1990 F-350 has trouble pulling-- lots of black smoke and "bogging"

[lefthanded]

Quick history is: I re-did a head, but the IP needed timing, and it didn't go well. A few weeks in a shop, and they got it going. New O-ring/return hardware, new glow plugs. Starts fine, warms up well. In town, flat roads, seems about normal. Put a 4500lb trailer on it, and every hill is an obstacle, and the temp gauge goes from mid-range to the L in NORMAL very quickly. Transmission, an E4OD, does what it's supposed to. Tires are large 245/85/16.

If this were an auto, I'd say it was running rich and its timing was bad, and might be missing. Lots of valve clatter, but one of the donut/compression gaskets for the exhaust isn't any good. I don't smell fuel.

The truck sat outside all of its life, but only has 116K miles on it.

If I were guessing, the theory says that the IP still isn't timed correctly. Might also have a bad injector or two.... perhaps even a worn IP. This said, only good fuel went through it, and it wasn't used much before I purchased it. No, haven't done a compression test.

You thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Lefty

 

[chris142]

Fan clutch working?

 

[lefthanded]

Yes, and doesn't explain the black smoke and bogging, unfortunately.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Pump and injectors original? If so get new ones from a reputable shop and get the pump timed properly

 

[chris142]

Yes, and doesn't explain the black smoke and bogging, unfortunately.

I'm working on one problem at a time

 

[Clb]

What he said.^^^^
Hit the stickies and tech section.

What was the issue of 1 head was done, and timing did not go well, and 2weeks in a shop?

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. My best guess is your timing is not correct and because you mentioned there is plenty of clatter I'd say you have too much advance. If you can ask the shop what timing meter they used to time it that sure would help us figure out what is going wrong. As already asked.. Why was 1 head removed and worked on?

 

[riotwarrior]

Did you yourself do the re n re on head?

If so I am guessing you removide the intake and IP correct? If so how was IP removed...did you take that big cast gear cover off by removing 4 bolts? Or did you just remove the IP from that cover leaving cover in place?

These are importa t ?'s needing answers.

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[lefthanded]

Answers to your questions

Did you yourself do the re n re on head?

If so I am guessing you removide the intake and IP correct? If so how was IP removed...did you take that big cast gear cover off by removing 4 bolts? Or did you just remove the IP from that cover leaving cover in place?

These are importa t ?'s needing answers.

JM7.3CW Eh!

I removed the intake and IP. The IP was fully removed, then timed Y2Y. Then it was retimed by shifting it-- a diesel shop did the IP timing by rotation.

Sometime in its history, it overheated. The head warped, but the warp wasn't machined out. The gasket became compromised and it shot coolant up the top side of the head, between the head and the intake to the top of the engine, and pooled in the glowplug wells.

I removed the head and had it properly machined and magnafluxed to ensure that it was solid, then re-installed it. All glowplugs are new, all of the injectors are probably original but were checked prior to initially firing it up.

Initially, I had the timing out by a couple of teeth. The diesel repair shop said they corrected that.

Under normal flat roads, it's fine, reasonable speed and torque. It still clatters LOUDLY if I put my foot into it. Under load, it barely makes it up hills and blows billowing black smoke out the tailpipe. Good thing I didn't get a ticket for smoking. Fires up within three seconds, this in the summer; fresh batteries, glowplugs, glowplug relay, and alternator-- and several cables that were questionable. No fuel leaks, new O-Rings.

I think it's timing, IP or goofy injectors. But timing is my deep suspicion and I suspect the diesel shop didn't use decent timing equipment to time it, just getting lucky and calling it quits. They seem to do better with post '94 diesels. This one was a bit of a mystery to them.

Thanks again for the help!!!!

Lefty

 

[Clb]

You have shop and tech issues.
First blush' shop times by ear.
2 timing was done wrong twice.
3 overheating only one head?
P.o . Got you.
Yikes!

 

[lefthanded]

The other head was likely repaired, but it passes compression tests, too, so maybe not so bad a job. There is no water in the oil and vice versa. Compression test was reasonable in all cylinders, within 10lbs of each other AFTER repair. The vehicle also heats from R in NORMAL to L in NORMAL in about 3/4ths of a mile. Otherwise, not under load, only light hills, it stays in the R-M range all day long.

So I'm looking into a local shop with actual IDI-qualified people. The symptoms seem to add up to timing. I might go for a refund from the diesel shop I had it towed to.

Looking for additional input, too. Thanks. Lefty

 

[Clb]

I would go here

What he said.^^^^
Hit the stickies and tech section.

What was the issue of 1 head was done, and timing did not go well, and 2weeks in a shop?

 

[jwalterus]

But timing is my deep suspicion and I suspect the diesel shop didn't use decent timing equipment to time it, just getting lucky and calling it quits. They seem to do better with post '94 diesels. This one was a bit of a mystery to them.

Gee, sounds like most techs these days, if it can't hook up to a computer, they can't fix it..............

 

[icanfixall]

So the head was milled flat.. Well must ask by how much??/ Normal head thickness is 4.975 to 4.805. Anything less can cause issues. The precups MUST also be milled by the same amount too. Most machine shops can't mill the heads and the cups at the same time. This milling requires a special expensive cuttuer head. So they remove the cups and mill them correctly hopefully. they can be above or below the head surface by 2 1/2 thousands. At 3 thousands you create problems.
At this point I feel your timing is off.. Way too advanced because you tel us it smokes black and rattles when you stick the throttle deep. You probably have other issues going to also. Maybe the "Y" marks are not correctly aligned because it was not done by you. Shops lie to make money as you are finding out.
This message is very important... Any shop that can't make these simple all mechanical engine run correctly is not a shop to use. ALL of our fuel system is mechanical in that we have springs in the injectors and the injection pumps are simple to adjust for timing. This is the simple truth. If you have the time please drive to Conestoga Diesel in Pa or look up Ron Butts on this forum. He has the ability to make your engine run correctly.

 

[riotwarrior]

So you pulled the IP gear cover and messed up the timing of the gears initially. Then had shop attempt to set things correctly; that leaves getting it on a timing meter and discovering where ya are.

Without a baseline timing # it is just guessing and hearsay.

Either rent a meter from Gary or go to the stickies....as seen below...look in timing registry and locate someone near you to help.

Stickies are seen below...

You must be registered for see images attach

Best starting point for new folk...

JM7.ECW Eh!