My Turbo Tale

[mblaney]

After many years of anticipation I am finally prepared to install a factory ATS turbo on my truck. This is (was) a stock truck – the only “performance” upgrade was a Dynomax 19430 manifold–back exhaust system, installed last fall. I hate this exhaust system, makes more noise than the radio L. I needed to install a better muffler – or a turbo!

I recently picked up a complete low mileage turbo engine with a ZF5 so this should be an easy upgrade. About 60 hours of prep work later I think I am almost ready for the turbo install this weekend!

Some history: I have done a lot of improvements for reliability and serviceability including an electric fuel pump, hydroboost, GP controller upgrade and move, new GP harness. I particularly dislike the mechanical vacuum pump so I deleted it and installed a Dorman 904-214 electric vacuum pump for the dash controls.

Pics – note GP controller on top right (cover is coming soon), no mechanical vac pump, new GP harness that passes in front of the intake (NA it is wrapped around the back).

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mblaney]

Before starting any performance mods the truck had a date with the chassis dynamometer at International Dyno in Ottawa http://internationaldynoauthority.com/. I was expecting 125 HP (at the wheels) and hit 123 on the first run. Subsequent runs all came out at about 104 WHP. probably explains why I was wanting the turbo.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mblaney]

Moving on, here is the donor with some new parts: Banks down pipe (you can see the chitty crushed one on the left), and a new wrapped crossover pipe from R&D.

You must be registered for see images attach

The spare pipes on the right are from the Dynomax kit (for extended cab). I will need to adapt the Banks downpipe to the Dynomax exhaust. Means I have a 4 month old Y pipe available...

My next project was to decide what to do with the CDR. I have the correct valve cover on the donor engine but I really like to keep crap off the top for serviceability. I like the idea of the Banks CDR mod using the IP gear cover so I made one.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The CDR itself I think will go where the mechanical vacuum pump was. This will make a very clean installation with lots of vertical separation from the vent and the CDR itself (so oil can drain back).

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mblaney]

Now I need a pyrometer. After a lot of research I decided to go with an Auber Combo-EGTS-P; this is a dual channel temperature and pressure. I opted for a red/green display (red for EGT and green for boost pressure). https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_26&products_id=703

You must be registered for see images attach

I work in a calibration lab so I was able to fully test the Auber sensors on a bench. Here is a look at that process:

The pyrometer was easy to check at ambient temperatures (not shown) so I stuffed it into a dryblock calibrator and checked it at 1000F (top display in red). Not too bad! At the same time I also tested the alarm function - programmed on at 1150, off at 1050, worked flawless.

You must be registered for see images attach

Next was the pressure sensor. My plan is to only boost to 12psi; this sensor is good to 45 but I will only check at 15psi (bottom scale in green). I note that the zero is off by 0.2psi.

You must be registered for see images attach

At 5psi

You must be registered for see images attach

At 10psi

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mblaney]

And finally at 15psi (sorry for the crappy quality of the Paroscientific)

You must be registered for see images attach

The display has user accessible scaling parameters to match the display to the sensor. Re-verified at 10psi:

You must be registered for see images attach

Good enough for non-union work!

 

[79jasper]

Noice.
Iirc, aren't the auber USA made?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[mblaney]

This hurts (drilling holes and cutting). The Auber display fits a 43 x 43mm cutout (for you 'Muricans that is about 0.65 x the diameter of a beer can). This just happens to fit the empty space next to the WTS light.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The sensor installs were easy, 1/8 NPT into the driver’s side manifold… and I am the only guy around with a boost sensor stuck in an NA intake but that is a good placeholder for it for now

You must be registered for see images attach

And finally the gauge in operation showing 0 boost on an IDI. The Auber has an illumination feed so it will auto-dim with headlights. I plumbed that into the radio illumination line. So far I am extremely happy with the Auber kit.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[mblaney]

Noice.
Iirc, aren't the auber USA made?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I know the are in the USA, not sure where product is made.


More coming: homemade dipstick tube, final CDR mount, turbo install and merge with exhaust... and post-turbo dyno date.

 

[Thewespaul]

I was expecting the “tale” to be a depiction of how you scattered your engine with a big turbo

Some good progress you’ve made so far, looking forward to seeing how the engine performs after the completion, very cool being able to see before and after numbers with the dyno.

For the actual turbo install here’s a few tips. I like to install the bottom half of the upipe, then crossover, then downpipe, then install the turbo with the pedestal, intake hat, and top of the upipe already attached. The downpipe bolts can be a pain, I like to use a stud in place of the bottom bolt.

For the clearancing of the firewall do what you think is enough, then do some more, you cant have too much room, and it will help everything line up properly. Hope that helps.

 

[DougsOBS]

How did you do your vac pump delete? Debating axing the one on my dually

 

[mblaney]

How did you do your vac pump delete? Debating axing the one on my dually

Two things use vacuum; brakes and air control for defrost, floor, vent. Go hydroboost and you need very little vacuum. Buy the part I listed and install where you like. It is one line to attach for your dash controls.
Remove the mechanical pump and put a shorter belt on. Easy peasy.

Edit... not on my phone now so easier to type...

I am not sure what options you have on your truck (AC, etc) so your belt might be different that what I used (6pk2765).
I used AutoCad to layout the pulley locations (with and without the vacuum pump) and calculated the change in length. I used this site to find the closest belt http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog-1?part_type=20&length_search=110&num_ribs=6

I also changed the tensioner pulley from 76mm to a slightly smaller one. I am not totally happy with the fit yet - it is very difficult to put on. I think I will switch to a longer belt and go to a larger tensioner pulley or more likely change the idler pulley diameter. I will post details and part numbers later but your truck may be different depending upon accessories.

 

[chillman88]

I'm loving the appearance and size of the gauge. Did you need anything not included in their kit or did it have everything you needed for the install?

 

[mblaney]

I'm loving the appearance and size of the gauge. Did you need anything not included in their kit or did it have everything you needed for the install?

I needed three lengths of wire, red and black for power, used yellow for the illumination. Kit is complete! You need an appropriate drill bit and tap for the 1/8 NPT.

 

[mblaney]

Didn't get much done last night, just fix a couple of things on the turbo itself. The turbo is in great shape, no play at all. There was strange hole in the wastegate actuator - looked like an electrical burn. Cleaned it up and sealed.

You must be registered for see images attach

I also took the actuator rod apart. This is peened from the factory so it was a PITA to remove and destroyed the threads. I bought a 1/4-28UNF bolt and silver-soldered a new stub on.

You must be registered for see images attach

My lathe worked great to line them up!

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Well tonight is the night! Truck will be off the road until the turbo is installed.

 

[chillman88]

I'm curious to hear your seat of the pants results, especially since you already had an upgraded exhaust.

I assume you're going to dyno again after the install?