Optikalillushun
Registered User
I cant get the tech file to open for me, and i wanna put a switch to keep my truck on high idle when i like. Since i cant open the tech article anyone have pictures of how it is done or a diagram?
High idle manual switch wiring help
- Thread starter Optikalillushun
- Start date
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
I don't have a diagram but i'll tell you how i did it. I took the stock wire which comes from the temp sensor on the passenger head that triggers the cold advance and high idle, ran that to a 3 amp diode i got from radio shack. This line now feeds the trigger coil of a 4 pole relay. I also ran a 12v switched source from inside the cab to this same line. Grounded the other side of the relay. Hooked up the rest of the relay to power and to the high idle solenoid.
This way i can feed power to the solenoid without it backfeeding the cold advance.
This way i can feed power to the solenoid without it backfeeding the cold advance.
Kevin 007
Full-floater
Couldn't have said it better myself, nor could I have done it better. For now, I simply have a toggle switch on my dash hot wired with a fuse to the battery, And I run it to the spade connector on the fast idle solenoid. Same deal with the timing advance solenoid.
I do this because it takes forever for my 6.9 to get hot enough in this cold weather for it to shut the fast idle and timing advance down by itself. So I shut it down when I feel necessary. I don't like driving away with the timing advance on!!!! I cringe at the sound it makes.
I do this because it takes forever for my 6.9 to get hot enough in this cold weather for it to shut the fast idle and timing advance down by itself. So I shut it down when I feel necessary. I don't like driving away with the timing advance on!!!! I cringe at the sound it makes.
Optikalillushun
Registered User
Is a relay needed? Im gunna try to make a harness that is plug n play, so i dont have to cut the stock harness. Im not a fan of hacking up the factory harness if i dont need to.
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Kevin 007
Full-floater
I didn't use one. You don't have to hack up the factory harness, just unplug it at the fast idle solenoid and let it hang, tape up the end so it doesn't short out to anything as it will still have power to it as it normally would during cold starts.
No need to cut anything up, you can always go back to the factory set up this way in the future, like if you sell the truck or whatever
No need to cut anything up, you can always go back to the factory set up this way in the future, like if you sell the truck or whatever
Optikalillushun
Registered User
I got what u are saying, but i want it to function like stock just be able to control it when i need it. I do a lot of trail riding, and with the switch i can use it for a idling when waiting for others to catch up, setting up for a fire at night, etc...plus i think it may help when crawlin so i can idle up stuff.
boosted power
Full Access Member
Crazyasian has the best idea.
Of course if you don't need the timing advance you could just unplug it. Then you could splice a switched 12v into the line, and not worry about it.
Of course if you don't need the timing advance you could just unplug it. Then you could splice a switched 12v into the line, and not worry about it.
GreenDiesel
Full Access Member
any particular reason to not use the timing advance as well? more wear and tear on the IP?
Kevin 007
Full-floater
Not the IP but the engine, if anything. In my case the timing advance won't shut off before im ready to drive aways after 5 mins of warm up; so as Im accelerating away, those few extra degrees of advance arn't doing my motor any good, sounds like its going to put a rod through the block or something. So I end up shutting it off before I drive away, or even earlier
And I use the same practice as I use on idi VW diesels when I cold start em, I leave the timing advance OFF when cranking as I find that it can hinder the starting process further if your pump is already fairly advanced. With VW's id leave the timing advance lever pushed in till the engine starts, then pull it out.
So this is why "I" like the timing advance on a switch.
And I use the same practice as I use on idi VW diesels when I cold start em, I leave the timing advance OFF when cranking as I find that it can hinder the starting process further if your pump is already fairly advanced. With VW's id leave the timing advance lever pushed in till the engine starts, then pull it out.
So this is why "I" like the timing advance on a switch.
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
The timing advance really was there just to aid in reducing cold smoke until the motor warmed up.
I left the stock harness intact. Also you do not need to hack the stock harness. I used a male spade connector to feed the relay from the stock harness. No cutting at all.
I don't like to hack stuff. PERIOD.
I left the stock harness intact. Also you do not need to hack the stock harness. I used a male spade connector to feed the relay from the stock harness. No cutting at all.
I don't like to hack stuff. PERIOD.
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Optikalillushun
Registered User
I dunno i cant picture what y'all are sayin to do. why are u usin a relay its such a small draw.
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itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
Make a pigtail, with a male spade terminal that will slide into the connector at the factory harness for the high idle solenoid. In this wire, you will crimp or solder in a diode. Remember a diode will only allow electricity to flow one direction. You want electricity to flow towards the relay. So from the factory connector, to the diode, to pole 85 of the relay. Before you crimp the wire to the terminal you will use to go to the relay, add another wire in from your switch in the cab for the high idle. Crimp this wire from the cab and the wire with the diode together with a female spade terminal. Slide this terminal to pole 85 of the relay. Run a wire from pole 86 of the relay to ground. Run a fused 12V from the battery to pole 87 on the relay. Run a wire from pole 30 to the high idle solenoid with a female spade to slide over the high idle solenoid's terminal.
The solenoid will draw 5 amp.. The diode is only rated for 3 amp. I have a 7.5amp fuse on the circuit too. You can buy higher amperage diodes. My local "shack" didn't have anything more than 3 amp hence why i used the relay
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Optikalillushun
Registered User
thanks, now i understand why u used a relay. Makes sense now, and that was similiar to what i was gunna do, just w/o the relay.
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
you can buy a high amperage high capacity diode online or from a electronics store. There used to be a place that sold stuff like that down here but they went out of business. So i buy online for stuff like that. But if you bought the correct diode, you could just wire the diode inbetween the stock harness and the high idle solenoid, and feed the solenoid from inside the cab with 12v and it wouldn't backfeed the cold advance. I personally still like using a relay
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