I'm sure it won't make much of a difference but I ran the hot side to the front and cold to the rear on that ic because in my mind the air from the clutch fan hitting the cold side of the ic may heat it up.
There's always lots of oil in the intake of these things. It's fine. I used red RTV on my snail, let it setup for an hour before tightening the bolt down. I can't remember how hard that is to get off without an intercooler but I recall it was a pain.
You can get new an fittings for them, or barb fittings to connect hose. One is 5/16 the other 3/8 I believe. I actually removed them and just ran rubber diesel rated hose to the metal nipples with double clamps. Never had an air intrusion issue. I saw them as air leak risk when I replaced the tanks.
That's much safer for the engine, i thought he was cleaning engine and isolating radiator. I still wouldn't use uninhibited hydrochloric on brass. It could damage the solder. though if you're going through all that with the cost of coolant and risk for a leak I'd just forfeit the $200 for a new...
It would be really bad for your oil cooler where there are copper are aluminum together and generally not good for your copper block heater. You can clean copper with hydrochloric but it would usually contain a corrosion inhibitor like rodine to limit copper corrosion. Store bought muriatic...
I can't remember which bushing is which. I did all 4. The big ones that fall out under the cab are easy the smaller ones are harder that bolt to the kmember. I believe I hole sawed the rubber out then used an air chisel to crush the bushing sleeve inward to get it out. Then used a balljoint...
I thought this was a 4wd? I removed and installed these beams by myself on two different dually trucks, one on jack stands the other on a lift. It's not too hard, I use a ratchet strap to strap the trailing arm into place (big stud) once the part to the Kmember is bolted in. I use a jack to help...
From Ebay, they are the same as rotors for the SRW. I paid $120 for the pair, looks like they are on sale for $60 right now. They are extremely high quality i've had no issues with them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291328379567?item=291328379567&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
More pictures of them...
A trailer weight has nothing to do with the gvwr of the truck so long as your trailer tongue weight (2,000lb for. 20,000lb trailer or so) doesn't exceed your hitches rating or add enough weight for your trucks axle to weigh greater than your trucks gvwr. The gvwr is about stopping power not...
You can get a cab and chassis f350. They are 11k gvwr. If I had a big camper on their id definitely want the stability of the dual rear wheels. My 93 idi turbo crew cab 2wd with a service body weighed 8700lb that same bed on my cab and chassis psd single cab 4wd dually is 9200lb.
Have you checked the fuel olive on the inlet to the injection pump? Or fuel olives to/from filter? I don't know how far you bypassed it
I always bypass with in electric fuel pump to rule out the mechanical. If you have a leak anywhere on the suction side you WILL hear air returning to the tank...
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