1994 12 valve hard starting

79jasper

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The same buddies truck that was stolen and recovered a year later.
It's been hard starting since he got it. The po ran a piece of garden hose from the air filter box to a hole in the dash next to the O/D button for using ether.
A different buddy that's fairly good with diesels(went to tech school and now has his own diesel shop) said it was ether addicted. Now I've heard some people say that that's bs, no such thing.
The grid heaters were disconnected, but it also just won't start on it's own even if it's warm out. Sometimes won't start on it's own right after you've had it running.
After we've both done some research, we're thinking of doing a compression test, playing with the pump timing a little bit, and I was thinking of checking the valve adjustments.


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79jasper

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Well forget the hard starting.
Had some huge wiring problems pop up. Keeping the dodge reputation alive.


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Armo

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Id second testing injection timing. My older ford tractor became hard to start when its timing slipped. It would haze a lot of white as well if i did get it going then would clear up as it warmed. The diesel clack of it also wasnt as loud. Check fuel pressure at the pump as well could be a weak lift pump, bad over flow valve, air leak in the fuel system.
 

79jasper

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Definitely something.
Well the wiring is now fixed. Finally and hopefully for good.
I had started it to move it because my extension cord wasn't long enough for my soldering iron to reach. Thing is definitely getting harder and harder to start. Like to die in reverse also, at least when it's still cold. (About 90°F out today)
I started it and let it run a few minutes, back out into the street, pulled up to back in and it died when I stopped and again when I went to reverse. Had to give her the juice every single time.
Fuel pressure is a good idea. I know these will run with a bad LP also. I'm sure it could use new rubber lines, ones coming off the tank don't look so good.
I've noticed it doesn't haze, nor really smoke when you get on it.
The PO said the pump was turned up all the way. And supposedly the turbo is from a 24v.
I'd think it'd still smoke pretty good. Oh and my buddy pulled the fuel plate.


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79jasper

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Adjusted the valves, the best I could for being in a hurry.
Better than it was.
Also readjusted the afc housing. Buddy didn't slide it forward.
Went through and cracked one injector loose at a time. Cylinder 4 made no difference. Also when I cracked it, the fuel squirted everywhere. The rest kind of bubbled.
Runs a lot better, and has way more throttle response. Will almost restart without either.
And changed the fuel filter and oil.


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Armo

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If your sure you have decent fuel pressure to the pump with out any air leaks and from what you have posted id look at getting the injectors tested. If it runs noticeably rough id start to wonder if the head gasket blew between cylinders. Im just a bit hesitant to suggest a path of cost simply cause it does cost some money. I had a diesel swather that wouldn't start with out either. The fix for that machine was to replace fuel filters clean the pre-filter screen and replace the cracked fuel line. After that it fired right up after the initial fuel priming and hasnt needed either since.

A few places to look for fuel leaks or restrictions on the 12 valve are:
The fuel heater (remove it completely it didnt make a bit of difference in -35F weather be sure to run 50/50 no.1 an no.2 or keep some anti-gel additive some gaskets will need to be replaced on its removal)
Clean the pre-filter.
Check the small screen ahead of the fuel pump (some have it some dont.)
check or replace the rubber lines leading to the fuel pump.
Check or replace the rubber lines behind the injection pump.(these are terrible to replace imo cause of no room)
 

79jasper

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Still don't know fuel pressure.
But it runs great after its warmed up.
Going to pull the injectors, disassemble and clean them.
Probably remove the fuel heater.
Is there an easier way to check the fuel pressure?

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Armo

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Still don't know fuel pressure.
But it runs great after its warmed up.
Going to pull the injectors, disassemble and clean them.
Probably remove the fuel heater.
Is there an easier way to check the fuel pressure?

I bought a special banjo bolt with snubber at the injection pump, but ive heard of people removing the bleeder plug on top of the fuel filter and installing a valve before connecting it to a gauge. If you dont install a valve with some fuel line the needle on the pressure gauge will be everywhere. Just turn the valve till the meter starts to read pressure. Some have used a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge to get a pressure reading. This has a few pictures and some info to help with pressures you should see how to troubleshoot the OFV, restriction, or lift pump http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/14-07-96.htm
 

79jasper

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Sweet.
I just realized it became harder to start after he removed the fuel plate. I wasn't there.
Used to restart easier, but now you have to spray it every time.

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4x4manonbroke

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Sounds like a fuel pressure issue .. I installed a tork tek OFV , now my truck fires up cold ( 30*) with out grid heaters and I have bumped up timing ... not even a studder now 30-32 psi fuel pressure to IP ..
 

79jasper

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Is there a way to test the OFV?
My buddy gets in deep **** with the misses when he buys stuff he doesn't actually need. Lol

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4x4manonbroke

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He wont be sorry bout that purchace .... also . if its still a bit hard to start ... needs Lift pump , and or Pick up in the tank ..

I would start with the OFV..
 

79jasper

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I text him in a bit and tell him to look it up.
I wouldn't be surprised if it has low compression though. Been started off ether for at least the last four years. Lol

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