Wheel spacers to remove dogtrack

According to the manual I have, the front wheels on my 89' 4x4 F250 sit 1.25" farther out per side. Looks kinda funny when viewed from certain angles. I'm not sure why they are designed this way.

I had an older 2500 suburban that had the same thing, I put aluminum wheel spacers on the rear axle to even things out. Torqued them good, checked again after a few hundred miles. Put several thousand miles on them, lots of towing an 8500lb boat, no problems. I checked the torque every time I rotated tires and they never came loose. No change in handling.

Anyone put spacers on their IDI? Might have to trim the studs a bit, but I am seeing plenty of 1.5" spacers for sale.

Personally, I wouldn’t tow on wheel spacers but I’ve seen people do it successfully. Wider front track has better stability though. My wrangler that doesn’t tow has 1 3/4” wheel spacers on all 4 corners, no issues on it but that’s a different animal.


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Everyone says wheel spacers are safe nowadays. I don’t like them, and actually took off 1.25 wheel spacers from my yj yesterday.
My father-in-law law lost the front right wheel from his F100 pickup because of a wheel spacer fault. Luckily he wasn’t hurt, but still...

86 and up wheels are hub centered. as long as you get spacers that have the hub centering feature, you're good.
another thing you can do to push out your rear wheels is to put in a pickup dually rear axle and run singles.

towcat said:

86 and up wheels are hub centered. as long as you get spacers that have the hub centering feature, you're good.
another thing you can do to push out your rear wheels is to put in a pickup dually rear axle and run singles.

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Sure about that? My wheels are definitely not hub centric. They use the conical seat lugs to center.

renjaminfrankln said:

Sure about that? My wheels are definitely not hub centric. They use the conical seat lugs to center.

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100% certain. even though they use cone seating, the weight transfer is at the hub ring, not at the studs. bottom line, it's your truck, do what you want to do. when something goes wrong and the accident investigator hangs it onto you, deal with it then.

towcat said:

100% certain. even though they use cone seating, the weight transfer is at the hub ring, not at the studs. bottom line, it's your truck, do what you want to do. when something goes wrong and the accident investigator hangs it onto you, deal with it then.

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That only applies to stock rims. I've got a couple sets of "lug centric" chrome steel ones, with, well, 1/2" bigger center hole.

They've evidently been doing fine for years judging by the age of the rims(they came with one truck or another), so...

I personally prefer stock steelies; they seem heavier duty, and less likely to fail when scraping them against things.


As for spacers, we pulled a set of 2" or so spacers off my dad's 88 F-250, that had been DRW "converted" with those spacers a number of years before he got it. It was for hauling a massive camper, and evidently it did just fine(we bought it at an estate auction). Just recently converted it back to SRW - tires are expensive!

Macrobb said:

That only applies to stock rims. I've got a couple sets of "lug centric" chrome steel ones, with, well, 1/2" bigger center hole.

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That is what I have as well, and I went ahead and double checked, my wheel manufacturer (american racing) does indicate these non hub-centric wheels fit my truck. Also, all of my other trucks have been "lug centric"