It has been a while since I have posted anything. Mostly because I have not had to fix anything 
. The ball joints were making terrible popping noise and steering was sloppy. I previously did the pivot bushing, leaf bushings and the hubs outward (bearings, seals, etc) in my first round of upgrades. I actually had an f350 D60 in my possession for $250 but I figured the current setup worked for 220k miles it will be good enough and I have a project truck that I can worry about custom installs. I was not ready to get invested and have to start messing with cutting driveshaft’s or whatever plus the rebuild costs on top. Some may argue that route, please don’t post and clutter. This is to hopefully get facts and pictures for someone doing this as well.
Truck: 1992 ford f250 custom supercab 4x4 7.3 IDI. Dana 50 TTB. Plate says 4200# front axles.
First is the BOM I used for the bearing and bushing rebuild if anyone needs it:
Second here is the BOM that I used for the ball joints and all u joint replacement and the gaskets in between:
First step is to remove the hub. Mine has manual lockers and then a spindle nut-washer-nut setup. Some manuals said that there is tabs to be bent, mine just has a dowel pin in the second nut which locks the the middle washer holes.
Then removed the 5 bolts holding the spindle. These are not torqued very hard and should be easy to come off. Then you have to gently hit (I used wood buffer) the spindle to break it free from the corrosion on inside you will see.
Drivers side:
You can now slide the spindle and then the entire axle out and set aside.
Remove the ball joint nuts. I ended up using a 1-1/8 12 point because it fit both top and bottom nuts. A 6 point only fit one, even the new nuts. Use a pickle fork or just beat the crap out of it until the knuckle pops out.
may require heat
passenger side spun so I had to cut it off
Push the ball joints toward the top of the knuckle with a press or u joint/ball joint tool. Only the bottom ball has a locking snap ring. Then press new ones back in the same way making sure to push on the housing only. I have the rented kit from advanced that has various sizes.
Change the u joints as needed. I used a MOOG 231 from advanced for the single drivers side.
Passenger side:
Little trickier but most still applies. Once the spindle is removed the center boot straps need to be cut so you can slide out the axle like you did on the drivers side. There is a yoke that is in the differential that is retained by a c clip and will not come out (unless you want way more work)
The rental press will fit into the axle and the middle u joint can be pressed out pretty easy while still in the truck. It only works in one position.
Press the u joints out and replace them. I dremeled out the snap ring grooves and it helped a lot compared to the driver’s side. Press your new ujoints in and then you can slide the outer axle back in once all u joints are replaced. The middle u joint used was greasable and it part number 5-178x. I had to get it at napa for a little more because I was in a rush and others were closed. It was approximately $20 but was greasable. This chart helped me verify I was ok with this one. Dimensions were 3.625 and 1.18” for the 1350 series.
http://www2.dana.com/Expert/wc.dll?hvtss~dedsec~2~13~06~
. The ball joints were making terrible popping noise and steering was sloppy. I previously did the pivot bushing, leaf bushings and the hubs outward (bearings, seals, etc) in my first round of upgrades. I actually had an f350 D60 in my possession for $250 but I figured the current setup worked for 220k miles it will be good enough and I have a project truck that I can worry about custom installs. I was not ready to get invested and have to start messing with cutting driveshaft’s or whatever plus the rebuild costs on top. Some may argue that route, please don’t post and clutter. This is to hopefully get facts and pictures for someone doing this as well.Truck: 1992 ford f250 custom supercab 4x4 7.3 IDI. Dana 50 TTB. Plate says 4200# front axles.
First is the BOM I used for the bearing and bushing rebuild if anyone needs it:
You must be registered for see images attach
Second here is the BOM that I used for the ball joints and all u joint replacement and the gaskets in between:
You must be registered for see images attach
First step is to remove the hub. Mine has manual lockers and then a spindle nut-washer-nut setup. Some manuals said that there is tabs to be bent, mine just has a dowel pin in the second nut which locks the the middle washer holes.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Then removed the 5 bolts holding the spindle. These are not torqued very hard and should be easy to come off. Then you have to gently hit (I used wood buffer) the spindle to break it free from the corrosion on inside you will see.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Drivers side:
You can now slide the spindle and then the entire axle out and set aside.
You must be registered for see images attach
Remove the ball joint nuts. I ended up using a 1-1/8 12 point because it fit both top and bottom nuts. A 6 point only fit one, even the new nuts. Use a pickle fork or just beat the crap out of it until the knuckle pops out.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
may require heat
You must be registered for see images attach
passenger side spun so I had to cut it off
You must be registered for see images attach
Push the ball joints toward the top of the knuckle with a press or u joint/ball joint tool. Only the bottom ball has a locking snap ring. Then press new ones back in the same way making sure to push on the housing only. I have the rented kit from advanced that has various sizes.
Change the u joints as needed. I used a MOOG 231 from advanced for the single drivers side.
You must be registered for see images attach
Passenger side:
Little trickier but most still applies. Once the spindle is removed the center boot straps need to be cut so you can slide out the axle like you did on the drivers side. There is a yoke that is in the differential that is retained by a c clip and will not come out (unless you want way more work)
You must be registered for see images attach
The rental press will fit into the axle and the middle u joint can be pressed out pretty easy while still in the truck. It only works in one position.
You must be registered for see images attach
Press the u joints out and replace them. I dremeled out the snap ring grooves and it helped a lot compared to the driver’s side. Press your new ujoints in and then you can slide the outer axle back in once all u joints are replaced. The middle u joint used was greasable and it part number 5-178x. I had to get it at napa for a little more because I was in a rush and others were closed. It was approximately $20 but was greasable. This chart helped me verify I was ok with this one. Dimensions were 3.625 and 1.18” for the 1350 series.
http://www2.dana.com/Expert/wc.dll?hvtss~dedsec~2~13~06~
