Welding oil pan in place?

needlenose · Jan 20, 2018

It sounds like someone here has already done it before, so maybe it's not an issue. But as thin as the oil pan is, I would think that oil contamination is going to make it leak-prone. Maybe if you could heat it up pretty hot to burn it off the back before welding? There were some guys on weldingweb.com(?) talking about welding pans a while ago and there was some discussion about the oil soaking into the steel by some minute measure and combusting during the weld to make it porous. Once you have a hole going, it gets harder and harder to close it when you can't clean properly.

I do believe that was TIG. I know MIG has a tendency to be a little more forgiving.

79jasper · Jan 20, 2018

Imo, MIG is very little forgiving also. Lol but yes, not as bad as tig.
Just getcha one of them there 110v flux-core welderizers....

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Thatoneguy · Jan 20, 2018

I can MIG or TIG it. I'm a welder for a living so thats not the issue. I know theoretically it could light up... But what are the odds of that actually happening? Especially if i pull a vacuum or purge the oil pan with argon? The bung is a 1/2"NPT. What if I were to tack weld it? Nice hot tack at 12oclock, then same on 6oclock, then 3oclock, 9oclock, etc......... I did think about using one of the plugs on the oil cooler (precooling of course) but those are a PITA to get to. My mechanical oil pressure is already where the stock oil pressure was. And if you T off of that you wont get the most accurate readings. As for mig and tig, ya mig is more forgiving than tig, but it can still be a finicky butthead. Gotta have settings and technique perfect if you want solid penetration. And rust, wind and all that kind of crap doesnt fare so great with it.

Thoughts?

Thatoneguy · Jan 20, 2018

DrCharles said:
I'd be a little worried about ignition of oil or vapors too. Rather than a vacuum pump, how about purging with your MIG gas (CO2/Argon mix) and filling the engine with it? It won't burn and it's heavier than air, and just a psi or two of pressure will keep all the oxygen out of the pan.

Or solder the bung on instead of welding it, if you have a big enough soldering iron that an open flame would not be necessary.

Just tossing out some ideas here

Thats a good idea! I'll probably purge with straight argon. Extra heavy and will sit in place better than co2. I unfortunately do not have a soldering iron THAT big. But I can always heat the bung off the pan nice and hot, then warm up the pan with a handheld butane torch.

Thatoneguy · Jan 20, 2018

IDIoit said:
maybe with a TIG....
id be more worried about the metal shavings from drilling than crank case vapors.

I've got a massive neodymium magnet i was gonna put just below the hole as i drill. Use a sharp drill bit and go slow and get nice long shavings instead of little chips. Once the whole is drill stick the pencil magnet in there and then remove the big magnet so any shavings it grabbed now go onto the pencil magnet. Think this would work?

Garbage_Mechan · Jan 20, 2018

I would braze or silver solder. I have done it a few times, the 66 Ford I did it on is sitting 50 feet from me still no problems many years later. This was for a stripped drain plug, just brazed a 1/2" nut over the old hole presto new threads! Did have a nice little "whoop" flash fire I would avoid now that I'm a little older and smarter lol! Purging is the way to go.

IDIoit · Jan 21, 2018

Thatoneguy said:
Think this would work?

if that's what youre into.
personally id only do this with the pan off

Thatoneguy · Jan 21, 2018

Hm... Well I don't have a way to pull the motor up right now. And I don't have the time since this is my business truck. So unless yall got a suggestion on where else it can go I guess I'm just gonna take EVERY precautionary measure I can think of And just be careful with it.

79jasper · Jan 21, 2018

You could tig braze it with some sil-bronze.

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Thatoneguy · Jan 21, 2018

79jasper said:
You could tig braze it with some sil-bronze.

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This is true.... Might end up doing that. I think I've got a pound or two of it lying around somewhere lol.

jwalterus · Jan 21, 2018

Thatoneguy said:
Hm... Well I don't have a way to pull the motor up right now. And I don't have the time since this is my business truck. So unless yall got a suggestion on where else it can go I guess I'm just gonna take EVERY precautionary measure I can think of And just be careful with it.

Sure, put it in a drawer until you DO have a way to lift the engine and pull the pan.......

It's an oil temp unit...... on an IDI....... about as necessary as a DPF on these trucks.......

Thatoneguy · Jan 21, 2018

jwalterus said:
Sure, put it in a drawer until you DO have a way to lift the engine and pull the pan.......

It's an oil temp unit...... on an IDI....... about as necessary as a DPF on these trucks.......

What would you recommend instead of oil temp? I already have boost, pyro, water, oil pressure. My truck has a ZF so a tranny temp would be basically useless.

79jasper · Jan 21, 2018

I would do trans temp. Yeah, useless unless you know what temp it should be. But I would bet many are running over a recommend heat range. (From loose tolerances)

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Thatoneguy · Jan 21, 2018

79jasper said:
I would do trans temp. Yeah, useless unless you know what temp it should be. But I would bet many are running over a recommend heat range. (From loose tolerances)

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Haha that scares me lol. My tranny goes into gear solid and all, but once in awhile I get a little resistance or a small grind when shifting. I'm not sure I want to know lol. So you think I would be better off with a tranny temp instead of oil temp?

Thatoneguy · Jan 21, 2018

By the way, does anyone know how thick our oil pans are?? I'm completely guessing like 16gauge but idk for sure.

Welding oil pan in place?

needlenose

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