Leaking return system, ideas?

[towcat]

Wow, that went by like perfume at a party...to fast for me to catch anything but a whiff!

I'll have to sit here and pick that one apart...but sound cool! Thanks.

BTW, how is the pizza in California? It took me a long time to find decent pie here in the south..(i'm from NY originally so i'm biased..)

i'm not from NYC but worked there for 6months. here's how I get my fix....... http://www.asliceofny.com/sanjose/menu/

 

[dunk]

They the check valve/duck bill thing back on the return fitting on the pickup. Forgot to put it on when I put the new tank in... Don't expect any miracles from it.

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[dunk]

No difference from the piece on the return line in tank. Also found a definite leak at back of the hard return from the pump. Was sure that was gonna be it, but sealed now but still bleeding down and hard to start after sitting 15 mins. Took the truck for a drive and filled it since the tanks were nearly empty. Maybe I'll get lucky. Gonna check the feed side and isolate that as suggested. I'll probably resign myself to waiting on o-rings and just replace the block heater for now, it needs to be done.

Either way performance is night and day, particularly off idle and lower speed/RPM response. I'll be thrilled with it once I get it to start easy.

 

[Bart F-350]

Just a question, some posts before mentioned "Olives", apart from them beeing used on pizza's, what are they (used in this connection?)

Thanks for explaining.

 

[IDIoit]

Just a question, some posts before mentioned "Olives", apart from them beeing used on pizza's, what are they (used in this connection?)

Thanks for explaining.

lift pump tube fitting to -6 AN w/ 6 AN x 3/8 NPT into fuel filter = 1 olive gone.
-6 AN x 3/8" NPT out of the fuel filter w/ -6AN x 1/2" NMPT into IP = 3 olives gone

1/8" NPT x 1/4" barb fitting out of the return orifice at top of IP- to #2 cylinder return line cap= 4 olives gone

back return line manifold (where line from IP returned to back of engine) deleted.
1/8" NPT T w/ 2- 1/4" NPT/barb for return lines.
and 1 5/16" barb to return to tank.

total of 5 olives deleted. all now AN fittings with steel braided fuel line
if turbo, use Russ(Typ4)'s or CDI turbo oil feed line = -4 AN??

now 7 olives deleted.

no more olives, except on my pizza!

olives are a seal IH used on fuel connections.
this should clear it up...

 

[Bart F-350]

are those the seals on the plastic lines like at the connection to the tank selector valve and the tank itself?

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Olive seals are inside the fittings that connect the hard lines to the filter head and the supply line to the injection pump. There may be others elsewhere but I'm not sure.

 

[dunk]

Replaced the easy to get to pass side injector orings with new viton. Slathered probably more vaseline than needed on them, was not stingy. Started truck and let it run a bit to burp the air, started after sitting a min or two and let it run a min. Let it sit 15 mins and it fired right up, no air. Cautiously optimistic, I'll let it sit longer and see what it does but this is an improvement for sure. Was gonna do the other side but the "blizzard" has started again and don't feel like either working outside or working with garage door open. If it's fixed I'll leave it be, if not I'll do the other side tomorrow when I'm nice and warm after shoveling.

Upon close inspection two of the removed o-rings have very tiny nicks in them (insufficient lube on install maybe) and one has a manufacturing anomaly (very small bump right on outside sealing surface). Also the o-rings I replaced them with seem to have smaller or less noticeable molding flash at the area where the mold halves meet. Not worried about it, just hoping I can start driving the truck and enjoy my new pump.

 

[dunk]

After replacing all orings and installing with plenty of vaseline the situation seems to be greatly improved but not resolved. Starts immediately after sitting 15 mins, seems to start normally after sitting 24 hrs or less. I thought it was fixed, but tried to start it today after it sat for two days and it started and immediately stalled twice, the third attempt it kept running. Not sure if I should be going over the return lines on engine (again) or replacing o-rings/seals/hose/etc. under the truck and at the tanks since that has been disturbed.

 

[IDIoit]

After replacing all orings and installing with plenty of vaseline the situation seems to be greatly improved but not resolved. Starts immediately after sitting 15 mins, seems to start normally after sitting 24 hrs or less. I thought it was fixed, but tried to start it today after it sat for two days and it started and immediately stalled twice, the third attempt it kept running. Not sure if I should be going over the return lines on engine (again) or replacing o-rings/seals/hose/etc. under the truck and at the tanks since that has been disturbed.

did you replace all rubber lines under the truck?
FSV?
did you attempt to purge the system inbetween cranks?

 

[dunk]

The rubber/nylon lines under the truck are original 30 yrs old as are the fittings. I used new clips when pulling tanks, but that's it

Have done nothing with FSV except a little push/twist the lines to ensure they are fully seated, snug, and dry.

Did not purge this morning between start attempts. Haven't made any attempt to purge air since I had all the return caps and lines off. Do you think this could just be working out small amounts remaining in high spots? Started truck just a bit ago, maybe 7 hours after this morning, and it stared fine first try.