Steering ISSUE fix - Drag link roll causing dead spot

[mblaney]

Alright... time for a followup on this! Anyone complete their installation? Winter is coming so better get under your truck while the get'n is good!

 

[jwalterus]

Winter is coming so better get under your truck while the get'n is good!

It's not fun until you're by the side of the road in a snowstorm while the wind's howling and it's sub-zero.

 

[IDIoit]

ok FRACKERS!
you have had ample time to install these.
you have had 2 members here do you a solid.
one of these generous men made these,
the other slacker shipped them to you...
ALL FOR FREE.
the least you can do is post up about your install

 

[SirRea63l]

I feel guilty for not having done it, and a large number of other things to the truck. Between the heart attack, recovery from the heart attack, struggling to get my garden fenced, building the house, Momma insisting that I get the laundry room finished, baby goats being born and shopping for a vacation place in the NM mountains the truck has had to take a back seat.

It doesn't please me, I would rather be working on the truck but I have to prioritize and others prioritize my time for me. Yes, I do feel guilty

 

[nj_m715]

I know, I know, I've been taking care of the psd and ignoring the idi

 

[The Warden]

I'd like to second the request for feedback from installing one of these. I haven't made a decision on whether to go this route or to go with the Carrick Customs steering linkage, and it'd be nice to see how much of a difference this makes

For that matter, @IDIoit how's the Carrick Customs linkage working for you? I remember you had some teething problems at first, but how's it behaving now?

 

[IDIoit]

its solid Tim, but knowing what I know now, it really isn't worth it.
you can get basically the same set up from roughstuff
for 1/2 the price.
the only difference is that CC they have both TRE's the same without the drag link, link.
and rough has the drag link hole in the TRE.

but the roughstuff needs to be tig welded...
but if you bring beer ill weld it up for ya

 

[The Warden]

its solid Tim, but knowing what I know now, it really isn't worth it.
you can get basically the same set up from roughstuff
for 1/2 the price.
the only difference is that CC they have both TRE's the same without the drag link, link.
and rough has the drag link hole in the TRE.

but the roughstuff needs to be tig welded...
but if you bring beer ill weld it up for ya

I just might take you up on that we can talk about it in more detail (figuring out exactly which setup I need, etc) when we get closer to having the truck on the road...and, bringing beer is NOT a problem just need to know what your preferences are

 

[IDIoit]

corona and sapporro are my beers of choice.
another thing you must account for....
once you do this steering mod, there is no going back.
to fit the 1ton TRE's the knuckles must be reamed out.

 

[The Warden]

corona and sapporro are my beers of choice.
another thing you must account for....
once you do this steering mod, there is no going back.
to fit the 1ton TRE's the knuckles must be reamed out.

Yep! That's my big concern...and why I'm asking so many questions and being so cautious about it all. I want my steering to be as tight as possible, but not at a cost of reliability or having parts that aren't easy to obtain over-the-counter. As long as the TRE's and any other "wear items" are OEM for a "common" vehicle and can be gotten over the counter without difficulty, I'm okay with it...but, if it's for something obscure, or if it's a one-off, then there's a problem.

I want to be 100% certain of those things and that it'll actually work as advertised before making permanent modifications to my truck...

 

[mblaney]

ok FRACKERS!
you have had ample time to install these.
you have had 2 members here do you a solid.
one of these generous men made these,
the other slacker shipped them to you...
ALL FOR FREE.
the least you can do is post up about your install

^^^ What he said!

 

[SirRea63l]

I am finally getting a chance to work on this, so many projects going on, but I need a break from house building.

Here is my first minor issue, before proceeding to cut the spacer down I thought I would run it by everyone. These are brand new Moog parts.

The Moog does not have the lip on it, so the recess on the spacer does not have anything to go over.

Second, the spacer is too thick to allow the Nut to be tightened enough to get the cotter pin in. I know normally you remove material from the beveled side and not the recessed side, but since the recess does not have anything to go over should I remove that recess?
Yes, I will remove the sawdust from it before assembly.

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[IDIoit]

about ******* time....
I still have a few left BTW.

 

[SirRea63l]

The past year has been ******* this old man, the kicking off from the widowmaker put a severe hamper on my plans. This poor old truck has been sitting a lot, so has its owner.

 

[79jasper]

its solid Tim, but knowing what I know now, it really isn't worth it.
you can get basically the same set up from roughstuff
for 1/2 the price.
the only difference is that CC they have both TRE's the same without the drag link, link.
and rough has the drag link hole in the TRE.

but the roughstuff needs to be tig welded...
but if you bring beer ill weld it up for ya

Newb question. Lol
Could a person ream it out by hand?
I also noticed the roughstuff one mentions you may have to bend it. Well, put a curve in it to clear the diff.

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