Anyone run Rotella 15w40

[Hydro-idi]

When I first bought my truck, I used rotella on the first oil change and it disappeared fairly quickly. Then I switched to supertech 15w-40 from walmart and the consumption went down but the engine was still burning oil. Then I decided to take some friendly advice and add a couple bottles of auto-rx and my oil consumption is almost gone. My engine went from burning a quart every 500 miles to now burning a quart every 1500 miles. I am hoping the second treatment of auto-rx will continue to decrease oil consumption.
I would recommend using any diesel motor oil besides rotella. It will come down to how much you want to spend for oil.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Been running synthetic 5w-40 Rotella in the Ford in my sig line for years. It would leak 2 qts over 5K miles from dried out valve cover gaskets but no issues of burning it worse than any other oil.

Nick

 

[McGIDI]

thank you guys so anything good besides rotella. i think im gonna look in delo

 

[RLDSL]

Delo would be a good choice . It works very well in older diesels and handles high heat well without burning off.
While I am one of the worlds biggest fans of Amsoil ( been using and selling the stuff for over 35 years and have installed more bypass systems than most folks have probably ever seen I would not recommend dropping it right in. You would most likely have unhappy results. I would strongly recommend runing a couple treatments of Auto Rx through the thing while running Delo first to get the insides of your engine completely cleaned out , to where your rings are fully clean and freed up and your seals are all clean and conditioned and not leaking, THEN your engine would be ready to convert to Amsoil.
The 15w-40 diesel and marine has a 25k mile change interval in our engines when used in normal service, 15k severe service, this is WITHOUT a bypass filter. When used with the PSD size Amsoil full flow filter ( which , by the way, filters down finer than many so called bypass filters) you can leave the same filter on teh whole time as that filter is rated for 25k service( and is the only filter made built to run that long, do not try it with any other or they WILL clog and go into internal bypass, i.e. run unfiltered oil through your engine )
With testing , you can run longer, and with bypass filtration, the sky is the limit. I run the 15w-40 diesel and marine with bypass filtration and havent changed my oil in over 80k miles . Last test was at around 70k and everything was fine. My engine consumes oil at the rate of about 2 qts every 5k miles or roughly the same as an engine where someone doesnt ever have to add any between 5000 mile changes, it just so happens that at that point, I keep going so I cant be one of those liars who says my engine *never* uses any oil, because I must top off and continue on for the next 5k miles

 

[idiabuse]

Delo would be a good choice . It works very well in older diesels and handles high heat well without burning off.
While I am one of the worlds biggest fans of Amsoil ( been using and selling the stuff for over 35 years and have installed more bypass systems than most folks have probably ever seen I would not recommend dropping it right in. You would most likely have unhappy results. I would strongly recommend runing a couple treatments of Auto Rx through the thing while running Delo first to get the insides of your engine completely cleaned out , to where your rings are fully clean and freed up and your seals are all clean and conditioned and not leaking, THEN your engine would be ready to convert to Amsoil.
The 15w-40 diesel and marine has a 25k mile change interval in our engines when used in normal service, 15k severe service, this is WITHOUT a bypass filter. When used with the PSD size Amsoil full flow filter ( which , by the way, filters down finer than many so called bypass filters) you can leave the same filter on teh whole time as that filter is rated for 25k service( and is the only filter made built to run that long, do not try it with any other or they WILL clog and go into internal bypass, i.e. run unfiltered oil through your engine )
With testing , you can run longer, and with bypass filtration, the sky is the limit. I run the 15w-40 diesel and marine with bypass filtration and havent changed my oil in over 80k miles . Last test was at around 70k and everything was fine. My engine consumes oil at the rate of about 2 qts every 5k miles or roughly the same as an engine where someone doesnt ever have to add any between 5000 mile changes, it just so happens that at that point, I keep going so I cant be one of those liars who says my engine *never* uses any oil, because I must top off and continue on for the next 5k miles

Hey how would you feel about adding an old style steel can AMSOIl bypass to an IDI?
I have a new in the box 30 years old Bypass kit with two elements.
Been thinking to mount it up and use it for 50,000 miles, should take about 5 years.
Best part I paid $.000 for it.

Would you feel confident it would work as good as today's EAOBP filters?

I would think it would work better as far as for diesel engines, catching soot.


Javier

 

[idiabuse]

When I first bought my truck, I used rotella on the first oil change and it disappeared fairly quickly. Then I switched to supertech 15w-40 from walmart and the consumption went down but the engine was still burning oil. Then I decided to take some friendly advice and add a couple bottles of auto-rx and my oil consumption is almost gone. My engine went from burning a quart every 500 miles to now burning a quart every 1500 miles. I am hoping the second treatment of auto-rx will continue to decrease oil consumption.
I would recommend using any diesel motor oil besides rotella. It will come down to how much you want to spend for oil.

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Cheap lubricant's cant hang out here, too HOT! they burn and are consumed by heat.
Along the way the carbon ruins your ring lands and cylinder walls and this is how we end up with taper and an engine that consumes more oil and fuel than it is worth...



Javier

 

[tanman_2006]

Delo would be a good choice . It works very well in older diesels and handles high heat well without burning off.
While I am one of the worlds biggest fans of Amsoil ( been using and selling the stuff for over 35 years and have installed more bypass systems than most folks have probably ever seen I would not recommend dropping it right in. You would most likely have unhappy results. I would strongly recommend runing a couple treatments of Auto Rx through the thing while running Delo first to get the insides of your engine completely cleaned out , to where your rings are fully clean and freed up and your seals are all clean and conditioned and not leaking, THEN your engine would be ready to convert to Amsoil.
The 15w-40 diesel and marine has a 25k mile change interval in our engines when used in normal service, 15k severe service, this is WITHOUT a bypass filter. When used with the PSD size Amsoil full flow filter ( which , by the way, filters down finer than many so called bypass filters) you can leave the same filter on teh whole time as that filter is rated for 25k service( and is the only filter made built to run that long, do not try it with any other or they WILL clog and go into internal bypass, i.e. run unfiltered oil through your engine )
With testing , you can run longer, and with bypass filtration, the sky is the limit. I run the 15w-40 diesel and marine with bypass filtration and havent changed my oil in over 80k miles . Last test was at around 70k and everything was fine. My engine consumes oil at the rate of about 2 qts every 5k miles or roughly the same as an engine where someone doesnt ever have to add any between 5000 mile changes, it just so happens that at that point, I keep going so I cant be one of those liars who says my engine *never* uses any oil, because I must top off and continue on for the next 5k miles

I like my amsoil kit, my engine only had ~60K miles of light duty service (no receiver hitch, no ball in bumper, and no trailer lights) when I got it. Ran 2 changes with samples @5k on regular oil and both time it came back fairly clean so I decided I was in proper condition for AMSoil. When I get near 30K miles something usually breaks on my truck so I just change the oil to make myself feel better. Twice I've had high silicon levels. The first time was the crappy early GM flat panel filter no sealing and erroding the seal surface, upgraded the intake to severe duty GM filter and problem solved. 2 changes later it happened again due to bad intake boots, new boots and last oil change was cleanish @40K.

I find the FS filter bases in junk yards and take them into the local semi shop and try on filter and compare specs until I find one that is acceptable. I never have tried my amsoil filter on one, I should just to see if it would work. My system T's into the oil pressure port and drains back into the pan through a bung welded in or a modified oil fill tube (depends if the engine has had the pan off since I owned it).

 

[jim_22]

Wow, another bashing the oil thread. Do you really think there is any difference between the Chevron, Mobil, or Shell diesel-grade oil? I buy what is cheapest and have NO consumption in well used Mercedes, my IDI, and Cummins (boat).

 

[Hydro-idi]

It depends on when you change your conventional motor oil, how you maintain your engine, and how you drive your truck. I know a guy who has almost 500k on his 2002 f350 7.3 psd and has changed his conventional motor oil every 10k miles......so far no problems other than the alternator and clutch throw out bearing going south. Those are 500k miles of heavy heavy towing too. IMO, use the oil you want to use. Change it when it needs to be changed and use auto-rx if your engine has been neglected in the past.

 

[warhog]

Wow, another bashing the oil thread. Do you really think there is any difference between the Chevron, Mobil, or Shell diesel-grade oil? I buy what is cheapest and have NO consumption in well used Mercedes, my IDI, and Cummins (boat).

There's more to oil than what doesn't burn any by the time you change it out...think of the stuff you CAN'T see.

 

[79jasper]

I haven't seen anyone mention Valvoline Premium Blue.
I like it, my truck liked it. (Valve cover leak stopped when I put it in lol)
And I'm talking the normal stuff, NOT synthetic.

 

[RLDSL]

Hey how would you feel about adding an old style steel can AMSOIl bypass to an IDI?
I have a new in the box 30 years old Bypass kit with two elements.
Been thinking to mount it up and use it for 50,000 miles, should take about 5 years.
Best part I paid $.000 for it.

Would you feel confident it would work as good as today's EAOBP filters?

I would think it would work better as far as for diesel engines, catching soot.


Javier

If those elements are the ones after they changed them to the drop in stacked compressed cotton disks , I'd install that sucker in a heartbeat. Youre running amsoil anyway, so you could run that bypass filter for an insanely long time. basically run it till it clogs up, there is no internal bypass on those things so they go till they clog, then its time to change, its pretty easy to tell when that happens, it wont get hot.
The spin on bypass is mostly a convinience as opposed to the mini lubrifiner style. The drop in style are a HUGE mess to change, and you have to wipe out the housing thoroughly and make sure to get all teh debris , that falls off teh outside of the filter when you pull it or it will go right back through the engine. With the spin on bypass the only thing you have to clean is the little spin on mount that takes a few seconds and you are good to go with the new filter, and they are not as apt to leak, also I would be a tad wary of the gasket on a 30 year old housing, but I'm pretty sure new ones are still available, if not, you can get an oring to fit from a CAT dealer.

 

[tanman_2006]

Wow, another bashing the oil thread. Do you really think there is any difference between the Chevron, Mobil, or Shell diesel-grade oil? I buy what is cheapest and have NO consumption in well used Mercedes, my IDI, and Cummins (boat).

The base stock is probably the same on all of the oils. The additive packages are not the same and that is what causes the differences.

 

[bab029]

I too used to run rotella, and oil consumption went WAY down when I switched to Mobil Delvac. I now run delvac and a Powerstroke filter (Either motorcraft, wix, or purolator)

 

[idiabuse]

Yep Drop in cotton cartridge, but no pic, !

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Dang Im itching to put it on, have an extra 2 qts to add when Im finished. I have everything to do this.


Javier