1989 f-superduty

[POOSHAW]

I hate for my first post to be one begging for help, but I sure could use some. There seems to be some pretty sharp fellars on here, so hopefully someone could help me. Here is the story:

I bought an '89 F-Superduty off a guy up the road. I got about 3 or 4 miles toward the house and blew both head gaskets and locked the motor up. I pulled it home and pulled the heads and found the block was junk. I found a used motor from a different guy, tore it down and built it back. (pistons, rings, bearings, lifters etc.)

After installing the motor, it fired right up and purred like a kitten for about 5 or 6 minutes, then just stone cold died. No smoke, no sputter, just died. That's where I'm at many days and hours later. I figured it was getting air somewhere, so I tried running it out of a jug to eliminate the lines back to the tank. Still died.

I installed an electric fuel pump and new fuel lines when i dropped the motor in, also rebuilt injector pump, new injectors and return lines and caps. I have swapped the filter head, replaced the compression seals on the hard line from the filter head to the injector pump, and swapped in an injector pump I had that I knew was good. I currently have clear lines on the suction and pressure side of the fuel pump, from #1return cap to the filter head, and from the return on the injector pump to the hard return line. I cant see any air anywhere, but it still dies.

When it dies, there is no smoke no miss, no warning whatsoever. I tried a jumper straight from the battery to the fuel solenoid, but with no success. When the truck is running, I can shut it off with the key and start it back at will, whether I have it off for 10 minutes or 2 hours, it will fire right back up. But if it dies, it has to sit 20 or 30 minutes before it will even pump fuel to the injectors. After it dies, I let it sit for a little while, crack an injector line, and it will start right back up.

This is not my first diesel nor the first motor I've gone through, but I am certainly missing something. Any suggestions anyone might have would be greatly appreciated. Sorry this ended up so long, just trying to get most of the things I can think of in.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

welcome to OBN.i love your home state! one of those places,that just feels like home away from home.

well that's some dang luck your having.i dunno what the odds are of getting back to back ip's with the same issue but it probably happened to you (especially if you went with a "budget" ip from ebay for example)
but,try pouring some room temp water over the top of the ip,the next time she stalls out and doesn't want to start.if she fires right back up,then you know you've got to head over to moosepump.com for a quality ip.

 

[tbrumm]

I am with FORDF250HDXLT that is probably a worn IP getting hot and the tolerances opening beyond what is acceptable to still build pressure to the injectors. BUT, there is chance that is might be the fuel shut off solenoid. That can get heat soak and the coil in the solenoid "open up" and cut off your fuel supply. I had a similar problem and here is the thread related to it.http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?27919-Fuel-shut-off-solenoid-replacement-Stanadyne-DB2

 

[OLDBULL8]

Usually with a heat soaked IP, it don't just stop, it's hard to or won't start again until the IP cools off or the water treatment is applied.

Sounds like it just plain ran out of fuel.

Usually with a heat soaked IP, it don't just stop, it's hard to or won't start again until the IP cools off or the water treatment is applied.

Sounds like it just plain ran out of fuel, like it lost power to the FSS.

With your jumper, connect it to the battery first, then to the FSS terminal. Can you hear the solenoid CLICK? Do it several times. If it clicks, see if it will start then.

Another way would be, disconnect the glow plug relay so the GP's don't cycle, then cycle the key ON/OFF, have someone listen for the FSS to click ON/OFF.

Seems strange both IP's act the same way.


This is the 3rd time I've tried to post this. Keep losing the page when posting, gotta log in again. ***

 

[junk]

What size return kit on there? I wrongly installed the smaller kit and my engine did similar. Ran for a while then die. Let it sit and it would restart. Next question is how do you have the returns routed?

 

[POOSHAW]

I appreciate those that took the time to read and reply to such a long post. Just to clarify:

This would be the third injector pump I have tried. I had two with the previous motors that I swapped back and forth. I was unsure about their condition, so I used one for a core for a rebuilt one from Advanced.

I am fairly certain the shut-off solenoid is working properly. I can hear it click with ignition power, plus I have taken the cap off and watched it to make certain. I have kept a volt meter on the solenoid wire through the run shut-off cycle and never lost voltage, as well as running a jumper wire straight from the battery.

I have the bigger return lines and caps installed. The return lines run as follows: Form the fuel filter to #1 injector, then straight to the back of the motor. From the IP to the return hard line straight back, and from #2 injector straight back. At the back of the motor, the odd bank lines and the even bank lines tee into the hard line which turns into a rubber line going back to the tank.

At one time I though the new electric pump might be overpowering the returns and possibly deadheading the pump, so I unhooked the returns at the fuel filter, and the tank selector switch and let them return into jugs while the truck ran. Didn't make any difference.

Thanks for your replies, I'll keep piddling might get it figured out soon.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

what can you tell us about all these injector pumps your trying? where did they come from,how do you know they are good or do you? are they used with a million miles,are they reman,if so from where?
did pouring cool water on the ip once it wouldn't restart,make the engine instantly restart or have you tried yet?

 

[jwalterus]

I installed an electric fuel pump and new fuel lines when i dropped the motor in,

There's your common denominator, I'd look at that thing, what electric pump did you put in, and do you have a fuel pressure gauge on it?
I bet it's dropping pressure to nothing when the truck dies, either because the pump is done or the electrical to it has a problem.
Have you tried running it straight to the battery when you are trying to get her going?
Heck, might be a plugged filter as well......

 

[icanfixall]

Please tell us if you purchased a pump from someone and installed it. Also what type of electrical pump did you install. Did you leave the original mechanical pump in the fuel system and are pushing fuel thru it by the electric pump. If you have the large return lines then your clamps are the red ones. If the removed the green clamps you can't run the larger return lines with the red clamps because the fittings at the filter head and the hard line return will be for the smaller lines. air leaks will happen.. It simply sounds like you run out of fuel somehow. Where did you install the electric lift pump in the fuel system. Please do not force fuel thru the mechanical lift pump by th electric lift pump. That will blow out the mechanical pump diaphragm and the oil pan fills with diesel. Then the bearings wipe and you have a ruined engine,...

 

[POOSHAW]

I hope I can answer a few questions:

FORD250HDXLT:
The first ip I tried was the one that came on the truck. It seemed to start and run the truck fairly well when I bought it, so I put it back on the motor that I rebuilt. After I was unsuccessful at curing the stalling problem, I tried the ip that was on the motor I rebuilt. I had no knowledge of it's history. After many more failed attempts at curing my problem, I bought an ip from Advanced Auto and used the 2nd ip for a core. I have not yet tried to cool the ip with water, but I will.

Jwalterus:
The electric pump was a new Facet Duralift that I installed in the engine bay. I do have a gauge on my filter head, and it reads a constant 9 psi, even when the engine dies. The fuel bowl on the lift pump and the filter head are always full of fuel, and I have two new filters I have tried just to make certain.

icanfixall:
I bought the return bigger return line as a kit with caps and clamps included. Where the rubber lines met the filter head, ip and all the returns meet at the back of the motor, I used fuel injected worm clamps. Also, I removed the mechanical fuel pump and made a block off plate before I dropped the motor in.

I hope this answered some of the questions you all might have had. I am sure this problem is something simple, but I just can't seem to find it. I think sometimes you can stare at something too long and not see what's right in front of you.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Two things that haven't been asked about.
Changing the return lines from 3/16" (small) to 1/4" (large).

The brass straight fitting out of the filter head, had to be for 3/16" hose, when you went to 1/4", that barbed fitting should have been changed to 1/4", gear clamps distort hoses causing air intrusion.

The hard line from the IP to the tee at the rear by #8 cyl must be for the 3/16", if it is a brass fitting, it should be changed for the 1/4" hose.

When going from 3/16" return lines to 1/4" lines, the 3/16" fittings must be replaced with 1/4" fittings. It appears your squeezing the 1/4" hose to make it fit on the 3/16" fittings with those damn gear clamps.

I don't know why you went from 3/16" to 1/4" return lines, but my 92 7.3L with a turbo has the 3/16" lines and supplies plenty of fuel to cool the IP. The return lines do nothing but return unused fuel back to tank, they do NOT supply (charge) fuel to the injectors, if the injectors have leak by that fuel goes into the return line.

I don't read anywhere that the Olives on the hard line from IP to rear tee have been changed.