Wholly crap she ran away on me

Macrobb

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Well lo and behold turns out that someone had eliminated the voltage regulator. Wired in a regulator very simple to do
Bat post on alternator to + post on battery
S post on regulator to wire from harness that is hot when key is on and not when key switch is off
A post on regulator hot all the time wire
F post on the regulator to the field wire on the alternator (the one closest to the front of the alternator ) and screwed the regulator to the fender well and ran a ground wire to one of the screws. And took it for a drive no rotten egg smell batteries not hot no side bulging.
Thanks for all the help
This.... is not wired correctly.
On your regulator, you have 4 terminals: I, A, F and S.
I - should go through an incandescent bulb(dash light or marker bulb) to switched power. Without the bulb, you'll overheat the regulator and it will draw too much power with the engine off.
A - Feedback from alternator. Connect to the battery harness as close as practical to the battery(usually fender well solenoid).
F - FLD terminal on alternator.
S - STA terminal on alternator.

With the key on, engine off, a small bit of power flows through the I terminal(and bulb) into the alternator to "excite" it.
Once the engine is running, the alternator is producing power, which flows back through the STA terminal, which is used for feedback/loop current going into the FLD terminal.
A tells the regulator how much to increase or decrease output to maintain voltage at the battery(A good use of this is if you have a diode battery isolator - put the A terminal on the battery side of the isolator, and the alternator will boost the voltage into the isolator to match the ~1V dropped across it.
 

Scrench

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This.... is not wired correctly.
On your regulator, you have 4 terminals: I, A, F and S.
I - should go through an incandescent bulb(dash light or marker bulb) to switched power. Without the bulb, you'll overheat the regulator and it will draw too much power with the engine off.
A - Feedback from alternator. Connect to the battery harness as close as practical to the battery(usually fender well solenoid).
F - FLD terminal on alternator.
S - STA terminal on alternator.

With the key on, engine off, a small bit of power flows through the I terminal(and bulb) into the alternator to "excite" it.
Once the engine is running, the alternator is producing power, which flows back through the STA terminal, which is used for feedback/loop current going into the FLD terminal.
A tells the regulator how much to increase or decrease output to maintain voltage at the battery(A good use of this is if you have a diode battery isolator - put the A terminal on the battery side of the isolator, and the alternator will boost the voltage into the isolator to match the ~1V dropped across it.
Rewiring now thank you
 

raydav

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3G alternators are a bolt-on replacement. The regulator is bolted to the alternator. It can be connected as one-wire, NO, you don't need to get a Chevy alternator. If you want a light - you should - then connect it as a two wire.

I have six vehicles that run. Five are 1984 or older. All now have 3G alternators.

The pics are my 2001 PSD. It has two alternators, one for the vehicle and one for accessories. There are two batteries for the vehicle and four for accessorizes. There is a relay that can connect the two systems. I have used the accessories batteries to jump start the engine.

The red display is voltage. The green is current from the alternator. The first pic is immediately after a cold start. The second pic is a few seconds later.

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Scrench

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This.... is not wired correctly.
On your regulator, you have 4 terminals: I, A, F and S.
I - should go through an incandescent bulb(dash light or marker bulb) to switched power. Without the bulb, you'll overheat the regulator and it will draw too much power with the engine off.
A - Feedback from alternator. Connect to the battery harness as close as practical to the battery(usually fender well solenoid).
F - FLD terminal on alternator.
S - STA terminal on alternator.

With the key on, engine off, a small bit of power flows through the I terminal(and bulb) into the alternator to "excite" it.
Once the engine is running, the alternator is producing power, which flows back through the STA terminal, which is used for feedback/loop current going into the FLD terminal.
A tells the regulator how much to increase or decrease output to maintain voltage at the battery(A good use of this is if you have a diode battery isolator - put the A terminal on the battery side of the isolator, and the alternator will boost the voltage into the isolator to match the ~1V dropped across it.


I wired it exactly like this gentleman instructed me to do and it's working flawlessly.
That's a fancy setup you have there it probably costed more than I gave for my rig. Thank you for the advice
 

Shane Kennedy

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No sir the guy at the zone told me that 100 amp would cause it to over charge so I just bought a new one
The new one wires differently my old one had a plug one wire on fld. A bat wire and a ground
The new alternator has a sta. A fld a ground and bat. Where would I wire the sta too? Thanks for everyone's help
B.S. The regulator should limit the voltage, not the rated power output
 

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