your right. Now to get my Allen wrench in there and see if I can ease it out.
That might have to wait until the engine comes up to temp and now with an uncle's estate to go through, it might be a bit longer.
That might have to wait until the engine comes up to temp and now with an uncle's estate to go through, it might be a bit longer.
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